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Spiced Carrot Muffins with Currants and Brown Butter

01.11.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Everything comes to an end, and in the case of this past week, that’s really for the best. It started off well enough, and I had all sorts of ambitions for things I’d get done: My to-do list was long, my vegetable drawer full.

 

By the end, the to-do list was no shorter and the vegetable drawer was still full, and even as Friday evening rolled around with time enough to do something about one of those things, I couldn’t find the list – it’s probably here somewhere, but I wouldn’t swear to it – and I had some awareness that me using a sharp knife at that moment was probably not the best plan.

 

In any case, I didn’t want dinner as much as comfort. The Child didn’t want either.

 

I flipped through The Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, which pretty much lives on my counter these days, and ran across these carrot muffins, which seemed like a good idea on several counts:  I had all the ingredients on hand; spiced, baked anything sounded really good at that moment, and at least three of the carrots in my kitchen would get used before they expired. So, on the Friday night of the week that I hope is not a sign of how the new year is going to go, I made them.

 

These muffins are delicious – buttery, light, moist, and spicy. Douglas uses a mixing technique I’ve not encountered before, layering the carrots and currants between the beaten wet ingredients and sifted dry ingredients, then folding the mixture just enough to blend. I’m not quite sure why, and if you happen know, please fill me in. The muffins didn’t rise quite as much as I expected them too, so I may have done something wrong (over-folded?). Still, I managed not to burn the butter, and render it a deep, nutty brown.

 

There is something comforting about a house that smells like melted butter, and there are times when breakfast is what you really need for dinner. So The Child and I watched Disney movies together, and scratched The Dog behind the ears, and ate muffins out of the oven on a Friday night.

 

 Spiced Carrot Muffins

Spiced Carrot Muffins With Currants and Brown Butter
 
Print
Author: Tom Douglas, Dahlia Bakery Cookbook
Serves: 16
Ingredients
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
  • 1⁄2 cup dried currants
  • 1⁄2 cup water
  • 1 3⁄4 cups all purpose flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 3⁄4 tsp cinnamon
  • 3⁄4 tsp ground ginger
  • 4 large eggs at room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 1⁄2 tsp grated orange zest
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • 3⁄4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 cup peeled and grated carrot
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line the muffin pan with paper liners and set aside.
  2. To make the brown butter, place the butter in a small saucepan over medium- high heat and cook until the butter solids are browned and smell toasty, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes or a little longer. Watch carefully so the butter does not burn. As the butter browns, the foam rises to the top and dark brown particles stick to the bottom of the pan. As soon as the butter is dark golden brown, pour it into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
  3. Combine the currants with the water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Simmer until the currants are plump, about 10 minutes. Remove the currants from the heat, drain, and transfer to a small bowl to cool to room temperature.
  4. Into a bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and ginger together twice, then set the dry ingredients aside.
  5. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the eggs, sugar, orange zest, vanilla, and salt. Using the whisk attachment, whip on medium- high speed until thick and pale, about 3 minutes.
  6. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Without stirring, place the carrots and currants on top of the egg mixture. Then pour the dry ingredients on top and, using a rubber spatula, gently fold everything together. Finally, fold in the browned butter, combining everything thoroughly but gently.
  7. Scoop the muffins into the paper- lined muffin cups, dividing it evenly, using about 3 ounces, or about 1 ⁄3 cup, of batter per muffin.
  8. Bake until the muffins are cooked through and golden, about 18 minutes, rotating the pan once halfway through the baking time. A wooden skewer inserted into a muffin should come out with a few crumbs clinging but no batter.
  9. Remove the pan from the oven and cool on a wire rack about 10 minutes before unmolding.
Notes
Douglas suggests grating the carrot use the largest holes of a box grater. I have no idea where my box grater is or if I still own one. I used the grating disc of my Cuisinart. Douglas also suggests sprinkling the top of each muffin with sanding sugar and salt before baking, which I didn't do, but would be a very nice touch.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, carrots, currants, muffins

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

06.05.2013 by J. Doe // 6 Comments

The garage door at my house has barely worked since The Departure. It was not long after that event that one of the springs snapped, sending the door crashing to the floor with such a thud that the whole house shook. It took two handymen to liberate my car, which then had to be parked in the driveway until I could get door repaired – many months later, around the time the divorce was being finalized. Within a few months, though, the garage remote stopped working, resulting in, once again, my garage being unusable for its intended function. I was pretty sure it was just a dead battery, but I couldn’t seem to find the right size battery to replace it.

