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Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie

04.27.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Income taxes are due, so my almost-divorced friend throws a poverty party; I am assigned to bring a dessert. I remember seeing something somewhere about pies of the Great Depression, and a little bit of googling leads me to Paula Haney’s Hoosier Mama Book of Pie. I check it out of the library, read the chapter titled Desperation Pies, and have all the ingredients ready to make a pie on Friday evening for her Saturday party.

Friday evening, a text arrives, from a phone number with a San Francisco area code: Hey sweetie it’s Dwayne. How is your day going so far?

I don’t have a sweetie named Dwayne, in San Francisco or elsewhere, so I keep my reply brief: Wrong person.

He doesn’t believe me: U just sent me your number.

Nope, I reply. I’m Seattle, you’re San Francisco.

He agrees he’s in San Francisco, but wants to be sure: Did u just talk to me on the Sugar Daddy website?

I didn’t even know there was such a thing. Now I want to know more. No, I text back. I could use a Sugar Daddy, but I’d need one in Seattle.

Why.

Because that’s where I live.

Are you hot?

That’s a hard question to answer, I think, so I don’t. I qualify for Mensa, I tell him.

I like a smart girl, he says: Send a pic.

First, explain why you are a Sugar Daddy, I say.

I’m looking for a Sugar Baby, he says. I ask why and he tells me about his last sugar baby, the one who ended things after four years, so now he needs a new sugar baby, a sweet sugar baby.

I will spoil u rotten and give u a weekly allowance.

The last time I got an allowance, I was twelve, but I assume we’re talking about more than the five dollars a week I got then. What do you do for a living? I ask.

I own a construction company. What do you do?

I’m a Vice President at a global investment bank.

Why do you need a Sugar Daddy? he asks.

I don’t, but it sounds like a pretty good gig, and banking is tough these days, I tell him.

We chat for a bit longer, but eventually it occurs to him that I am not the person he’s looking for, or perhaps he just loses interest, but either way he stops replying.

I may or may not be hot by his definition, but my oven is not hot by any definition, so given the late hour, I abandon my plan to bake a pie. I’ll do it in the morning. I still have plenty of time.

Saturday morning, I sit and relax with a cup of coffee, and drive The Child to her appointment, and then – finally – go pick up our new microwave. By this time, I discover that Saturday afternoon has somehow arrived, and I have a pie to make. I assemble the ingredients, and turn on the oven, and only then, on my final read-through of the recipe, do I notice that a Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie is supposed to be chilled for at least four hours before serving.

This is a bit of a wrench in my plan to deliver a pie to the party that is still warm from the oven, but I will not be deterred: Desperation Pie will be served. I have taken one shortcut already, using a purchased pie shell, which  I pre-bake in the oven as I mix up the filling.

The pie itself is a simple affair, two kinds of sugar, a bit of flour for body, heavy cream, and vanilla. The recipe calls for a teaspoon of vanilla paste, but from what I’ve learned, vanilla paste is basically just the seeds from a vanilla bean, so I scraped out the seeds from two vanilla pods I already had, and used them. It worked out to about three-quarters of a teaspoon, but tasted just right.

The pie is not set when it comes out of the oven, but a little bit of internet research presented a plausible solution. I set the pie in an ice water bath to cool it rapidly, and hoped it would do the same for 1930’s recipe pie filling as it supposedly does for Jell-O molds – chill and set it quickly.

It worked!

Within an hour, the pie was nicely chilled and set and on its way to a party.

The food at the party was abundant, and all of it perfectly themed – tater tot casseroles, bean dishes, and hot dogs aplenty. The pie was a standout in the crowd, though – a custard pie richly scented of vanilla and notes of caramel. One of the guests called it Crack Pie, and that’s not far off. It’s so rich, though, that I was content to savor just one small, perfectly set, slice.

A few days later, another text arrives, but this time, I know the sender well: I cannot get over how good that pie was!

Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie

 

Hoosier Sugar Cream Pie
 
Print
Cook time
45 mins
Total time
45 mins
 
Author: adapted from Paula Haney, The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie
Ingredients
  • 1 single-crust pie shell of your choice
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ cup dark brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • two vanilla beans
Instructions
  1. Cut vanilla beans open lengthwise, and use the tip of a sharp knife to scrape the seeds out. You will have about ¾ tsp of vanilla bean seeds, put in a small bowl and set aside. (Save the bean pods for some other purpose, like vanilla sugar.)
  2. Pre-bake the pie shell according to the directions, and set aside to cool.
  3. Heat oven to 400 degrees F.
  4. Whisk the sugar, brown sugar, flour, and salt together in a medium bowl. Use your hands to break up any clumps, if needed.
  5. Gently whisk in the heavy cream; taking care not to beat too much, as whipping the cream will prevent the pie from setting. Stir in the vanilla seeds.
  6. Pour the filling into the prepared pie shell and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pie, and bake another 20-25 minutes.
  7. When the pie is ready, the top surface will be beautifully browned and bubbling vigorously; it will not look set.
  8. Set the pie on a wire rack to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least four hours before slicing.
Notes
If you have vanilla paste, you can substitute 1 tsp for the vanilla bean seeds.
If you are pressed for time, cool the pie for 15-20 minutes on a wire rack, then set it in a pan of icewater, as high as you can get without touching the rim, and place in the refrigerator to cool. This will reduce the time needed to cool the pie by about half. (Or, make the pie a day ahead, and save yourself some stress!)
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // dessert, pie, vanilla, vintage recipes

Howard Johnson’s Coconut Loaf Cake

07.08.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

It is one of the enduring ironies of my life that although my initial experience with the stock market – choosing Howard Johnson for a school assignment in a year when the stock sank and the company was sold – was negative, I eventually found my way into a reasonably successful career working in the industry.

That said, I work with people who choose stocks, and don’t actually choose them myself.

The only reason I recognized the Howard Johnson company name at all was that my mother and I ate there, exactly once, when she took me there for a very big treat. The ice cream!

I’m not sure I ever saw one of Howard Johnson’s famous bright orange roofs, since the one we went to was in the ground floor of a Manhattan building. The restaurant seemed a bit beat-up, and the waitress was not friendly like the waitress at the VFW fish fry in Wisconsin, who was also the school crossing guard and admired my pigtails while I played tic-tac-toe with my grandfather, who never seemed to win no matter how hard he tried or how many hints I gave him.  My mother and I sat in a booth and ate our meals, and then had ice cream, which was probably okay but not special enough that I remember it. I liked the ice cream from the Baskin-Robbins near where we lived; one flavor had pieces of frozen bubble gum in it, and at Halloween, they had licorice-flavored black ice cream that tasted awful but disgusted my mother so much that I looked forward to ordering it every autumn.

If it were not for my fifth-grade school project, I don’t think I’d remember Howard Johnson at all, but as it happens, I remember it well: An inauspicious beginning to my future career. It makes me smile, and so it was that when a recipe for the original Coconut Loaf Cake sold at Howard Johnson appeared on the King Arthur Flour blog, well, I had some coconut and some free time and plenty of nostalgia, so I made it.

It was superb: A buttery loaf cake, dense but not heavy,  with a hint of coconut. I didn’t include any additional coconut flavoring, so the flavor is there, but only from the coconut – not overpowering at all. The frosting is just divine with a bit of tang to it, and should not be omitted – there isn’t enough coconut without it. Cool the cake completely before frosting it (I mean it!) and then press in as much shredded coconut as the frosting will hold. Use all the frosting, and be generous with the coconut. Plan to be sticky. Lick fingers thoroughly when done.

The Child was less impressed than I was, explaining to me that she would like it, if she liked coconut. I thought she did like coconut; at least, I can’t come up with another reason why Kate Smith’s Coconut Squares are her most-frequently requested cookie. Apparently, that was a few years ago and I need to keep up.

It was because of her that I discovered one of the nicest features of this cake: It refrigerates really well. This should be surprising, since the original was apparently sold frozen, then thawed and served at home. The cake kept really well in the fridge and tasted divine served cold. It’s an ideal summer cake in this regard – a sweet, cold treat for a hot summer day.

