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Rhubarb Shortbread Bars

05.22.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Mother’s Day arrives, and with it, a tray full of breakfast and gifts: Coffee, an egg sandwich, and a set of oval measuring spoons, the kind that fit into tiny spice jars. The coffee is very strong, the egg sandwich is mostly ham, but the measuring spoons are just right – something I mentioned a long time ago would be nice to have, then promptly forgot about.

The Child wants to know what I want to do for Mother’s Day, and my answer is simple. Nothing. After months of meetings with doctors and therapists and school administrators and social workers, I want a day filled with nothing.

I receive one, and, eventually, find my way into the back yard, where the untended garden overflows with weeds and whatever chard the slugs and leaf miners have left behind, but also a large, healthy rosemary plant, strawberry plants covered with blossoms, and a vast, leafy rhubarb plant offering an abundance of green stalks.

I don’t want muffins, and definitely not cake or pie. I want little nibbles, cookies, while The Child announces she will be happy with anything I make from the rhubarb.

A bit of looking turns up several recipes involving rhubarb and cardamom, which supposedly  complement each other as nicely as rhubarb and strawberry. One recipe in particular intrigues me, for a cardamom-spiced shortbread with a layer of strawberry-rhubarb jam in the middle. The rhubarb and cardamom combination is intriguing, as is the technique for making the shortbread; the dough is frozen for a half hour, then grated into the pan.

I was looking forward to using my new measuring spoons, but they were not the new tool I needed at that particular moment. The recipe calls for ground cardamom, and although I had three – yes, three – jars of cardamom, each one was filled with whole green pods.

I set about laying cardamom pods on a cutting board, and smashing them under the flat end of a knife, then prying little black seeds loose with the tip of the knife. I don’t own a spice grinder, but I do own a coffee grinder, which seemed like it should serve the same function, so I cleaned it out by using one of the rare internet hacks that actually works. I ran a slice of sandwich bread through it, which picked up all the residual coffee grounds, then wiped it clean with a paper towel and ran the cardamom seeds through.

It worked like a champ. I used my new spoons to scoop the ground cardamom into the dough.

It smelled lovely. It tasted lovely.

The jam neatly solves the issue I have with my rhubarb, which is a green variety – very tasty, but not all that pretty to look at, which turns out to be somewhat of a limiting factor in using it. Here, though, a small amount of strawberries are used, enough to turn the rhubarb a pretty shade of pink, but not enough to overwhelm its tart, sprightly flavor. I made the jam while the dough was in the freezer, then cooled the jam quickly in the freezer while I grated the dough into the pan.

I made a couple of major changes to the recipe. First, I omitted vanilla from the jam. I think it would be a nice addition, but the filling is just perfect without it, too. (I left it out accidentally.) Second, the original recipe uses spelt flour, which I didn’t have, so I substituted an equivalent amount of all-purpose flour. It worked fine.

The Child and I both loved these cookies, and the entire tray of them was gone within a day.

The original recipe came from PBS recipes, which credits Dorie Greenspan, who adapted it from Julia Child’s Baking With Julia.

rhubarb shortbread bars

Rhubarb Shortbread Bars
 
Print
Author: adapted from Dorie Greenspan via Julia Child
Ingredients
Dough
  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons ground cardamom
  • a pinch of salt
  • 1 cup (two sticks) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
Filling
  • 2 cups chopped rhubarb
  • ½ cup chopped strawberries
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • 1 tbsp water
Instructions
  1. Make the dough: Sift all the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, cream the butter until smooth and fluffy. Add the eggs yolks and sugar and mix well.
  2. Add the dry ingredients mixture and combine the two until a soft dough has formed.
  3. Shape the dough into two balls, one slightly smaller than the other. Wrap in plastic and freeze for at least 30 minutes. (You can also make the dough well ahead of time, and keep it in the freezer until you're ready to bake.)
  4. Make the filling: Bring the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, and water to a slow simmer over low heat, stirring frequently. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rhubarb softens and a pretty, somewhat thick jam forms. Remove from heat and allow the filling to cool completely.
  5. Make the cookies: Preheat oven to 350 F.
  6. Remove the largest of the two balls of dough from the freezer and using the larger holes of a box grate, grate the dough directly into a greased 10 inch springform pan. Gently pat the dough into the pan.
  7. Spread the rhubarb filling evenly over the dough, leaving a little half inch gap around the edge.
  8. Remove the second ball of dough from the freezer and grate evenly over the top. The rhubarb should be evenly covered, but you will still see bits of filling. Lightly pat the top layer down.
  9. Bake until golden, about 30 minutes.
  10. Allow the cookies to cool completely in the pan before slicing into wedges.
Notes
The original dough recipe calls for one cup of white flour and one cup of spelt flour. The original jam recipe calls for a tablespoon of red wine and a teaspoon of vanilla extract.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cardamom, cookies, rhubarb

Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie

04.27.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Income taxes are due, so my almost-divorced friend throws a poverty party; I am assigned to bring a dessert. I remember seeing something somewhere about pies of the Great Depression, and a little bit of googling leads me to Paula Haney’s Hoosier Mama Book of Pie. I check it out of the library, read the chapter titled Desperation Pies, and have all the ingredients ready to make a pie on Friday evening for her Saturday party.

Friday evening, a text arrives, from a phone number with a San Francisco area code: Hey sweetie it’s Dwayne. How is your day going so far?

I don’t have a sweetie named Dwayne, in San Francisco or elsewhere, so I keep my reply brief: Wrong person.

He doesn’t believe me: U just sent me your number.

Nope, I reply. I’m Seattle, you’re San Francisco.

He agrees he’s in San Francisco, but wants to be sure: Did u just talk to me on the Sugar Daddy website?

I didn’t even know there was such a thing. Now I want to know more. No, I text back. I could use a Sugar Daddy, but I’d need one in Seattle.

Why.

Because that’s where I live.

Are you hot?

That’s a hard question to answer, I think, so I don’t. I qualify for Mensa, I tell him.

I like a smart girl, he says: Send a pic.

First, explain why you are a Sugar Daddy, I say.

I’m looking for a Sugar Baby, he says. I ask why and he tells me about his last sugar baby, the one who ended things after four years, so now he needs a new sugar baby, a sweet sugar baby.

I will spoil u rotten and give u a weekly allowance.

The last time I got an allowance, I was twelve, but I assume we’re talking about more than the five dollars a week I got then. What do you do for a living? I ask.

I own a construction company. What do you do?

I’m a Vice President at a global investment bank.

Why do you need a Sugar Daddy? he asks.

I don’t, but it sounds like a pretty good gig, and banking is tough these days, I tell him.

We chat for a bit longer, but eventually it occurs to him that I am not the person he’s looking for, or perhaps he just loses interest, but either way he stops replying.

I may or may not be hot by his definition, but my oven is not hot by any definition, so given the late hour, I abandon my plan to bake a pie. I’ll do it in the morning. I still have plenty of time.

Saturday morning, I sit and relax with a cup of coffee, and drive The Child to her appointment, and then – finally – go pick up our new microwave. By this time, I discover that Saturday afternoon has somehow arrived, and I have a pie to make. I assemble the ingredients, and turn on the oven, and only then, on my final read-through of the recipe, do I notice that a Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie is supposed to be chilled for at least four hours before serving.

This is a bit of a wrench in my plan to deliver a pie to the party that is still warm from the oven, but I will not be deterred: Desperation Pie will be served. I have taken one shortcut already, using a purchased pie shell, which  I pre-bake in the oven as I mix up the filling.

The pie itself is a simple affair, two kinds of sugar, a bit of flour for body, heavy cream, and vanilla. The recipe calls for a teaspoon of vanilla paste, but from what I’ve learned, vanilla paste is basically just the seeds from a vanilla bean, so I scraped out the seeds from two vanilla pods I already had, and used them. It worked out to about three-quarters of a teaspoon, but tasted just right.

The pie is not set when it comes out of the oven, but a little bit of internet research presented a plausible solution. I set the pie in an ice water bath to cool it rapidly, and hoped it would do the same for 1930’s recipe pie filling as it supposedly does for Jell-O molds – chill and set it quickly.

It worked!

Within an hour, the pie was nicely chilled and set and on its way to a party.

