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Rhubarb Shortbread Bars

05.22.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Mother’s Day arrives, and with it, a tray full of breakfast and gifts: Coffee, an egg sandwich, and a set of oval measuring spoons, the kind that fit into tiny spice jars. The coffee is very strong, the egg sandwich is mostly ham, but the measuring spoons are just right – something I mentioned a long time ago would be nice to have, then promptly forgot about.

The Child wants to know what I want to do for Mother’s Day, and my answer is simple. Nothing. After months of meetings with doctors and therapists and school administrators and social workers, I want a day filled with nothing.

I receive one, and, eventually, find my way into the back yard, where the untended garden overflows with weeds and whatever chard the slugs and leaf miners have left behind, but also a large, healthy rosemary plant, strawberry plants covered with blossoms, and a vast, leafy rhubarb plant offering an abundance of green stalks.

I don’t want muffins, and definitely not cake or pie. I want little nibbles, cookies, while The Child announces she will be happy with anything I make from the rhubarb.

A bit of looking turns up several recipes involving rhubarb and cardamom, which supposedly  complement each other as nicely as rhubarb and strawberry. One recipe in particular intrigues me, for a cardamom-spiced shortbread with a layer of strawberry-rhubarb jam in the middle. The rhubarb and cardamom combination is intriguing, as is the technique for making the shortbread; the dough is frozen for a half hour, then grated into the pan.

I was looking forward to using my new measuring spoons, but they were not the new tool I needed at that particular moment. The recipe calls for ground cardamom, and although I had three – yes, three – jars of cardamom, each one was filled with whole green pods.

I set about laying cardamom pods on a cutting board, and smashing them under the flat end of a knife, then prying little black seeds loose with the tip of the knife. I don’t own a spice grinder, but I do own a coffee grinder, which seemed like it should serve the same function, so I cleaned it out by using one of the rare internet hacks that actually works. I ran a slice of sandwich bread through it, which picked up all the residual coffee grounds, then wiped it clean with a paper towel and ran the cardamom seeds through.

It worked like a champ. I used my new spoons to scoop the ground cardamom into the dough.

It smelled lovely. It tasted lovely.

The jam neatly solves the issue I have with my rhubarb, which is a green variety – very tasty, but not all that pretty to look at, which turns out to be somewhat of a limiting factor in using it. Here, though, a small amount of strawberries are used, enough to turn the rhubarb a pretty shade of pink, but not enough to overwhelm its tart, sprightly flavor. I made the jam while the dough was in the freezer, then cooled the jam quickly in the freezer while I grated the dough into the pan.

I made a couple of major changes to the recipe. First, I omitted vanilla from the jam. I think it would be a nice addition, but the filling is just perfect without it, too. (I left it out accidentally.) Second, the original recipe uses spelt flour, which I didn’t have, so I substituted an equivalent amount of all-purpose flour. It worked fine.

The Child and I both loved these cookies, and the entire tray of them was gone within a day.

The original recipe came from PBS recipes, which credits Dorie Greenspan, who adapted it from Julia Child’s Baking With Julia.

rhubarb shortbread bars

Rhubarb Shortbread Bars
 
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Author: adapted from Dorie Greenspan via Julia Child
Ingredients
Dough
  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons ground cardamom
  • a pinch of salt
  • 1 cup (two sticks) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
Filling
  • 2 cups chopped rhubarb
  • ½ cup chopped strawberries
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • 1 tbsp water
Instructions
  1. Make the dough: Sift all the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, cream the butter until smooth and fluffy. Add the eggs yolks and sugar and mix well.
  2. Add the dry ingredients mixture and combine the two until a soft dough has formed.
  3. Shape the dough into two balls, one slightly smaller than the other. Wrap in plastic and freeze for at least 30 minutes. (You can also make the dough well ahead of time, and keep it in the freezer until you're ready to bake.)
  4. Make the filling: Bring the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, and water to a slow simmer over low heat, stirring frequently. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rhubarb softens and a pretty, somewhat thick jam forms. Remove from heat and allow the filling to cool completely.
  5. Make the cookies: Preheat oven to 350 F.
  6. Remove the largest of the two balls of dough from the freezer and using the larger holes of a box grate, grate the dough directly into a greased 10 inch springform pan. Gently pat the dough into the pan.
  7. Spread the rhubarb filling evenly over the dough, leaving a little half inch gap around the edge.
  8. Remove the second ball of dough from the freezer and grate evenly over the top. The rhubarb should be evenly covered, but you will still see bits of filling. Lightly pat the top layer down.
  9. Bake until golden, about 30 minutes.
  10. Allow the cookies to cool completely in the pan before slicing into wedges.
Notes
The original dough recipe calls for one cup of white flour and one cup of spelt flour. The original jam recipe calls for a tablespoon of red wine and a teaspoon of vanilla extract.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cardamom, cookies, rhubarb

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam

08.26.2014 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

My garden is, for the most part, not really producing much again this year, even though I’ve conquered the slugs and the aphids and the cabbage worms and the thrips and all their various friends. I think partly the problem is that I put things in a bit too late, or in some cases, a bit too small. Another part of the problem is that I developed some bad habits last year, in my attempt to solve the problems I believed were plaguing my garden when the problem was, in fact, slugs.

