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Cordon Rose Banana Cake

02.16.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

The Child informs me she has discovered punk music; Green Day is now the soundtrack of choice for our morning drive to school. My own punk music – the Clash, the Sex Pistols, the Ramones – isn’t relevant, she says. I can kind of see her point: She never lived in Margaret Thatcher’s England or Reagan’s America, what do those bands have to say to her?

It makes me a little sad, but I guess I can’t expect her to rebel to the same music I did, and I’ll take Green Day over Taylor Swift any day.

In fact, I’ll take Green Day over Taylor Swift every day; music is the only bright spot of our daily forty-minute slog through Seattle’s dark, early morning mist. February in particular is dark and rainy, the time of year that reminds me that it truly is always darkest before the dawn. You would think that Seattle drivers are pros at this kind of weather, but they aren’t – whenever the sun comes out, now matter how briefly, they forget how to drive in the rain. When the rain inevitably begins again, usually just a few moments later, they have to re-learn the skills needed to drive in it, and as they do, they forget other useful driving skills, like signaling for lane changes or which foot pedal does what.

Most days, I simply swear a lot, but one particularly grim day, I start singing along to Jesus of Suburbia, using my own, made-up-on-the-spot lyrics about Seattle’s Bad Drivers of Suburbia.

My musical effort is received with stunned silence, then outraged sputtering.

OMG, Mom. No. You do not parody Green Day. Mom. WTF.

I burst out laughing, as her indignance continues.

Hashtag: The struggle is real.

I’m still laughing.

Hashtag: First world problems, I reply. I’m fluent in Hashtag.

You know my friends at school all think you’re the Crazy Jewish Mom, right?

She’s told me this before, but today she expounds on the subject at great length, and the thing in particular that she dwells on – the thing that gets all her school friends laughing about Crazy Jewish Mom – is my cooking, specifically, The Awful Fish Thing.

The Awful Fish Thing came from Marie Simmons’ cookbook The Good Egg. The recipe was called Scrambled Eggs with Crispy Potatoes and Salt Cod, and it sounded so good (eggs! crispy potatoes!). I made it for dinner exactly once, and I’m still wondering where I went wrong: There was barely enough egg to hold the other ingredients together, the potatoes didn’t crisp up at all, and the whole mess was woefully underseasoned.

It was, in a word, beige.

I presented it to The Child with this ringing endorsement: It isn’t quite what I expected, but I think it’s edible. If you don’t like it, there are chicken nuggets in the freezer.

I’ve been wary of that cookbook ever since, but in spite of this, I’ve not been forgiven for it.

It’s not the only thing I’ve ever cooked, I point out, and she eventually concedes that yes, the other kids do like my Eggnog Cookies and Fruity Pebble Cookies. The banana cake was popular, too: They divided up the piece that went to school in her lunch bag, and everyone liked it.

The banana cake was a wonderful discovery I made one weekend morning, when I found that, yet again, we could not eat a bunch of bananas faster than they could turn brown. I was in the mood for something that wasn’t my usual standby, Fannie Farmer’s Banana Bread, so I rifled through Rose Levy Beranbaum’s The Cake Bible, which I’ve owned since it was published in 1988 – the same year The Ramones’ Mania was released – and never ever used.

Yes, I am thoroughly ashamed of myself: The recipe for a banana cake that is nothing short of Nirvana sat on my shelf, undiscovered, for two decades. Finding it was a bit like finding money in the pocket of a coat you haven’t worn for a really, really long time.

The cake lacks the heaviness of the usual banana bread – it is all lightness, with a very fine crumb; dusted with powdered sugar, as I made it, it is a perfect tea cake, though it could also be frosted, as Beranbaum suggests, with a chocolate ganache, and would make a lovely birthday cake.

I set it out on the table and it disappeared speedily. Happily, the bananas continue to turn brown faster than we can eat them, and it’s delightfully simple to make.