Somewhere in the midst of this, my dishwasher started giving me trouble – lots of it. This was a more pressing matter than the garage door, given how much I like to cook, and how many pans I seem to use when I do – as well as how many plates The Child seems to use for, well, everything. The dishwasher isn’t that old, and it was fairly high-end when it was bought, yet within a couple of years had stopped working. A repairman was called and replaced the control panel. They go bad on this model, he said.

Earlier this year, the dishwasher stopped filling with water, but everything else seemed to work – meaning that the cycles still ran and the heating element still heated up as though there was water, baking the food bits solidly to the dishes. Indeed, it seemed to do a better job with heating and baking than my oven. Maybe it was hoping I’d retire the oven, and wanted to apply for the  job.

I called the repairman back and he couldn’t find anything wrong with the dishwasher, but when he opened the intake valve, there was a buildup of crud from the pipes that was blocking the water. We turned the dishwasher on and no problem. The dishwasher worked fine for several weeks – right until the warranty on the repair expired, in fact.

I called a different repairman, because I thought the problem might be a blockage, rather than the dishwasher. This repairman checked and completely the water heater and the pipes, and pronounced each “The cleanest I’ve ever seen.” His assistant, meanwhile, checked on the dishwasher, the valves, the filters – everything he could think of. Neither of them could find a problem.

Of course, when they turned on the dishwasher, it filled up nicely, just like it was supposed to – and not like I’d been filling it for the previous few days, with a bucket of water.

It proceeded to work fine for another two weeks, until Mother’s Day. That day, The Child cleaned the kitchen before bringing me a cup of coffee in bed. We headed out to have brunch together, and the dishwasher was running when we left – and also when we came back. What time did you turn this on? I asked her.

Six o’clock, she said.

It was now noon. After six hours in my dishwasher, everything was baked on the dishes about as well as any kiln could have done.

I shut off the dishwasher and grumbled and decided that on Memorial Day, I would go out and patriotically replace my dishwasher – which I did. In the meantime, I resorted to running the old machine as  a manually operated dishwasher, by filling it with a bucket of water.

I felt a sense of relief as I bought the new dishwasher at the local home store, followed by a sense of accomplishment when I spied, on the way out, a pack of batteries the right size for my garage door opener. I grabbed it quickly, thrilled to have gotten two things off my To Do list in one day. At home, I replaced the battery, and optimistically aimed the opener at my garage door and …

… nothing.

I think you need to re-sync it, said my father.

I think it does not like me, I replied.

The following day, I had several people coming to my house in the evening, so before they got there, I rushed about tidying up. I cleared the counter of dirty dishes, loading them into the dishwasher, and – since I was in a hurry – simply turning it on. Fifteen minutes later, it dawned on me that I had not filled it with a bucket of water, so I went back to fill it, and discovered it was already full. As though it was working normally and not in need of replacement.

Just to spite me, I told my father.

This is resistentialism at its finest, he replied. Resistentialism, I learned, is a theory used to describe “seemingly spiteful behavior manifested by inanimate objects.”

I think we’ve moved beyond theoretical, I said.

One of the ladies who came over that night knew I like rhubarb, and brought me several large stalks from her garden. It’s funny how a small, well-timed gift can completely change my outlook: I went from being convinced the inanimate objects in my home were rising up against me, to being touched and thrilled at the generosity and thoughtfulness of someone I barely know, who remembered this little thing about me.

So a few days later, I woke up early, and made muffins. I don’t remember where I originally got the recipe for these, though I sure wish I did. The muffins and light and moist, with just the right amount of cinnamon accenting the tart rhubarb. I know a lot of people love strawberries with rhubarb, and it is good – but I like my rhubarb to be the star of the show, as it is here.

I’ve been reading various baking tips and tricks recently, and found a couple of them really improved the end result when making these muffins. First, sifting flour a couple of times before measuring it will result in a very light muffin. Second, and just as important, remove muffins from the pan immediately when they come out of the oven, and cool them on racks. If muffins cool in the pan, the steam cannot escape, and it it causes the muffin to become more dense and hard. Cooling them on racks prevents this. It made a huge difference – it’s totally worth the burned fingertips.

You probably knew all that, but I didn’t, so I thought I’d tell you – just in case.

