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Big Sur Bakery’s Baked Beans

09.05.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Earlier in the year, I spent some time with some of my older cookbooks, in particular The New Basics Cookbook, which was once a favorite of mine – as evidenced by its spattered pages and cracked binding – but in recent years, hasn’t really inspired me. I still use the Mac and Cheese recipe (which uses penne and gruyere), but that’s about it.

In the chapter on beans, I found a fairly simple recipe for red beans with rice, so I made it, in hopes that it might meet The Child’s approval. She adores beans, and as a result I’ve learned to appreciate – if not love – them, but we’ve gotten tired of many of my standby bean recipes.

In the New Basics recipe, the beans are supposed to bake for 90 minutes, but at the end of that time, they were still disagreeably watery. I cooked the beans for another hour, then another, and finally the texture was just right. The Child loved them.

After three and a half hours of baking, I had enough beans for one dinner (for two) and one lunch of leftovers (for one).

In my universe, that’s not enough food to warrant that kind of oven time, so I doubled the recipe and cooked it in the slow cooker, where it cooked fine, but there was still the problem of too much liquid. I made the recipe several more times, and finally got the liquid balance right. The Child adored each of my efforts.

I found it all rather bland, though I was happy enough to keep making it, since she happily continued to eat it.

I didn’t go looking for another bean recipe; in fact, I was looking for a blackberry scone recipe when I checked The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook out of the library. But on flipping through the pages, I found a baked bean recipe that promised to be a “fresher, cleaner” version of traditional baked beans – which I love but, you will not be surprised to learn, The Child does not.

The Big Sur Bakery does not lie.  These beans are everything baked beans should be – lightly sweet, lightly smoky, lightly spiced, robustly flavorful. The sweetness is not overbearing, there is no overly assertive vinegar or tomato or anything as I’ve found in some recipes. The seasoning was so perfect I found myself eating it straight from the pan, and though the beans would be great alongside pork, I made rice, something I could make quickly, so that I wouldn’t have to wait to eat those beans.

I might have had a few spoonfuls while the rice was cooking.

The recipe needs a bit of advanced planning. You won’t get the same result using canned beans, which won’t stand up to the long cooking time needed to infuse the beans with flavor. But most of the time is untended, and none of the ingredients are hard to find.

I made a couple of minor substitutions: First, I used vegetable broth instead of chicken stock, which I thought I had on hand and, well, didn’t. I substituted 1 tsp of dried herbs for the fresh oregano and thyme, same reason. And I omitted the parsley because I just don’t like it.

Also, I didn’t use freshly ground coffee – I use Folgers, so that’s what went in. Yes, I live in Seattle and I use Folgers. (I run it through a fancy French press, if that makes the idea more palatable. It makes all coffee wonderful. Really.)

I was pleased to have an ample supply of leftovers the next day. Sadly, though, I made this recipe on the first day of school, so The Child disappeared into her bedroom with her dinner, so she could continue analyzing the day via skype with her friends).  Her jury, at least, is still out.

 

Big Sur Baked Beans

 

Big Sur Bakery's Baked Beans
 
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Author: Wojtowicz/Gilson, from The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook
Ingredients
  • 1 pound dried red, navy, or cranberry beans
  • 1 small onion, halved
  • 1 small carrot
  • 1 small celery stalk
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 3 ounces bacon, diced (3-4 slices)
  • 3 tbsp whole-grain mustard
  • 3 tbsp brown sugar
  • 1 tsp ground coffee
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 tsp dried thyme
Instructions
  1. Place the beans in a large bowl, cover with water and soak at room temperature overnight. Drain the beans and place them in a medium pot with the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, garlic, stock, and bacon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the beans are tender, but not mushy, about 30-45 minutes (they will cook further in the oven). Skim off any foam that forms.
  2. Strain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid. Discard the onion, carrot, celery, and bay leaf; set the beans aside.
  3. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  4. In a small bowl, combine the mustard, brown sugar, ground coffee, ground pepper, salt, and reserved cooking liquid. Combine the beans and the sauce in a baking dish, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or until the beans have absorbed most of the liquid. Remove from the oven, and stir in the herbs.
Notes
I didn't have fresh herbs on hand so I used dried, as listed above. The original recipe calls for: 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley; 1 tbsp oregano; 1 tbsp thyme.
The original recipe calls for "freshly ground coffee." I used Folgers and it was fine. Folgers also makes a nice cup of coffee when used in a French press. I live in Seattle. I know coffee. Trust me.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // beans, comfort food

Spiced Blackberry Jam

09.03.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

The laptop surprise was a helpful reminder of two things: first, that I need to really, really budget carefully, to make sure that all The Child’s school costs are covered, and second, that there are a lot of ways to cut costs, if you take the time to look for them.

