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Johnnycake (Corn Bread)

06.12.2013 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

With her Rube Goldberg machine complete, The Child has two more weeks of school left. Her evenings are focused on projects for other classes, and she will spend a day in a study session at with a group of her friends. One mom hosts this event each trimester, and everyone contributes some sort of snack. This time, it’s on a Saturday morning, so everyone is bringing breakfast food, mostly of the unnervingly nutritious  variety. I ask The Child what I should bring, and she asks if I can pick up some mix and make corn bread.

Right.

I often do keep cornbread mix in my house, because either a) Thanksgiving is coming and I am using it in my stuffing or b) The Child has requested it and plans to make it herself. It’s not like I don’t have dozens of cornbread recipes I could use, which I tell her, saying, sure, I’ll make some cornbread for you.

I hunt through a few of my cookbooks and realize that although a have a lot of cornbread recipes, I’ve only ever made one of them: a recipe for buttermilk cornbread that I used in my Thanksgiving stuffing until I discovered that Trader Joe’s mix works just as well (I know – heresy). I finally settle on a recipe for Johnnycake from Metropolitan Cook Book, a 1948 booklet distributed by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company. It’s not big – only 56 pages – but it does manage to cover a lot of basic recipes (scrambled eggs, meat loaf), as well as a few things I don’t think I’ve even seen on a menu (liver-stuffed green peppers, prune souffle), and provide a lot of basic cooking tips and tables as well.

The resulting Johnnycake was not quite what I expected. I think of cornbread as a very light, sweet cake-type bread that crumbles easily and is is fairly thick. This bread, though, rose to barely a half-inch high, remaining very dense and with a crisp exterior – and not sweet at all. It has an almost chewy texture – it’s not hard to picture a pioneer eating a piece in front of his covered wagon.

It is hard, though, to picture teenage girls eating it in much quantity, and in fact plenty of it returned home after the study session was over. I had a piece with a bit of butter and honey, which was really nice for snacking on, since it didn’t crumble apart and make a mess the way cornbread generally does. It occurred to me that this cornbread would be a really nice accompaniment for chili or ribs – it would be great for dabbing up leftover sauce, since it holds together fairly well. I suspect the batter would work really well as corn sticks, if I had a corn stick pan.

I probably won’t make this again to be served by itself – but I do think next time I make chili, there will be a bit of Johnnycake on the side.

 

Johnnycake

 

Johnnycake (Corn Bread)
 
Print
Prep time
15 mins
Cook time
25 mins
Total time
40 mins
 
Author: Metropolitan Cook Book (date unknown)
Serves: 12
Ingredients
  • 1 cup cornmeal
  • ¼ cup flour
  • 1½ tsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ cup milk
  • 4 tbsp butter or shortening, melted
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Grease a 9 inch baking pan.
  2. Mix dry ingredients and set aside.
  3. In a separate bowl, beat eggs with milk. Stir into the dry ingredients.
  4. Stir in melted butter (or shortening).
  5. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from pan and cool on a rack. Cut into 12-16 pieces.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // bread, vintage recipes

Tuna and White Bean Salad

06.08.2013 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

I had to change computers recently, when my old computer started making strange whirring noises and mostly, working very, very slowly. I’m pretty sure it had some sort of virus on it, too, because the browser started acting strangely. Anyway, my father – who firmly believes I should rid myself of anything associated with The Departed – decided to replace my old computer, which was lucky for me, because things just zip along now in a way they never did before, and the world is a much prettier place when viewed on my new monitor. I’m slowly moving files over from the old machine, but it’s a tedious task: the old computer is very reluctant to give them up, and complains loudly when I attempt to. I’m moving only what I must.

This is a roundabout way of saying, I lost some stuff, and it’s not my fault.

One of the things I lost was a recipe that I had saved on my desktop, for Tuna and White Bean salad. It sounded like such a lovely combination, and perhaps more important, like something The Child might eat, because those are basically two of the only things she does eat.  I think the recipe may have included artichoke hearts, a favorite of mine, but I wouldn’t swear to it.

We’ll never know, because it’s gone, and several attempt to Google that exact recipe ended in failure – although I came up with numerous other similar recipes.