The food at the party was abundant, and all of it perfectly themed – tater tot casseroles, bean dishes, and hot dogs aplenty. The pie was a standout in the crowd, though – a custard pie richly scented of vanilla and notes of caramel. One of the guests called it Crack Pie, and that’s not far off. It’s so rich, though, that I was content to savor just one small, perfectly set, slice.

A few days later, another text arrives, but this time, I know the sender well: I cannot get over how good that pie was!

Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie

 

Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie
 
Print
Cook time
45 mins
Total time
45 mins
 
Author: adapted from Paula Haney, The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie
Ingredients
  • 1 single-crust pie shell of your choice
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ cup dark brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • two vanilla beans
Instructions
  1. Cut vanilla beans open lengthwise, and use the tip of a sharp knife to scrape the seeds out. You will have about ¾ tsp of vanilla bean seeds, put in a small bowl and set aside. (Save the bean pods for some other purpose, like vanilla sugar.)
  2. Pre-bake the pie shell according to the directions, and set aside to cool.
  3. Heat oven to 400 degrees F.
  4. Whisk the sugar, brown sugar, flour, and salt together in a medium bowl. Use your hands to break up any clumps, if needed.
  5. Gently whisk in the heavy cream; taking care not to beat too much, as whipping the cream will prevent the pie from setting. Stir in the vanilla seeds.
  6. Pour the filling into the prepared pie shell and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pie, and bake another 20-25 minutes.
  7. When the pie is ready, the top surface will be beautifully browned and bubbling vigorously; it will not look set.
  8. Set the pie on a wire rack to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least four hours before slicing.
Notes
If you have vanilla paste, you can substitute 1 tsp for the vanilla bean seeds.
If you are pressed for time, cool the pie for 15-20 minutes on a wire rack, then set it in a pan of icewater, as high as you can get without touching the rim, and place in the refrigerator to cool. This will reduce the time needed to cool the pie by about half. (Or, make the pie a day ahead, and save yourself some stress!)
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // dessert, pie, vanilla, vintage recipes

Bistro Chicken with Shallots

04.11.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When she was alive, my grandmother appeared to be behind her times, clinging to her old-fashioned ways of doing things; at home and by hand, she wrung every bit of useful life out of everything that passed through her possession. By current standards, she was a woman ahead of her time, who composted food waste, ate organic food she grew and canned herself, and wasted nothing, recycling and upcycling what she could, and passing along what she could no longer use to someone else, who could make use of it.

She taught me to darn socks, and to crochet lace to trim new curtains made from worn-out sheets; the yarn for the lace came from worn-out sweaters that she unraveled and wound into balls. There was no reason to use something new when you had something perfectly good that could get a job done, which is why I have memories of using a washboard and wringing out wet laundry through the rollers of her tub washer, then running with the dog between lines of laundry hung out to dry in the backyard. Her one concession to modern laundry was a dryer, that she only used during the winter, when clothes would freeze if left outside.

Some of the old technology she preferred, for the simple reason that it did its job better than any modern replacement could. Her cast iron skillet was one of these things; she picked it up for some insignificant sum at a yard sale, and used it for everything, and when she died, I asked if I could have it, and when the estate valued it at similarly insignificant sum, it was given to me.

Along with her pan, I inherited her values: using things as long as they are usable, and for the most part, this works quite well, being an economical approach to living. Modern manufacturing, though, means that it is often not economical to repair things, so using them as long as possible sometimes means using what you can of something and trying not to miss what doesn’t work any more. Our microwave died, feature by feature: the digital display stopped working, but the oven clock could be used for timekeeping; the glass plate was dropped and broke, but a regular plate placed into worked just as well.

The Child grew frustrated, and wanted to replace the microwave with one that had a glass plate and working display, but I held firm: A penny saved is a penny earned, after all. The microwave still served its primary purpose, reheating leftovers and popping popcorn – there was no real need to replace it.

And I was right about this, right up until the moment I wasn’t, one Sunday evening when I popped some mac and cheese into the microwave and pressed the button, ignoring the odd noise it made until I noticed the aggressive odor of something burning, something that was definitely not my late-night snack.