Which brings me to the blackberries. Last year, I picked and froze several pounds of blackberries, which lasted through spring. I baked a couple of coffee cakes with them, and then The Child found the bags and I would discover her nibbling on bowls of thawed berries, so I left them for her to finish. They were gone in late spring, but it was only a couple of months until they were back in season.

This time of year, all I have to do is bring a bag with me when I walk the Red Dog, and I come home with blackberries. On the weekend, when we have time for a long walk, I can come home with a pound or more of fresh berries.

The Red Dog loves his walks, barking joyfully when I attach his leash, then dancing wildly until the door is opened, then trying to stand still while I untangle him so that we can, finally, go out. We wander through the college together, and he stays patiently by my side, watching as I use sticks to pull branches to that I can reach a cluster of berries without getting pricked by sharp thorns. I struggle a bit with the leash, at times, because holding it prevents me from reaching as far as I need to, so I finally let go of it.

He walks a few steps away, and sits down, quietly watching. Content.

When it is time for me to move on, I say his name, and he follows, and sits near the new spot, and after a couple of moves, I don’t say his name anymore. He’s just there, wherever I am.

We come home one Saturday with two pounds of berries, and after my success with Rhubarb-Strawberry Jam, I decide to try my hand at another jam, and finally settled on this spiced blackberry jam by Gloria Nichol, from her book 100 Jams, Jellies, Preserves and Pickles. (The book also has a recipe for a variation, which includes nectarines.)

This jam was decidedly trickier to make, since I did not want the seeds and centers that can make blackberries unpleasant, so I ran the jam through a food mill. It’s an optional step, but I wouldn’t skip it: it’s worth the time for the resulting smooth berry jam.

The spices give a subtle layer of flavor, a taste that will warm you up when spread on hot toast on a chilly autumn day. It’s also not for everyone, because the star anise gives a hint of licorice, which I love, but others might not. It is complex and thoroughly unexpected and comforting all at once.

I had no trouble processing the jam and getting a seal; the recipe makes a bit less than four cups – which means three jars for later, and almost a full jar to enjoy right now.

Spiced Blackberry Jam

Spiced Blackberry Jam
 
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Author: Gloria Nichol, 100 Jams, Jellies, Preserves & Pickles
Ingredients
  • 2 lbs blackberries
  • 1 star anise
  • 3 cloves
  • 1 small cinnamon stick
  • juice of 2 lemons
  • 1 lb 9 oz sugar
Instructions
  1. Place the blackberries and spices in a sauce pan with about 2 tablespoons of water (just enough to prevent fruit from sticking). Bring to a simmer, cooking until the berries are tender and juicy, mashing with the back of a spoon or potato masher.
  2. Run the berries through a food mill.
  3. Return the berries to a pan and add the lemon juice; heat through, stirring often.
  4. Add sugar, stirring until dissolved.
  5. Turn up the heat and boil rapidly until the jam has reached the setting point (holds its shape when a spoonful is put on a chilled plate).
  6. Pour hot jam into sterilized jars, leaving ¼″ headspace, cover with sterilized lids and rings.
  7. Process in a hot water bath for 10 minutes.
  8. Remove from water bath and let jars cool on a kitchen towel. If lids snap, jars are sealed; if they don't snap, refrigerate the jar.
Notes
This recipe filled three one-cup jam jars, with a bit of extra that went in the fridge. Put the water for the water bath on to boil before you begin cooking the berries; put the jars and lids in boiling water for about ten minutes to sterilize them. Leave them in the water until just before you fill them.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // blackberries, jam

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam

08.26.2014 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

My garden is, for the most part, not really producing much again this year, even though I’ve conquered the slugs and the aphids and the cabbage worms and the thrips and all their various friends. I think partly the problem is that I put things in a bit too late, or in some cases, a bit too small. Another part of the problem is that I developed some bad habits last year, in my attempt to solve the problems I believed were plaguing my garden when the problem was, in fact, slugs.

