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Maple-Glazed Winter Squash And Apple Compote

02.06.2014 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

Before The Dog died, I decided it would be a good idea to order myself a gift, so that something would arrive to cheer me a few days after. The gift I chose for myself was Claudia Fleming’s regrettably out-of-print The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern, about which I keep hearing rave reviews, and it strikes me that a cookbook that is still being talked about ten years after it was published is probably a cookbook worth checking out. My library didn’t have a copy, and in late December, the cheapest used copy on Amazon was $140.

 

That seemed kind of steep for a cookbook, so I waited, and sure enough, after Christmas, prices started to drop, a little each day, and then suddenly a couple of sellers dropped their prices by quite a bit, but then raised them again – on Amazon. But one of the sellers left his low price – $70 – on Abebooks, while copies were still selling for over $100 on Amazon – and after a couple of days and a little rationalization on my part, this seemed like a very good deal, and I bought it.

 

We’ll ignore the fact that prices continued to drop on Amazon, and if I’d waited just a week or two, I could have saved myself another $20. In fact, we’ll just stop looking at the prices. They don’t matter, because the cookbook arrived, and I had all the ingredients I needed to make the gingersnaps, and they were truly the loveliest gingersnaps I’ve ever made.

 

I had a big container of them waiting for Mr. Faraway when he visited, only to discover that although he seems to like nearly everything I make, he doesn’t like gingersnaps regardless of who made them, and now I’ve got a dinner guest and an ample supply of something that won’t pass as dessert after all.

 

I also have a large butternut squash that I bought for some reason – probably a very good one – and The Last Course has a recipe that I would have probably bypassed for the rest of my life, were it not for the fact that it calls for butternut squash, and I have one, and I need to do something fairly quick and simple for dessert.

 

Mr. Faraway says, I don’t really see how a vegetable can be dessert.

 

I point out that pumpkin can be pie, and that’s both vegetable and dessert.

 

Let’s give it a shot, he says.

 

He does all the dicing and peeling, while I manage the cooking for the recipe, which we made together as the spareribs roasted. I immediately hit a speed bump, discovering that I’m short by half the amount of maple syrup the recipe calls for, so we agree that swapping in some honey for the rest was probably the safest solution. It all smells incredible while cooking, and when the squash is tender enough to sample, we try it and discover it tastes just like pumpkin pie.

 

The combination of reduced maple syrup, honey, and caramel becomes quite intense, so the compote is very rich – a little goes a long way. Fleming suggests serving it with gingersnaps, which was not an option on that evening, or a pound cake, which would be delicious soaked in the syrup. We opted to serve it over plain vanilla ice cream, elevating it into a very special dessert. We agree it would be a super topping for any number of things, especially brunch-y things, and the following morning, we make a batch of Kate Smith’s Griddle Cakes, pouring the compote and syrup on top, for a true breakfast treat.

 

Maple-Glazed Winter Squash And Apple Compote

 

 

Maple-Glazed Winter Squash And Apple Compote
 
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Author: Claudia Fleming, The Last Course
Ingredients
  • ¾ cup maple syrup
  • 1½ cinnamon sticks
  • 2 whole cloves
  • 2 cups peeled and diced butternut squash (3/4 inch dice)
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 cup peeled and diced Granny Smith apples (1/2 inch dice)
Instructions
  1. Combine the syrup, cinnamon and cloves in a pan with ¾ cup water, bring to the boil and reduce for 7 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the squash and simmer until tender and partly translucent, about 10-12 minutes. Remove the squash from the syrup and set aside, and reduce the syrup for another 7 minutes. Strain, and set aside.
  2. Heat an 8-inch skillet and melt ¼ cup of the sugar, shaking the pan. Add another ¼ cup, melt, add the final ¼ cup. Heat until it reaches a rich golden brown colour. Add the apple chunks in one layer and turn off the heat. Don't stir. Baste occasionally as the apples heat and release their juices. To serve, add the apple and squash to the remaining maple syrup and heat through.
  3. Serve warm or at room temp.
Notes
I didn't have the correct amount of maple syrup on hand and didn't discover that small fact until cooking was underway. I substituted honey for about half the maple syrup and it was quite delicious. I like to use Grade B maple syrup (easily available at Trader Joe's and elsewhere) as I find it has a heartier flavor than Grade A.