For example, I had cut back on the amount of watering I was doing, in the mistaken belief that the mysterious problem in my garden was overwatering. This year, my strawberries started doing really well when I started watering them – sadly, a bit late in the season to get maximum enjoyment from our fresh strawberries. Still, The Child makes regular visits to the backyard and returns with a handful of bright red berries that she swears are the most delicious berries she’s ever eaten.

I’ll have to take her word for it. I’ve never gotten out there fast enough to get one before she does.

I planted the strawberries in their own special area, a spot that is suddenly sunny following the removal of two small trees that previously resided there. The berries are mostly for The Child, whose school nickname is Strawberry Girl. Alongside them, I planted rhubarb, mostly for me. I don’t have a rhubarb-related nickname, but I do love the stuff, and have fond memories of my grandma’s rhubarb plants and, mostly, her rhubarb pies.

The rhubarb grew like crazy: huge green stalks emerged only a month after I put the plant in, and though all the advice I found on the internet said not to pick rhubarb the first year you put the plant in, I realized that this was the same internet that told me I was overwatering when, in fact, I had slugs.

So, I researched a little harder, and asked different questions, and finally came to the conclusion that when a rhubarb plant is producing this much, it’s quite alright to pick some. So I waited for the rhubarb to turn its familiar red hue.

The rhubarb continued to grow – vast, leafy, green stalks. Stalks that never turned red.

I finally caught a glimpse of a bit of pink at the base of one stalk, and got all excited, and … nothing happened.

I googled some more and learned a fun fact: Not all rhubarb is red.

Green rhubarb, which is apparently what I planted – I should really stop reading the internet and start reading labels – isn’t very pretty, but it is crazy delicious, and I decided to resolve the prettiness issue by simply marrying rhubarb with its traditional partner, strawberries. Since all our strawberries are consumed as soon as they ripen, I bought a bag of frozen strawberries from Trader Joe’s, found a recipe for jam, and then broke open my three-year-old, never-used, Learn To Can At Home kit.

The jam recipe I chose was from Saveur magazine, and very easy to make and follow. I appreciate that I didn’t have to add any pectin, and the fruit cooked down and jelled just fine. The hardest part was not eating it all right out of the pot, because it’s so delicious that it’s hard to restrain yourself. It is all perfectly tart from the rhubarb, and perfectly sweet from the strawberries and sugar. The Child pronounced it fantastic.

As satisfying as the jam is – even using frozen strawberries! – there was an even more satisfying moment in making it. I took the jars out of the water bath and set them on a towel to cool as instructed, and moments later, heard the snap of a jar sealing itself, and then another, and then another. I made jam for the first time, I canned something for the first time, and I did it all correctly because it worked. Even with green rhubarb and freezer-case strawberries.

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam

 

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam
 
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Author: Sasha Chapman, Saveur Magazine
Ingredients
  • 5 cups rhubarb (about 1 1⁄4 lbs.), cut into 3⁄4" x 1⁄2" cubes
  • 2 cups hulled and quartered strawberries (about 1⁄2 lb.)
  • 2¼ cups sugar
  • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Instructions
  1. Combine the ingredients in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium-low; cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb breaks down and the jam has thickened, about 1 hour. To determine whether jam has set, place a small spoonful on a chilled plate; if the dollop of jam holds firm and doesn't get runny around the edges, it is ready for canning. If it runs, continue to cook for another 10 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, submerge three 1-cup canning jars, along with their lids and ring bands, in a large pot of boiling water and sterilize over high heat for 10 minutes. Transfer sterilized jars, lids, and bands to a clean dish towel. Fill each jar with hot jam, leaving at least 1⁄4" of space at the top. Wipe jar rims with a clean dish towel, place lids on jars, and secure ring bands.
  3. Transfer filled jars to a canning rack; place rack in a pot of gently boiling water so that jars are submerged by at least 1"; let boil for 10 minutes. Transfer jars, set at least 1" apart, to a dish towel and let cool, undisturbed, for 24 hours. To test that jars have properly sealed, unscrew bands and lift each jar by the edge of the lid; if the lid holds, the jar is sealed. If it loosens, jar is not fully sealed, and jam should be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks. Sealed jars will keep, in a cool, dark place, for up to a year.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // jam, rhubarb, strawberries

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

06.05.2013 by J. Doe // 6 Comments

The garage door at my house has barely worked since The Departure. It was not long after that event that one of the springs snapped, sending the door crashing to the floor with such a thud that the whole house shook. It took two handymen to liberate my car, which then had to be parked in the driveway until I could get door repaired – many months later, around the time the divorce was being finalized. Within a few months, though, the garage remote stopped working, resulting in, once again, my garage being unusable for its intended function. I was pretty sure it was just a dead battery, but I couldn’t seem to find the right size battery to replace it.