For example, I had cut back on the amount of watering I was doing, in the mistaken belief that the mysterious problem in my garden was overwatering. This year, my strawberries started doing really well when I started watering them – sadly, a bit late in the season to get maximum enjoyment from our fresh strawberries. Still, The Child makes regular visits to the backyard and returns with a handful of bright red berries that she swears are the most delicious berries she’s ever eaten.

I’ll have to take her word for it. I’ve never gotten out there fast enough to get one before she does.

I planted the strawberries in their own special area, a spot that is suddenly sunny following the removal of two small trees that previously resided there. The berries are mostly for The Child, whose school nickname is Strawberry Girl. Alongside them, I planted rhubarb, mostly for me. I don’t have a rhubarb-related nickname, but I do love the stuff, and have fond memories of my grandma’s rhubarb plants and, mostly, her rhubarb pies.

The rhubarb grew like crazy: huge green stalks emerged only a month after I put the plant in, and though all the advice I found on the internet said not to pick rhubarb the first year you put the plant in, I realized that this was the same internet that told me I was overwatering when, in fact, I had slugs.

So, I researched a little harder, and asked different questions, and finally came to the conclusion that when a rhubarb plant is producing this much, it’s quite alright to pick some. So I waited for the rhubarb to turn its familiar red hue.

The rhubarb continued to grow – vast, leafy, green stalks. Stalks that never turned red.

I finally caught a glimpse of a bit of pink at the base of one stalk, and got all excited, and … nothing happened.

I googled some more and learned a fun fact: Not all rhubarb is red.

Green rhubarb, which is apparently what I planted – I should really stop reading the internet and start reading labels – isn’t very pretty, but it is crazy delicious, and I decided to resolve the prettiness issue by simply marrying rhubarb with its traditional partner, strawberries. Since all our strawberries are consumed as soon as they ripen, I bought a bag of frozen strawberries from Trader Joe’s, found a recipe for jam, and then broke open my three-year-old, never-used, Learn To Can At Home kit.

The jam recipe I chose was from Saveur magazine, and very easy to make and follow. I appreciate that I didn’t have to add any pectin, and the fruit cooked down and jelled just fine. The hardest part was not eating it all right out of the pot, because it’s so delicious that it’s hard to restrain yourself. It is all perfectly tart from the rhubarb, and perfectly sweet from the strawberries and sugar. The Child pronounced it fantastic.

As satisfying as the jam is – even using frozen strawberries! – there was an even more satisfying moment in making it. I took the jars out of the water bath and set them on a towel to cool as instructed, and moments later, heard the snap of a jar sealing itself, and then another, and then another. I made jam for the first time, I canned something for the first time, and I did it all correctly because it worked. Even with green rhubarb and freezer-case strawberries.

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam

 

Rhubarb–Strawberry Jam
 
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Author: Sasha Chapman, Saveur Magazine
Ingredients
  • 5 cups rhubarb (about 1 1⁄4 lbs.), cut into 3⁄4" x 1⁄2" cubes
  • 2 cups hulled and quartered strawberries (about 1⁄2 lb.)
  • 2¼ cups sugar
  • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Instructions
  1. Combine the ingredients in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium-low; cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb breaks down and the jam has thickened, about 1 hour. To determine whether jam has set, place a small spoonful on a chilled plate; if the dollop of jam holds firm and doesn't get runny around the edges, it is ready for canning. If it runs, continue to cook for another 10 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, submerge three 1-cup canning jars, along with their lids and ring bands, in a large pot of boiling water and sterilize over high heat for 10 minutes. Transfer sterilized jars, lids, and bands to a clean dish towel. Fill each jar with hot jam, leaving at least 1⁄4" of space at the top. Wipe jar rims with a clean dish towel, place lids on jars, and secure ring bands.
  3. Transfer filled jars to a canning rack; place rack in a pot of gently boiling water so that jars are submerged by at least 1"; let boil for 10 minutes. Transfer jars, set at least 1" apart, to a dish towel and let cool, undisturbed, for 24 hours. To test that jars have properly sealed, unscrew bands and lift each jar by the edge of the lid; if the lid holds, the jar is sealed. If it loosens, jar is not fully sealed, and jam should be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks. Sealed jars will keep, in a cool, dark place, for up to a year.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // jam, rhubarb, strawberries

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