 

Cordon Rose Banana Cake

Cordon Rose Banana Cake
 
Print
Author: adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum, The Cake Bible
Ingredients
  • 2 large, very ripe bananas (about 1 cup, mashed)
  • 2 tbsp sour cream
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 tsp grated lemon zest (from about 1 1/ 2 lemons)
  • 1½ tsp vanilla
  • 2 cups cake flour
  • ¾ cup + 2 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • ¾ tsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 10 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
  2. Prepare a 9-inch springform pan: line the bottom with parchment, butter and flour the parchment and pan sides.
  3. In a the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, blend together the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt, and set aside.
  4. In the bowl of a food processor, blitz the banana and sour cream until smooth. Add the eggs, lemon zest, and vanilla, and process just until blended.
  5. Add the softened butter and half the banana mixture to the flour, and mix on low speed until combined. Increase speed to medium and beat for 1-2 minutes; scrape down sides. Gradually add the remaining banana mixture in two batches, incorporating each addition for about 30 seconds before adding the next.
  6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top. Bake 30-40 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean and the center springs back when pressed lightly.
  7. Let the cake cool for about 10 minutes in the pan, then loosen the sides and finish cooling on a rack. Dust the top with powdered sugar.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, bananas, cake

English Muffin Bread

01.19.2015 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

I was looking forward to the New Year; last year didn’t go well, yet even so, managed to deteriorate further at the end. I hoped a new year would be a clean start, but only two weeks into the year, it doesn’t seem to be headed in the right direction: Too much work, too much rain, a call from the principal.

I have lots of woes, none of them interesting in the slightest.

My coworker – the one who keeps me sane – isn’t having a good time either. This past week, his teenage daughter got her driver’s license on Monday morning; Monday afternoon, she got pulled over and cited for the second-worst violation one can commit where they live. No one was hit or injured, but she will likely lose her license, and as for my coworker, well, his car insurance is likely going to increase.

I’m not going to win Father of the Year, he tells me.

No, probably not, but he does win bragging rights: His year is off to The Worst Start of anyone either of us knows.

I’m not sure those are bragging rights I want, but I still feel like I lost out somehow.

It has to get better. Cooped up indoors, listening to rain drum against the roof, I root around the refrigerator and find some oranges that I bought to make something or other, so I spend a Saturday afternoon making the Orange and Campari Marmalade recipe from Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food, which turned out nicely, somewhat chunky and a bit bitter, which I like.

I woke up on Sunday wanting English muffins to slather with butter and marmalade, and I had none, nor any motivation to leave the house in the still-pounding rain to buy them. No, I would make something suitable for my lovely marmalade instead.

I had previously tried an English muffin bread recipe from Simply Classic, a Seattle Junior League cookbook I picked up somewhere, and it didn’t go well. The recipe seemed to call for too much flour, so the bread was a bit more dense than I would have liked. But it struck me as a good idea, so I researched it a bit, and found a Cook’s Country recipe that appeared on the Lottie + Doof blog, which has yet to let me down.

I followed the instructions to the letter, and the dough refused to rise. It just sat there glaring at me from the loaf pan in the oven. When I finally gave up and turned the oven off, I heard it laugh.

Since I still had a craving and just enough bread flour left for one last attempt, I researched a bit, and learned that bread does not rise well when it is too dry, a problem I encountered with both recipes. So, for my final effort, I used the Cook’s Country/Lottie+Doof recipe again, but heated up extra milk, just in case the dough became dry.

In the end, I didn’t use it, because I tried mixing it up a bit differently. I mixed four cups of flour to the remaining dry ingredients, but added the fifth cup of flour only after the milk had been thoroughly mixed in. The last cup was added in stages, with more flour only added in once the last addition was fully incorporated. I didn’t use any extra milk, and the dough was plenty moist, and rose, and even bubbled a bit, which you’d expect from a well-behaved English muffin dough.

This dough baked into beautifully browned loaves that sliced and toasted perfectly, even though I couldn’t wait an hour for it to cool down like I was supposed to. I started baking at nine in the morning and didn’t have bread until 1:30, which in my world is waiting quite long enough already, thank you.

It was lovely with marmalade. The Child sliced off a piece and ate it – untoasted, heresy! – with the last of the Rhubarb-Strawberry Jam I made last summer; she pronounced it delightful. It is fortunate the recipe makes two loaves, because although a loaf will keep on your counter for several days, it surely won’t last that long.