I turned off the microwave, which is built in, and learned some useful things. A child who thinks their house may be on fire can locate and evacuate four pets at a remarkable speed, even allowing time to call the fire department, who, if you’re lucky, will arrive at your home at a remarkable speed and, if you’re luckier, maneuver their hook and ladder onto a driveway shared by four houses without driving it across your front lawn the way every other neighborhood visitor does.

Of course, the lawn was not my concern when they arrived, it was the possibility that a fire was right now smouldering in a wall behind the microwave that I could not remove from its housing. The firemen graciously ignored the barking dogs in the yard and agreed that they would also sleep better knowing that whatever smoking was not going to erupt into an inferno later that evening, and carefully but quickly disassembled the microwave and removed it from the kitchen.

Where the microwave once was, there was now an empty cabinet, which is a nice thing to have, but since it neither reheats leftovers nor pops popcorn, I headed out a few days later to acquire a new microwave at one of the large home supply stores. I brought the measurements and the old microwave’s manual, and the salesperson informed me that getting something the right size would be a special order, which translates as: You are going to be without a microwave for three weeks.

As it happens, I was going to be without a microwave for longer than that, because when it finally arrived at the appointed time, it was entirely the wrong size.

This sounds like like a first world problem, and of course, it is, but the reality is that I live in the first world and it is a problem. I grew up without a microwave or, for that matter, a dishwasher, yet it has been many years since I lived without either of these conveniences, and my life is structured around having them, not cleaning the many extra dishes that must be washed when you cannot simply reheat food in the bowl from which you plan to eat it.

My grandmother could have had a microwave, and a dishwasher, if she’d wanted, but she didn’t want them and got along perfectly well without them for some ninety years, but that knowledge does not help me in my current predicament. What does help is this: Some evenings, I pull out my grandmother’s cast iron pan, and cook dinner in it. I marvel at its lightness – it is much lighter than cast iron pans you could purchase today – and at its perfect nonstick finish, the end result of years and decades of seasoning. It is a pan that could not be made in any factory, and that requires very little in the way of cleanup.

Mostly I use it for the kind of simple things she would have made, grilled cheese and eggs, but sometimes I get a little fancy. One evening I pulled out my copy of Patricia Wells’ Bistro Cooking, and gave her recipe for chicken with shallots a try. I loved the recipe’s utter simplicity, involving only one pan that everything is added to as the recipe progresses. The shallots are left whole, and acquire a nice sweetness as they simmer at the bottom of the pan, beneath the chicken. The shallots, tomato, and garlic cook together into a nice sauce, that can be mopped up with some nice crusty bread, if you have it, or poured over some rice or noodles, if you prefer.

I made some minor changes to the recipe, using canned tomatoes since I didn’t have fresh ones on hand, and omitting the flaming brandy step, because I’m not sure that my kitchen or my nerves are quite ready to have me playing with more fire at dinnertime.

My grandmother never went to France – in fact, she never rode on an airplane – though it’s always possible she watched Julia Child or attempted some French recipe she found in the local newspaper. But she would have been pleased that her old pan was used to cook it, and the next day, to reheat the leftovers, too.

Bistro Chicken with Shallots

Bistro Chicken with Shallots
 
Print
Author: adapted from Patricia Wells, Bistro Cooking
Ingredients
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 3 lbs chicken pieces, skin-on and bone-in
  • 2 cups shallots, peeled and left whole
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
  • 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
  • cooked rice or buttered noodles for serving
Instructions
  1. Heat a heavy skillet over high heat, and add the oil and butter. Season the chicken liberally with salt and pepper, and when the oil in the pan in shimmering, add chicken pieces and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Be careful not to crowd the chicken; you may need to work in batches.
  2. Reduce the heat to medium-high, and add the shallots and garlic cloves to the pan, as well as any chicken set aside if you browned in batches. Cover the pan, and let the chicken simmer, shaking the pan from time to time, until the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
  3. Add the tomatoes to the pan and simmer until the sauce is well blended, five to ten minutes.
  4. Serve the chicken on a bed of rice or noodles with plenty of the sauce spooned over.
Notes
If you feel brave, you can add cognac before adding the tomatoes. To do so, put 2 tbsp cognac into a small saucepan, and heat it for about 30 seconds over medium heat. Ignite with a match, then pour over the chicken. Continue with the remaining recipe steps.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, meat

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