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Big Sur Bakery’s Baked Beans

09.05.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Earlier in the year, I spent some time with some of my older cookbooks, in particular The New Basics Cookbook, which was once a favorite of mine – as evidenced by its spattered pages and cracked binding – but in recent years, hasn’t really inspired me. I still use the Mac and Cheese recipe (which uses penne and gruyere), but that’s about it.

In the chapter on beans, I found a fairly simple recipe for red beans with rice, so I made it, in hopes that it might meet The Child’s approval. She adores beans, and as a result I’ve learned to appreciate – if not love – them, but we’ve gotten tired of many of my standby bean recipes.

In the New Basics recipe, the beans are supposed to bake for 90 minutes, but at the end of that time, they were still disagreeably watery. I cooked the beans for another hour, then another, and finally the texture was just right. The Child loved them.

After three and a half hours of baking, I had enough beans for one dinner (for two) and one lunch of leftovers (for one).

In my universe, that’s not enough food to warrant that kind of oven time, so I doubled the recipe and cooked it in the slow cooker, where it cooked fine, but there was still the problem of too much liquid. I made the recipe several more times, and finally got the liquid balance right. The Child adored each of my efforts.

I found it all rather bland, though I was happy enough to keep making it, since she happily continued to eat it.

I didn’t go looking for another bean recipe; in fact, I was looking for a blackberry scone recipe when I checked The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook out of the library. But on flipping through the pages, I found a baked bean recipe that promised to be a “fresher, cleaner” version of traditional baked beans – which I love but, you will not be surprised to learn, The Child does not.

The Big Sur Bakery does not lie.  These beans are everything baked beans should be – lightly sweet, lightly smoky, lightly spiced, robustly flavorful. The sweetness is not overbearing, there is no overly assertive vinegar or tomato or anything as I’ve found in some recipes. The seasoning was so perfect I found myself eating it straight from the pan, and though the beans would be great alongside pork, I made rice, something I could make quickly, so that I wouldn’t have to wait to eat those beans.

I might have had a few spoonfuls while the rice was cooking.

The recipe needs a bit of advanced planning. You won’t get the same result using canned beans, which won’t stand up to the long cooking time needed to infuse the beans with flavor. But most of the time is untended, and none of the ingredients are hard to find.

I made a couple of minor substitutions: First, I used vegetable broth instead of chicken stock, which I thought I had on hand and, well, didn’t. I substituted 1 tsp of dried herbs for the fresh oregano and thyme, same reason. And I omitted the parsley because I just don’t like it.

Also, I didn’t use freshly ground coffee – I use Folgers, so that’s what went in. Yes, I live in Seattle and I use Folgers. (I run it through a fancy French press, if that makes the idea more palatable. It makes all coffee wonderful. Really.)

I was pleased to have an ample supply of leftovers the next day. Sadly, though, I made this recipe on the first day of school, so The Child disappeared into her bedroom with her dinner, so she could continue analyzing the day via skype with her friends).  Her jury, at least, is still out.

 

Big Sur Baked Beans

 

Big Sur Bakery's Baked Beans
 
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Author: Wojtowicz/Gilson, from The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook
Ingredients
  • 1 pound dried red, navy, or cranberry beans
  • 1 small onion, halved
  • 1 small carrot
  • 1 small celery stalk
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 3 ounces bacon, diced (3-4 slices)
  • 3 tbsp whole-grain mustard
  • 3 tbsp brown sugar
  • 1 tsp ground coffee
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 tsp dried thyme
Instructions
  1. Place the beans in a large bowl, cover with water and soak at room temperature overnight. Drain the beans and place them in a medium pot with the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, garlic, stock, and bacon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the beans are tender, but not mushy, about 30-45 minutes (they will cook further in the oven). Skim off any foam that forms.
  2. Strain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid. Discard the onion, carrot, celery, and bay leaf; set the beans aside.
  3. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  4. In a small bowl, combine the mustard, brown sugar, ground coffee, ground pepper, salt, and reserved cooking liquid. Combine the beans and the sauce in a baking dish, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or until the beans have absorbed most of the liquid. Remove from the oven, and stir in the herbs.
Notes
I didn't have fresh herbs on hand so I used dried, as listed above. The original recipe calls for: 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley; 1 tbsp oregano; 1 tbsp thyme.
The original recipe calls for "freshly ground coffee." I used Folgers and it was fine. Folgers also makes a nice cup of coffee when used in a French press. I live in Seattle. I know coffee. Trust me.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // beans, comfort food

