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Veselka’s Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

06.07.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

The Child and I drive to IKEA, again. Two years after The Departed’s possessions were removed from our home, we’re still figuring out what to do with some spaces. This journey is for shelves that will fill the corner of the family room that his desk and piles of computer equipment once noisy occupied; the shelves will hold the books that were banished to the garage with the introduction of e-readers to our household, but are now being welcomed back with the realization that it’s nice to be surrounded by knowledge and pleasant memories. I find my old Dorothy Parker compilations, my childhood copy of the complete work of the brothers Grimm, and some forgotten, barely used cookbooks, bought mostly as souvenirs rather than with any intent of actually using them.

One of them is The Veselka Cookbook, from a Ukrainian restaurant in New York located not too far from where I grew up. There were lots of Ukrainian and Polish restaurants in the area then, because the neighborhood was full of immigrants who ran them and ate at them, along with high school students who discovered you could stretch your meager lunch budget quite far by filling up on potato pierogies.

Veselka is still there, but the last time I went, the rest of those places were gone. One particular favorite, Christine’s, had been replaced by a place that sells grass-fed beef hamburgers at prices that seem out of the reach of the average hungry student, but the school is no longer there, either, so it probably doesn’t matter much. I had a burger and it was quite good, even if it wasn’t what I was looking for.

If my Old School Friend and I still lived around there, I’d take him out to one of those places, and we could fill up on comfort food until 2am, talking all the while, and feeling satisfied and happy at the end. But neither of us is there anymore, and our hometown has been transformed into someplace “new,” a place that other people have reinvented into irrelevance, with trendy, award-winning, unsatisfying brownies.

I don’t remember ever eating Veselka’s Oatmeal Cookies back in the day, but it’s hard to mail borscht or pierogies, and in any case, cookies were promised. I send them off with a note of explanation and two jars of marmalade.

Two days later, a message arrives: I’m speechless, he says. Speechless and grateful and I realized you may be the friend I’ve known the longest.

Old friends are the best friends.

He rambles on a bit, telling me he’s turned a corner, but also that the arrival of an unexpected package reminded him of the last unexpected package he received, which contained his ex’s unopened birthday gifts.

It just takes time, I say. Time to feel better, time to redecorate, time to open those boxes in the garage and remember who you were when you bought the contents.

The cookies are quite good. Oatmeal cookies can be quite heavy, but these are – ironically for a restaurant that specializes in hearty, heavy foods – quite light. One reason for the lightness is the flour used; the original recipe calls for two cups of cake flour, which I didn’t have, so I substituted a blend of all-purpose flour and cornstarch, which works very well. There are also none of the usual walnuts; instead, coconut adds a bit of variety and texture.

If you make them, you’ll definitely want to use parchment paper underneath the cookies when they bake. They are too fragile to remove from the cookie sheet, otherwise, until they have cooled completely.

 

Veselka Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

Veselka's Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
 
Print
Author: Tom Birchard, The Veselka Cookbook
Ingredients
  • 16 tbsp (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • ¾ cup brown sugar
  • ¼ cup plus 3 tbsp sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1¾ cups all-purpose flour
  • ¼ cup cornstarch
  • 1 cup rolled oats
  • 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • 1 cup raisins
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350⁰F. Line several cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream together butter, vanilla, and sugars, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, blending until combined and scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions.
  3. Whisk all the dry ingredients except raisins together in a bowl. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, blending until fully incorporated. Fold in the raisins.
  4. Use a cookie scoop or tablespoon, drop cookies by rounded tablespoons onto the prepared sheets, leaving three inch spacing around each cookie. Bake until cookies are nicely browned, 10-12 minutes.
  5. Lift the cookies and parchment paper onto wire racks to cool.
Notes
If you have cake flour handy, use two cups of it, instead of the all-purpose flour and cornstarch.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cookies, oatmeal, raisin

Fruity Pebble Cookies

02.07.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When I first moved to Seattle, it was July. I stayed with a friend on the Peninsula for two months, commuting by boat to downtown Seattle beneath glorious clear skies. The weather stayed like that through the fall – never too hot, never too cold, and so little rain that I wondered how the city had earned its reputation.

I mentioned this at my office Christmas party in early December, and my coworker replied, wait until February.

I laughed, and he laughed.

By February, I was suicidal.

People in New York City in August like to says this whenever someone complains about the heat: It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity. I never said that, because in the first place, everyone says that so there’s really no point in repeating it, and in the second place, it’s both.