Yet again, though, I got lucky: I received a review copy of Hazan Family Favorites by Giuliano Hazan. Giuliano is the son of Marcella Hazan, whose Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking really transformed my cooking, with its simple recipes and clear explanations of what to do and why when cooking them.

I was pleased to discover that not only does Hazan Family Favorites have a recipe for Tuna, Bean, and Red Onion salad, but also that it is written in similar fashion to Marcella’s masterwork, with clear explanations of what you need to know to really get a recipe right.

In this recipe, Hazan explains, you really don’t want to use the bland water-packed tuna you probably have a can of on your shelves; rather, you want to use Italian olive-oil packed tuna, and if possible, the kind that comes packed in a glass jar, as it is typically the best quality. After a lifetime spent eating the American canned stuff, it was hard for me to get my mind around the idea of flavorful tuna, and harder still when I got to the store and found several varieties of Italian glass-jarred tuna, the cheapest of which sold for $7. Still, I bought it, and was stunned to discover that this tuna was moist and very, very richly flavored.

I made the salad as directed, with the minor modification of reducing the amount of olive oil from Hazan’s version, as it seemed oily enough after 2 tbsps – though this may have been a result of me not draining the tuna sufficiently, probably because I was too busy savoring it and trying to restrain myself from eating it straight from the jar. Use your judgment on the oil, that’s all I’m saying.

I offered a plate of the salad to The Child, who pronounced it delicious, and also observed that it was the first time she had ever eaten a fresh onion that she liked. Hazan recommends soaking the onion slices for 15 minutes to cut the sharpness, and I think this is spot-on; there is still a nice kick from the fresh onion, but they aren’t overbearing.

It’s a simple dish to make, but packed with flavor, which improves the next day. Hazan claims it serves four, which it might as a starter. It made two dinners and a lunch at our house.

Tuna and White Bean Salad

 

Tuna and White Bean Salad
 
Print
Prep time
20 mins
Total time
20 mins
 
Author: Giuliano Hazan
Serves: 4
Ingredients
  • ½ small red onion
  • 7 ounces canned tuna packed in olive oil, drained
  • 2 cups canned cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
  1. Peel the onion and thinly slice it crosswise. Put the slices into a bowl and cover with cold water. Let soak for 15 minutes.
  2. Place the tuna in a large serving bowl and break into pieces with a fork. Add the beans. Drain the water from the onions and pat dry; add onions to the bowl.
  3. Season with salt and pepper, add oil and vinegar, and toss to mix thoroughly.
Notes
I used ¼ of a large red onion, which was the only size available. I cut the amount of olive oil to 2 tbsp from Hazan's 3.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // beans, salad, tuna

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

06.05.2013 by J. Doe // 6 Comments

The garage door at my house has barely worked since The Departure. It was not long after that event that one of the springs snapped, sending the door crashing to the floor with such a thud that the whole house shook. It took two handymen to liberate my car, which then had to be parked in the driveway until I could get door repaired – many months later, around the time the divorce was being finalized. Within a few months, though, the garage remote stopped working, resulting in, once again, my garage being unusable for its intended function. I was pretty sure it was just a dead battery, but I couldn’t seem to find the right size battery to replace it.

Somewhere in the midst of this, my dishwasher started giving me trouble – lots of it. This was a more pressing matter than the garage door, given how much I like to cook, and how many pans I seem to use when I do – as well as how many plates The Child seems to use for, well, everything. The dishwasher isn’t that old, and it was fairly high-end when it was bought, yet within a couple of years had stopped working. A repairman was called and replaced the control panel. They go bad on this model, he said.

Earlier this year, the dishwasher stopped filling with water, but everything else seemed to work – meaning that the cycles still ran and the heating element still heated up as though there was water, baking the food bits solidly to the dishes. Indeed, it seemed to do a better job with heating and baking than my oven. Maybe it was hoping I’d retire the oven, and wanted to apply for the  job.

I called the repairman back and he couldn’t find anything wrong with the dishwasher, but when he opened the intake valve, there was a buildup of crud from the pipes that was blocking the water. We turned the dishwasher on and no problem. The dishwasher worked fine for several weeks – right until the warranty on the repair expired, in fact.