Howard Johnson Coconut Cake

Howard Johnson's Coconut Loaf Cake
 
Print
Author: adapted from the King Arthur Flour website
Ingredients
Cake
  • ¾ cup unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • 5 large eggs
  • 1¼ teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups All-Purpose Flour
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • ⅔ cup sweetened flaked coconut
Frosting
  • ½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 cup cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • ¾ to 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9" x 5" loaf pan.
  2. Make the cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter at medium speed for about 10 seconds, then gradually add the sugar. Beat for 2 to 3 minutes, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until the mixture is fluffy.
  3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating each in completely before adding the next. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl, and beat briefly, just until combined, then add the salt, baking powder, and vanilla.
  4. Add the flour to the bowl in three portions, alternating with the cream. Beat at low speed, just to combine, after each addition.
  5. Stir in the flaked coconut, and scoop the batter into the prepared loaf pan.
  6. Bake the cake for about 70 to 75 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center/top of the loaf comes out clean. Tent it gently with aluminum foil if it appears to be getting too brown.
  7. Remove the cake from the oven, let it cool in the pan for a couple of minutes, then turn it out onto a rack. Cool completely.
  8. Make the frosting: Mix the butter and cream cheese at low speed, until thoroughly combined, then beat in the sugar and salt until smooth.
  9. Place the cake on a large piece of waxed paper. Spread the frosting all over the cake. Pat the flaked coconut onto the frosting. Plan to get sticky, or use a piece of wax paper. Be generous with the coconut.
  10. Cake keeps well in the refrigerator, and may be frozen.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, coconut, vintage recipes

Kate Smith’s Griddle Cakes

02.06.2014 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

I learned how to cook in my grandmother’s kitchen, making the thing she made that I loved best: pancakes. I don’t have the recipe and if there was one, it was not written down. She would add all the ingredients to her bowl while I stood on a stool next to her, holding her electric mixer and beating egg whites until they were light and stiff.  She taught me how to fold them in, and explained why this was such an important step. It holds all the air, she said. It makes them fluffy.

 

I didn’t really see how that worked, since the egg whites were gone when you folded them in, but I remembered the lesson even as the years went on and I took the inevitable shortcut: pancake mix. Just add water.

 

When I found myself with leftover Squash and Apple Compote, which just cried out to be served as part of a brunch, it occurred to me that pancakes from a mix just wouldn’t do, so I pulled out my 1940’s era pamphlet of Kate Smith’s Favorite Recipes, and found her pancake recipe, which folds in egg whites at the end, the way my grandmother and I used to. So, Mr. Faraway went to work beating egg whites, spilling egg whites, and then successfully beating a second batch of them into stiff peaks, while I assembled the remaining ingredients.

 

In a very hot, lightly oiled griddle pan, these pancakes cook up almost as light as air, or as Mr. Faraway pointed out, as light as angel cake, which was my other favorite thing from my grandmother’s repertoire. The outside browned perfectly and stayed crisp. The pancakes didn’t have much taste to them, making them the perfect vehicle for pretty much anything sweet you might want to add – syrup, fruit compote, whatever. They are not good on their own for the same reason.

 

Kate Smith's Griddle Cakes

Kate Smith's Griddle Cakes
 
Print
Author: from "Kate Smith's Favorite Recipes"
Ingredients
  • 1 ¼ cups sifted cake flour
  • 1 ¼ tsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
  • ¾ cup milk
  • 2 tbsp butter, melted and cooled
  • 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Instructions
  1. Sift flour once, measure, then add baking powder and salt, and sift again.
  2. Combine egg yolks and milk; add gradually to flour, beating only until smooth.
  3. Add melted butter. Fold in egg whites.
  4. Cook on a hot, greased griddle or frying pan. Makes about 10 griddle cakes.
Notes
These griddle cakes are fantastically light but also very plain - best served with your favorite syrup or fruit topping.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // breakfast, vintage recipes

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