And so it is in Seattle in February: It’s not the rain, or the darkness, it’s both.

Every year, by the time February rolls around, I am ready to kill someone, and anyone will do.

It’s the little bright spots that see me through. When the sun comes out, even briefly, everyone who possibly can go outside, does. They beam with delight, they are happy to see you, and the streets are full of people either walking around puddles or splashing through them, and saying, isn’t it great? The sun came out!

It happens just often enough to keep me out of jail, but not enough to keep me from being a little too grumpy, a little too often.

I bake a lot this time of year. It’s what I do when I’m trapped indoors and in need of a little pick-me-up.

After my successful effort with English Muffin Bread, I thought it would be cool to make actual English muffins, so I started researching recipes and, in the way of the internet, discovered there was such a thing as Fruity Pebble Cookies. I have no idea how I got from English muffins to Fruity Pebbles, although technically, they’re both breakfast foods, so presumably that’s the connection.

My mother would beg to differ, of course. She bought me a box of sugary cereal exactly once – it was a box of Trix, and I had the flu and could barely taste them, but savored every sugary morsel like the manna from heaven it was.

My house now is full of rebellious sugary cereal, yet I had no idea I could bake with it. Cookies, no less: Little color-flecked pick-me-ups for grim, grey days. They’re not an indulgence, they’re a necessity.

You want to try these cookies. It’s okay if you don’t live in Seattle, or it isn’t raining where you are. I won’t tell.

Even the instructions of this recipe will make your inner child happy: They actually tell you to put a tablespoon of sugar onto two cups of Fruity Pebbles.

I will venture there aren’t many times in life when a college-educated, gainfully employed person will tell you to do this. Savor the moment, along with all that sugar.

The recipe is from Christina Tosi’s  Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook, which moves sugary breakfast cereal to its rightful place on the menu – dessert (another recipe included in the book is Cereal Milk Ice Cream and yes, it’s on my to-do list for warmer weather). Originally, the recipe also included mini-marshmallows, and I bought a bag of them, but then balked at the last minute. If you want to include them, add 1 and 1/4 cups right after you blend in the Fruity Pebble crunch.

The cookies were fun to make and smelled outrageously good as they baked. It’s a ton of sugar, but interestingly, even though the cookies are incredibly sweet, it is not in that obnoxious way – the sweetness seems to be tempered a bit, possibly by the additional of milk powder to the cereal.

The cookies spread a lot when baking, so you really do want to space them out well on the cookie sheets. You also really do want to let them cool on the cookie sheets for five minutes – they are incredibly fragile right after being taken out of the oven.

The Child liked these right after they cooled off enough to taste. The next day, I sent some in her lunch, and she proclaimed they were now Too Hard to Eat with Braces. I didn’t find them hard, but then I don’t have braces.

I put them in the cookie jar, where they kept nicely for a week, but did seem to disappear a little faster than I was eating them.

 

Fruity Pebble Cookies

Fruity Pebble Cookies
 
Print
Author: adapted from Christina Tosi, Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook
Ingredients
fruity pebble crunch
  • 2½ cups of fruity pebbles
  • ¼ cup of milk powder
  • 1 tbsp of sugar
  • ¼ tsp of kosher salt
  • 6 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
cookies
  • 16 tbsp (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1¼ granulated sugar
  • ⅔ cup light brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • ½ tsp pure vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups flour
  • ½ tsp baking powder
  • ¼ tsp baking soda
  • 1¼ tsp kosher salt
  • 3 cups fruity pebble crunch
Instructions
Make the crunch:
  1. Preheat oven to 275˚F.
  2. Pour the fruity pebbles in a medium bowl. Add the milk powder, sugar and salt and toss to mix. Add the butter and toss well to coat. Some small clusters may form and that's fine.
  3. Spread the cereal on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes, until toasted.
  4. Cool completely.
Make the cookie dough.
  1. Line a baking sheet which with parchment paper. Combine butter and sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream together on medium-high for 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the egg and vanilla, and beat on high for 7-8 minutes.
  2. Reduce mixer speed to low and add flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than one minute. Do not overmix.
  3. Still on low speed, mix in the fruity pebble crunch just until incorporated.
  4. Scoop out the dough in rounded tablespoons onto the prepared pan. Wrap entire sheet in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to one week.
Bake the cookies:
  1. Preheat oven to 350˚F.
  2. Arrange the chilled dough at least 4 inches apart on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bake for 10-13 minutes, until golden.
  3. Cool the cookies for five minutes on the sheet pans, then transfer to wire racks to finish cooling. (You can also just cool them completely on the pan - just don't move them too fast, or they'll break.)
Notes
The original recipe calls for 1¼ cups of mini marshmallows. If you want to include them, add them to the dough right after the Fruity Pebble Crunch.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cereal, cookies