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

 

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins
 
Print
Prep time
15 mins
Cook time
20 mins
Total time
35 mins
 
Author: Sprung At Last
Serves: 12
Ingredients
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups finely diced rhubarb
Instructions
  1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with baking cups.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt and whisk to blend.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sour cream, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla until smooth. Lightly stir the sour cream mixture into the dry ingredients with a spatula until the batter just comes together; do not overmix. Gently stir in the diced rhubarb. The batter will be thick.
  4. Divide the batter among the muffin cups, using the back of a spoon or a small spatula to settle the batter into the cups. The batter should mound a bit higher than the tops of the cups.
  5. Bake the muffins until they’re golden brown, spring back most of the way when gently pressed, and a pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes.
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Categories // All By Myself, The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, muffins, rhubarb

Hot Cross Muffins

03.31.2013 by J. Doe // 4 Comments

Growing up in Manhattan in the 1970s-80s, there were a couple of things we ate for breakfast on the weekends, neither of which my mother cooked because, well, my mother didn’t really cook much. On the weekend, she would send me out with some money and tell me to go pick something up and bring it home for breakfast.

The first goal was always bagels, from the local bagel shop – hubcap sized and smeared with cream cheese and lox. But the line for the bagel place was often out the door and that was on a good day: If you got there too late, the line was out the door and halfway up the street.

These days, I would get on that line and wait for one of those bagels, but back in the day I could get one any old day – I could even have one for lunch, since it was right near my school – so the line seemed hardly worth the trouble.

On those days, I would take the money to the supermarket and pick up something from Entenmann’s. Now, I know what you’re thinking: Entenmann’s? The ones on the supermarket shelf next to the Hostess chocolate-covered donuts?

Well, yes and no. The box was the same, sure. But the Entenmann’s that I grew up on was a family-owned company that baked their danishes and coffee cakes locally (the company was sold to General Foods in 1982). It was fresh and delicious and sometimes, just sometimes, I could get this one amazing thing: Hot Cross Buns.

They came in little packs of nine square buns, with a tic-tac-toe of frosting on the top and delightful little bits of citron hiding inside. I loved how flavorful and yet not-too-sweet they were. I was always a bit sad when I went on an Entenmann’s run and couldn’t find the Hot Cross Buns, which was more often than not; but then it was a pleasant surprise when they appeared again on the shelves.

Only as an adult did I discover the significance of the crosses on the buns, and realize that, yes, they were a seasonal item for Easter.

It made sense when it was pointed out to me.

Anyway, by the time I figured it out, Entenmann’s had changed somehow and though I couldn’t really put my finger on what was different about it, I started avoiding it. The crumb coffee cake – another favorite – lightened up and became less flavorful, less satisfying. I stopped seeing the hot cross buns at all, though possibly I just didn’t remember to look for them at the right time of year.

I’m not a bread baker, so I was pleased to find a recipe for Hot Cross Muffins in my King Arthur Flour Baker’s Companion. The taste of the original without all the effort of making yeast-raised buns, said the recipe, so I tried it.

I wanted them to be the best effort possible, to resemble my childhood treat, so I made some Candied Orange Peel a few days ahead, to use in lieu of the citron. I used very cheap oranges from Target’s produce department (perhaps not the finest produce department I’ve ever seen), and though they came out a bit small and sad-looking, they were quite flavorful.

The muffins were very close to the hot cross buns I remember from my childhood – perhaps not quite as light a texture as the original, but I think a bit of flour-sifting might resolve that issue. I loved all the plump raisins and sweet, chewy bits of peel. The frosting is dense and adds just the right touch of buttery sweetness to the muffins, which are not actually terribly sweet – meaning they were just right.

 

IMG_9494

Hot Cross Muffins
 
Print
Author: King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion
Serves: 12
Ingredients
Batter
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 3 cups AP Flour
  • 1 tbsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • ½ tsp ground nutmeg
  • ¼ tsp ground allspice
  • ½ cup candied citrus peel
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1½ cups milk
  • 1 stick (8 tbsp) butter, melted and cooled
Icing
  • 1¼ cups confectioners' sugar
  • 2 tbsp soft butter
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 1 tsp milk
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
  2. Batter: Mix together the raisins and water in a bowl, and set aside.
  3. In a large bowl, whisk together all of the dry ingredients. Make a well in the center and add the raisins and citrus peel.
  4. Beat together the eggs, milk, and melted butter, then add to the dry ingredients all at once. Stir until everything is evenly combined.
  5. Scoop into 12 greased muffin pans (or use paper liners). Bake for 20-25 minutes until nicely browned and a cake tester comes out clean. Remove them from the pans and allow them to cool for 5 to 10 minutes before icing.
  6. Icing: Combine all the icing ingredients in a small bowl and beat till thick. Use a pastry bag and tip to pipe thick crosses onto the muffins. (If you don't have a pastry bag, fill a sturdy plastic bag with the frosting, squeezing it down into one corner. Snip the tip of the bag off, and squeeze the frosting onto the muffins.) I used a ziploc bag ... it works fine. Not elegant, but still plenty tasty.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // holidays, muffins, recipes

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