I served this the first night over plain vanilla ice cream, and it was spectacular. The following morning, I served it over pancakes, and they were divine.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // apples, butternut squash, dessert, maple syrup

Flora’s Spicy Spareribs

02.03.2014 by J. Doe // 4 Comments

Within a few days of submitting our foster dog application, the rescue rep emails me: The dog at the shelter in Olympia is no longer on stray hold, and he’s going to pieces at the shelter. He arrived as a happy, bouncy boy and now cowers at the back of his kennel. Are you interested in fostering him?

 

Sure, I reply, and a few days later, The Child and I sit in the car discussing dog names in unexpectedly heavy Sunday morning freeway traffic. We come up with a list of names, none of which seem quite right, but of course we haven’t met this dog yet, and only have a couple of blurred camera phone photos to go by. He doesn’t look like much, to judge by these photos, but then we meet him: Brown eyes that ask to be loved, a dazzling white and copper coat. He rushes to me, then sits on my feet, looking up at me and leaning against my legs.

 

I had feared a mad rush of memories, but this Red Dog is nothing like The Dog.

 

Over the next few days, The Child and I get to know the Red Dog, who is young, and feisty, and though he is well-trained in many ways, still has some things to learn, like how to get into a car. He keeps an eye on me during the day, following me from room to room, upstairs and downstairs. He cannot bear to have me leave his sight; I cannot tiptoe quietly enough to slip away unnoticed.

 

I take a new route when I walk the Red Dog, and sometimes I accidentally call him by The Dog’s name, but for the most past, being together is a good arrangement; the unbearable emptiness I have felt since The Dog’s passing finally starts to recede.

 

Mr. Faraway comes to visit the following weekend, and it is a weekend full of errands, but he doesn’t complain about the trips to the mattress store, to downtown for The Child’s school project research, or to the various stores to get the fixings for dinner. I decide to go to the specialty butcher, the guy with the really good meat, partly because I get so little meat that I feel like I can indulge in the very best quality, but also because the real butcher has real bones and other treats for dogs. The Red Dog is delighted with the pig skins we bring him.

 

For us, I buy spareribs, because I have lately been poking through cookbooks that I’ve had on my shelf for a long time but never actually used. Some of them land on a pile of potential donations, but one book in particular has me scratching my head wondering why I’ve never used it: Patricia Wells’ The Paris Cookbook. Most of the recipes aren’t especially hard, and several are quite appealing.

 

I opt to try the recipe for spareribs first, because it involves a minimum of prep work, and spareribs are one of those things that I just haven’t had good luck finding a recipe for. The last recipe I attempted was something I found in a google search and involved a sauce made out of blueberries, which seemed appealing enough in theory, but in practice made me wish I’d saved myself the trouble and simply gone to Outback.

 

These were not those ribs, though. Wells’ sauce is incredibly simple: Mix three ingredients in a bowl. Wells suggests you make your own Thai curry paste and provides a recipe for that; I used a jar of red curry paste from the supermarket. The sauce has just the right level of heat and flavor, and would be fantastic on grilled chicken or grilled anything, really.

 

I enjoyed the ribs, though I was hoping for a bit more spiciness; I doused mine liberally with the extra sauce for added flavor. I think marinating the meat in a bit of the sauce ahead of time might do the trick. Mr. Faraway thought the ribs were delicious the way they were, and didn’t need a thing. We agreed the sauce was superb.