Eggnog Cookies

12.12.2014 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

My grandmother, each Christmas, would make cream cheese spritz cookies. I loved getting them, a big coffee can full of cookies, with no wrapping except a holiday bow on the plastic lid. It was “something to open” alongside the checks she gave me and her other three grandchildren. Her spritz were formed from a cookie press into little circles, often not very neatly, because she made hundreds of them that time of year – and other times too – and gave them to everybody.

I have her recipe for cream cheese spritz and the cookie sheets she baked them on, but oddly, I don’t have the cookie press she used to shape them. It’s a shame because I cannot seem to form even her lopsided squiggle shapes very well with the press I do have, and so making these cookies became a source of frustration for me.

Her cookies weren’t fancy, but they tasted like Christmas.

In recent years, I hosted a holiday cookie exchange. I think I started it when The Child was about 6, and all my friends seemed to like it, so I did one every year, until last year, when The Dog’s deteriorating health made the whole thing just too stressful. One friend was quite disappointed, and left a plate of cookies on my door, saying, I look forward to next year – but this year rolled around, and I still didn’t feel like it.

The Child was disappointed. I didn’t mind missing one year, she said, but two? Will we ever do it again?

I tell her the women’s group I belong to is hosting an exchange, and so we’ll bring cookies and let someone else host, but she’s not satisfied with this. The women are boring, she says.

I point out that it’s a lot of the same women who came to our house every year, but that’s not the answer she’s looking for. What she wants, we discover after some discussion, is not a party at all: She wants my eggnog cookies. She wants some to eat, she wants some to give to her teachers and friends.

I don’t mind. I already have all the ingredients.

The recipe is originally from The Complete Cookie, by Barry Bluestein and Kevin Morrissey, which rather sadly seems to be out of print, though you can still get used copies on Amazon for not too much. I think I received the book as a gift the year it came out, or possibly bought it as a gift for myself when I was doing some holiday gift shopping (one for them, one for me …). Whatever the case, I loved it enough that although many cookbooks have come and gone from my shelves since then, it has stayed.

The Eggnog Cookies weren’t actually my favorite recipe from the book, but became my holiday cookie-party staple for one simple reason: unlike many holiday cookie recipes, they’re crazy easy. They’re just drop cookies, and require no refrigeration time, no rolling and cutting, no cookie press. There is no elaborate icing. There are no special, expensive, or obscure ingredients to buy. Basically, if you get just one bottle of rum extract, you can whip up last-minute holiday cookies for several years.

And yet for all this lack of fuss, these cookies still say Happy Holidays the way only eggnog can.

I made a batch one evening, supposedly for the ladies’ cookie exchange, and The Child came down and helped herself to several. They didn’t have their powdered sugar topping yet, but she didn’t mind: They were soft and warm from the oven. She swiped a few on the way out to school the next day, too, still untopped but still perfect, she says: We’re giving them to everybody.

 

Eggnog cookies

 

Eggnog Cookies
 
Print
Author: adapted from "The Complete Cookie" by Barry Bluestein and Kevin Morrissey
Ingredients
  • 2 cups AP flour
  • ½ tsp baking soda
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1 tsp nutmeg (plus extra for topping)
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick), at room temperature
  • 1½ tsp rum extract
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • powdered sugar
Instructions
  1. Preheat the over to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease two cookie sheets.
  2. Whisk flour, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg together in a bowl, and set aside.
  3. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs and sugar until smooth and thick. Add the softened butter, rum extract, and cream. Mix at a low speed until thoroughly blended, then increase speed to high. Add the flour mixture and beat until incorporated.
  4. Drop by rounded tablespoons onto the cookie sheets, leaving 2 inches between cookies. They will spread. Bake for 10-15 minutes, until lightly golden, delightfully fragrant, and firm to the touch.
  5. Remove to cooling racks and dust with powdered sugar and a pinch of extra nutmeg, if desired.
Notes
The original recipe calls for only 6 tablespoons of butter, so you may wish to reduce the amount you use. I tossed in a full stick by mistake but found that worked well.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cookies, holidays

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