Somewhere in the midst of this, my dishwasher started giving me trouble – lots of it. This was a more pressing matter than the garage door, given how much I like to cook, and how many pans I seem to use when I do – as well as how many plates The Child seems to use for, well, everything. The dishwasher isn’t that old, and it was fairly high-end when it was bought, yet within a couple of years had stopped working. A repairman was called and replaced the control panel. They go bad on this model, he said.

Earlier this year, the dishwasher stopped filling with water, but everything else seemed to work – meaning that the cycles still ran and the heating element still heated up as though there was water, baking the food bits solidly to the dishes. Indeed, it seemed to do a better job with heating and baking than my oven. Maybe it was hoping I’d retire the oven, and wanted to apply for the  job.

I called the repairman back and he couldn’t find anything wrong with the dishwasher, but when he opened the intake valve, there was a buildup of crud from the pipes that was blocking the water. We turned the dishwasher on and no problem. The dishwasher worked fine for several weeks – right until the warranty on the repair expired, in fact.

I called a different repairman, because I thought the problem might be a blockage, rather than the dishwasher. This repairman checked and completely the water heater and the pipes, and pronounced each “The cleanest I’ve ever seen.” His assistant, meanwhile, checked on the dishwasher, the valves, the filters – everything he could think of. Neither of them could find a problem.

Of course, when they turned on the dishwasher, it filled up nicely, just like it was supposed to – and not like I’d been filling it for the previous few days, with a bucket of water.

It proceeded to work fine for another two weeks, until Mother’s Day. That day, The Child cleaned the kitchen before bringing me a cup of coffee in bed. We headed out to have brunch together, and the dishwasher was running when we left – and also when we came back. What time did you turn this on? I asked her.

Six o’clock, she said.

It was now noon. After six hours in my dishwasher, everything was baked on the dishes about as well as any kiln could have done.

I shut off the dishwasher and grumbled and decided that on Memorial Day, I would go out and patriotically replace my dishwasher – which I did. In the meantime, I resorted to running the old machine as  a manually operated dishwasher, by filling it with a bucket of water.

I felt a sense of relief as I bought the new dishwasher at the local home store, followed by a sense of accomplishment when I spied, on the way out, a pack of batteries the right size for my garage door opener. I grabbed it quickly, thrilled to have gotten two things off my To Do list in one day. At home, I replaced the battery, and optimistically aimed the opener at my garage door and …

… nothing.

I think you need to re-sync it, said my father.

I think it does not like me, I replied.

The following day, I had several people coming to my house in the evening, so before they got there, I rushed about tidying up. I cleared the counter of dirty dishes, loading them into the dishwasher, and – since I was in a hurry – simply turning it on. Fifteen minutes later, it dawned on me that I had not filled it with a bucket of water, so I went back to fill it, and discovered it was already full. As though it was working normally and not in need of replacement.

Just to spite me, I told my father.

This is resistentialism at its finest, he replied. Resistentialism, I learned, is a theory used to describe “seemingly spiteful behavior manifested by inanimate objects.”

I think we’ve moved beyond theoretical, I said.

One of the ladies who came over that night knew I like rhubarb, and brought me several large stalks from her garden. It’s funny how a small, well-timed gift can completely change my outlook: I went from being convinced the inanimate objects in my home were rising up against me, to being touched and thrilled at the generosity and thoughtfulness of someone I barely know, who remembered this little thing about me.

So a few days later, I woke up early, and made muffins. I don’t remember where I originally got the recipe for these, though I sure wish I did. The muffins and light and moist, with just the right amount of cinnamon accenting the tart rhubarb. I know a lot of people love strawberries with rhubarb, and it is good – but I like my rhubarb to be the star of the show, as it is here.

I’ve been reading various baking tips and tricks recently, and found a couple of them really improved the end result when making these muffins. First, sifting flour a couple of times before measuring it will result in a very light muffin. Second, and just as important, remove muffins from the pan immediately when they come out of the oven, and cool them on racks. If muffins cool in the pan, the steam cannot escape, and it it causes the muffin to become more dense and hard. Cooling them on racks prevents this. It made a huge difference – it’s totally worth the burned fingertips.

You probably knew all that, but I didn’t, so I thought I’d tell you – just in case.

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

 

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins
 
Print
Prep time
15 mins
Cook time
20 mins
Total time
35 mins
 
Author: Sprung At Last
Serves: 12
Ingredients
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups finely diced rhubarb
Instructions
  1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with baking cups.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt and whisk to blend.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sour cream, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla until smooth. Lightly stir the sour cream mixture into the dry ingredients with a spatula until the batter just comes together; do not overmix. Gently stir in the diced rhubarb. The batter will be thick.
  4. Divide the batter among the muffin cups, using the back of a spoon or a small spatula to settle the batter into the cups. The batter should mound a bit higher than the tops of the cups.
  5. Bake the muffins until they’re golden brown, spring back most of the way when gently pressed, and a pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes.
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Categories // All By Myself, The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, muffins, rhubarb

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