 

Flora's Spicy Spareribs

Flora's Spicy Spareribs
 
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Prep time
10 mins
Cook time
1 hour 30 mins
Total time
1 hour 40 mins
 
Author: Patricia Wells, The Paris Cookbook
Serves: 4
Ingredients
The Sauce
  • ½ cup honey
  • 4 tbsp tomato paste
  • 2 tbsp Thai curry paste
The Ribs
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 racks baby back pork ribs (4 lbs total)
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 300⁰ F.
  2. Prepare the sauce: combine honey, tomato paste, and curry paste in a small bowl.
  3. In a large roasting pan over moderate heat, heat the oil until hot but not smoking, Add the pork ribs and brown well on each side, about 2 minutes per side. With a pastry brush, brush about half of the sauce on the ribs. Reserve the remaining sauce to serve at the table. Sear meat for a minute more per side.
  4. Pour with wine and lemon juice over the ribs.
  5. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil, and place in the center of the oven. Cook about 1 ½ hours, until the meat is very tender and you can wiggle the bone from the meat with very little effort. Cut the ribs into serving portions and serve with the remaining sauce.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // meat, spareribs

Alice Waters’ Roast Chicken & Herbs

01.25.2014 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

My father had a dog once, and when it died, the loss was too great: He never had another dog. I tell him, that’s how I feel, but I am so lost without him. I’ll foster a dog. I can help out another dog while I get used to this new reality. That’s a good idea, he says. I tell The Child about this plan, and she says, I don’t think The Dog would mind. He’d want someone to look out for us.

I email the breed rescue group and submit a foster family application and the state rep gets right back to me: We have a couple of dogs in dire situations, I will put you to work soon.

Mr. Faraway comes to visit the next weekend. I tell him about the possible rescue dogs: We may have to drive to Olympia when you’re here, or there’s a dog that sounds like it’s in Spokane? He’s driving four hours to see me, but does not complain about the prospect of an additional road trip. He asks about the dogs and whether I’ve heard any updates. I check my email a lot during his visit, and he doesn’t complain about that, either. We run errands with The Child –  nothing that we can’t stop doing easily, if we are suddenly needed. After a while I realize this is a slower process than I thought it would be, and probably nothing is going to happen this weekend.

I should make dinner, and I have a guest, and I cannot focus on anything, and I have nothing planned.

Don’t worry about it, he says. We’ll figure it out.

We go through a pile of cookbooks I have checked out of the library, but everything seems a little too complex to me. I want something familiar, and simple, and finally decide that the only solution is something I’ve made dozens of times: Alice Waters’ roast chicken. I found this recipe years ago in a cooking magazine – I think Food and Wine, but don’t hold me to that. I was struck by its simplicity, and if memory serves, there was originally some sort of introduction by Waters advising the reader to Use Fresh Herbs. Truthfully, I’ve used dried herbs many times, and though the chicken comes out just fine, fresh is definitely better here (and as a general rule). The chicken smells divine toward the end of its roast – don’t be tempted to take it out too soon. Be warned, the temptation will be great.

I served this with a simple side dish of roasted new potatoes and brussels sprouts, which we tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper, then added to the oven for the final 35 minutes (adding some garlic cloves to the pan after the first 10 minutes). Everything was done at the same time, and worked together perfectly.

The only difficult thing about this recipe, in fact, is the waiting.

Alice Waters' Roast Chicken

 

Alice Waters' Roast Chicken & Herbs
 
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One of the simplest and best recipes for roast chicken I've found.
Author: Adapted from Alice Waters
Ingredients
  • One 4-lb chicken
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled
  • 1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 tsp chopped fresh oregano or marjoram
  • ½ tsp fresh ground pepper
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 375°. Rinse the chicken inside and out with cold water.
  2. Finely chop garlic. Blend in the remaining ingredients.
  3. Rub the herb paste all over the outside of the chicken. Set the chicken in a roasting pan (using a rack if you have one), breast side up, for 20 minutes. Turn the bird over, and roast breast side down for 20 minutes. Turn it over again and roast breast side up for 35 minutes longer, or until done according to a met thermometer.
  4. Let the meat rest, tented, for 15-20 minutes before carving. Collect the pan juices, skim off the fat, and use to moisten the chicken.
Notes
Waters' original recipe calls for 1 tsp each fresh rosemary, thyme, and oregano (or marjoram), but you can play with the herb combinations. I used 1.5 tsp each fresh rosemary and thyme, because that's what I had. Fresh herbs are best, of course, but you can use dried, just reduce the quantities to a third (or a half) if you do. Waters also suggests that you process the garlic by rubbing it against the tines of a fork until it becomes a juicy puree. This has never worked for me so I just chop it very fine.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, meat

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