English Muffin Bread

English Muffin Bread
 
Print
Prep time
1 hour 15 mins
Cook time
30 mins
Total time
1 hour 45 mins
 
Author: adapted from Cook's Country/Lottie + Doof
Ingredients
  • Cornmeal
  • 5 cups bread flour, sifted
  • 4½ tsp instant yeast
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 3 cups milk, scalded
Instructions
  1. Grease two 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pans and dust with cornmeal. Combine the four cups of the bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, and baking soda in large bowl. Stir in the hot milk until thoroughly combined. Add in the final cup of flour in three additions, only adding more flour as each addition is fully incorporated.
  2. Cover dough with greased plastic wrap and let rise in warm place for 30 minutes, or until dough has doubled in size.
  3. Divide the dough between the two prepared pans, pushing into corners as needed. Cover pans with greased plastic, set them in a warm place, and let rise for 30 minutes, until dough is about at the top rim of the pans.
  4. Heat oven to 375°F, remove plastic, and place pans in oven. Bake until bread is nicely browned and smells delicious, about 30 minutes. Remove bread from pans and cool on wire racks, about an hour, then slice, toast, and serve.
Notes
The recipe calls for whole milk, but I used 2% since that's what I keep on hand. I do think while would be better here.

A note on loaf pans: You may have 9x5 loaf pans, which are not the same as those called for in this recipe. It is fine to use them, but realize that your bread will not rise as high if you do.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, bread

Old Witch’s Magic Nut Cake

12.21.2014 by J. Doe // 6 Comments

I don’t really remember much of my mother’s cooking, which is odd because it’s what I grew up eating. We could not afford to eat out much; even McDonald’s was a treat. She had a few things I liked, like toad-in-the-hole, and a chicken in hoisin recipe that she found in the paper and was her staple for guests. Then there were the other things, like eggplant parmesan, that she declared healthy and left me with a lifelong aversion to eggplant.

When you hear the word eggplant, you might think, Delicious, but the word that comes to my mind is Slimy.

My father had a similar experience with my mother’s food; the story he likes to tell is about the first cheeseburger she cooked for him, which involved pouring a can of undiluted cheese soup over a patty. I’ve not seen anyone make a cheeseburger that way, before or since, he’ll say.

Holiday cooking was a source of alarm. At my grandmother’s house, it involved popcorn balls – the recipe for which I still wish I had – and cookies, and one magical year, she produced three kinds of pie when I could not decide which kind I wanted most – apple, pumpkin, or mince. My mother did not have a standard repertoire, and would attempt things she found in the paper, with mixed success. When I was in second or third grade, she decided we would make a gingerbread house, which was very exciting until the sugar mortar refused to hold the walls together, and the resulting frustration led to a screaming match, followed by tears, with no pretty candy-clad house at the end.

Still, my mother would occasionally stumble onto a recipe that worked and when she did, she stuck with it, doggedly, for years. For the holidays, it was Old Witch’s Magic Nut Cake, which came from the back of one of my books, Old Witch and the Polka Dot Ribbon. The first time she made it, she knew it was a winner, and every year that followed, she made loaves all through the fall, giving them as gifts to teachers and crossing guards and offerings to holiday potlucks.

I didn’t have many holiday recipes, so when I reached my teens and started babysitting, I made loaves of it too, and gave it to the families I babysat for, who all pronounced it delicious. One recipient told me she had discovered it was incredibly good spread with soft cream cheese, and I was surprised to realize the original recipe calls for a cream cheese frosting. My mother never made it and neither have I: the cake is perfectly moist, spicy, and nutty, and doesn’t need anything else. Still, if you wanted to make it into a cake, you could just pour the batter into the right size pan and top it with your favorite cream cheese frosting – nothing too sweet!

Or do like I do and have a piping hot piece with a bit of salted butter – pure winter decadence.

I usually make the bread in two loaf pans, but you can of course make smaller gift loaves if you like. Be very careful to check with a toothpick, rather than use the stated times – the cake is finished when a toothpick comes out clean, which may correspond to the expected baking time, but more often than not, doesn’t.

Old Witch's Magic Nut Cake

Old Witch's Magic Nut Cake
 
Print
Author: adapted from Wende and Harry Devlin, Old Witch and the Polka Dot Ribbon
Ingredients
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 15-ounce can pumpkin
  • ¾ cup vegetable oil
  • ½ cup water
  • 2½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2¼ cups sugar
  • 1½ tsp baking soda
  • 1¼ tsp salt
  • ¾ tsp nutmeg
  • ¾ tsp cinnamon
  • 1 cup golden raisins
  • 1 cup chopped walnuts
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil two loaf pans and set aside.
  2. Beat together wet ingredients in a bowl. In a second bowl, mix together dry ingredients. Combine the two mixtures, then mix in raisins and nuts.
  3. Pour batter into loaf pans, and bake for an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes. Cake is done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  4. Let loaves cool for 15-20 minutes in the pans, then remove and finish cooling on a rack.
  5. If desired, top with your favorite cream cheese frosting and additional chopped walnuts.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, pumpkin

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