I called a different repairman, because I thought the problem might be a blockage, rather than the dishwasher. This repairman checked and completely the water heater and the pipes, and pronounced each “The cleanest I’ve ever seen.” His assistant, meanwhile, checked on the dishwasher, the valves, the filters – everything he could think of. Neither of them could find a problem.

Of course, when they turned on the dishwasher, it filled up nicely, just like it was supposed to – and not like I’d been filling it for the previous few days, with a bucket of water.

It proceeded to work fine for another two weeks, until Mother’s Day. That day, The Child cleaned the kitchen before bringing me a cup of coffee in bed. We headed out to have brunch together, and the dishwasher was running when we left – and also when we came back. What time did you turn this on? I asked her.

Six o’clock, she said.

It was now noon. After six hours in my dishwasher, everything was baked on the dishes about as well as any kiln could have done.

I shut off the dishwasher and grumbled and decided that on Memorial Day, I would go out and patriotically replace my dishwasher – which I did. In the meantime, I resorted to running the old machine as  a manually operated dishwasher, by filling it with a bucket of water.

I felt a sense of relief as I bought the new dishwasher at the local home store, followed by a sense of accomplishment when I spied, on the way out, a pack of batteries the right size for my garage door opener. I grabbed it quickly, thrilled to have gotten two things off my To Do list in one day. At home, I replaced the battery, and optimistically aimed the opener at my garage door and …

… nothing.

I think you need to re-sync it, said my father.

I think it does not like me, I replied.

The following day, I had several people coming to my house in the evening, so before they got there, I rushed about tidying up. I cleared the counter of dirty dishes, loading them into the dishwasher, and – since I was in a hurry – simply turning it on. Fifteen minutes later, it dawned on me that I had not filled it with a bucket of water, so I went back to fill it, and discovered it was already full. As though it was working normally and not in need of replacement.

Just to spite me, I told my father.

This is resistentialism at its finest, he replied. Resistentialism, I learned, is a theory used to describe “seemingly spiteful behavior manifested by inanimate objects.”

I think we’ve moved beyond theoretical, I said.

One of the ladies who came over that night knew I like rhubarb, and brought me several large stalks from her garden. It’s funny how a small, well-timed gift can completely change my outlook: I went from being convinced the inanimate objects in my home were rising up against me, to being touched and thrilled at the generosity and thoughtfulness of someone I barely know, who remembered this little thing about me.

So a few days later, I woke up early, and made muffins. I don’t remember where I originally got the recipe for these, though I sure wish I did. The muffins and light and moist, with just the right amount of cinnamon accenting the tart rhubarb. I know a lot of people love strawberries with rhubarb, and it is good – but I like my rhubarb to be the star of the show, as it is here.

I’ve been reading various baking tips and tricks recently, and found a couple of them really improved the end result when making these muffins. First, sifting flour a couple of times before measuring it will result in a very light muffin. Second, and just as important, remove muffins from the pan immediately when they come out of the oven, and cool them on racks. If muffins cool in the pan, the steam cannot escape, and it it causes the muffin to become more dense and hard. Cooling them on racks prevents this. It made a huge difference – it’s totally worth the burned fingertips.

You probably knew all that, but I didn’t, so I thought I’d tell you – just in case.

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins

 

Rhubarb Sour Cream Muffins
 
Print
Prep time
15 mins
Cook time
20 mins
Total time
35 mins
 
Author: Sprung At Last
Serves: 12
Ingredients
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups finely diced rhubarb
Instructions
  1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with baking cups.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt and whisk to blend.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sour cream, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla until smooth. Lightly stir the sour cream mixture into the dry ingredients with a spatula until the batter just comes together; do not overmix. Gently stir in the diced rhubarb. The batter will be thick.
  4. Divide the batter among the muffin cups, using the back of a spoon or a small spatula to settle the batter into the cups. The batter should mound a bit higher than the tops of the cups.
  5. Bake the muffins until they’re golden brown, spring back most of the way when gently pressed, and a pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes.
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Categories // All By Myself, The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, muffins, rhubarb

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