Chunky Apple Sauce

11.30.2013 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

The Cleaning Lady has a new business, selling jewelry. It’s hard to picture her wearing any of the items in the glossy catalog, but the things are actually quite nice. I buy some earrings on one occasion, and a necklace on another. She asks if I will throw a party – to get some jewelry for free – and though I am not a big fan of those parties where you go to someone’s house knowing you are obligated to make a purchase, after a bit of putting her off, I finally decide Why Not? It’s pretty and Christmas is coming.

The evening arrives and I have four guests: Two ladies I have known since I moved to Seattle a decade ago – the first people I met, in fact. The others are a neighbor who I help with genealogy, and a mom at The Child’s school. The second two are late, but the first two arrive together, exactly on time.

The Cleaning Lady – who looks nothing like she usually does, dressed for a party – greets them at the door and introduces herself. I help them off with their coats, standing in the newly-painted foyer. I pour them some wine, and we sit in the freshly-repainted and redecorated living room, next to a large jewelry display, chatting about cars – specifically, their cars – and pets – even though one of them doesn’t like cats, she thinks The Siamese is a rather handsome one.

The black and white cat takes a hint and wanders off, as does The Cleaning Lady, who sits quietly as I try to think of a way to bring her and her jewelry back into the conversation. No opportunities present themselves, but as I sit and listen, I reflect on all the other times I’ve seen these women in the past year, and done the exact same thing: Sat and listened and waited for someone to ask, perhaps, whether I’d been dating anyone. They never did, and I turned it into a game, asking them if their college-age daughters had boyfriends, or if other mutual friends were still seeing people, and wondering if getting them onto a topic would lead them to make an inquiry I could answer.

But they just answered the questions, and asked none in return, all year.

I start texting the other two ladies, who arrive within minutes of each other. Even though they are an hour late, they immediately get into the spirit of the evening, taking their glasses of wine over to the jewelry display, and trying things on. One of them went onto the jewelry company’s website and watched their scarf-tying video, and starts to demonstrate for us all. One of them buys a necklace for her daughter, but the scarf-tying lady says, I can’t buy a thing, and then confides she’s in the middle of a divorce and very worried about money.

The ladies make their jewelry purchases and finish their wine, and head out, and when they are gone, The Cleaning Lady says, those first two ladies are not nice people. They are not good.

I try to defend them: We used to be very close. When The Child was little, we did a lot of things together and they helped me a lot.

We both look at The Child, now trying on bracelets and nearly my height. She was little a long time ago.

A weight comes off me as the holidays simplify themselves. I decide not to host my annual cookie exchange, which has long since outlived its fun spirit owing to the sense of obligation I feel to do it each year – the event each year I know I will see old friends. I start to back away from hosting Thanksgiving, another annual event that I host out of guilt, also attended every year by one woman, who I also met around the same time. I am startled to discover that this friend, this year, has made other plans involving plane tickets, but not taken the time to mention it to me – her host for a decade – until I send an email, inquiring about making plans.

I receive another invitation for Thanksgiving, and accept it appreciatively, and then an invitation for museum event two days later, and accept that too. I invite people over for a relaxed evening of latkes and applesauce after the museum, and make the applesauce ahead of time.

 

Chunky Apple Sauce
 
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This started as a recipe for apple butter, but I just omitted the butter to make a delicious applesauce. The addition of wine adds a nice depth and hint of sophistication that isn't overbearing.
Author: Adapted from PBS Food's Fresh Tastes Blog
Ingredients
  • 4 large apples
  • ¼-1/2 cup light brown sugar (to taste)
  • 2 tablespoons white wine
  • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Instructions
  1. Peel, quarter, and then core the apples. Cut into 1-2 inch pieces that are roughly the same size, so they cook evenly.
  2. Place the sliced apples in a large heavy bottomed pot with a lid, and then add the sugar, wine, and cinnamon. Cover with a lid and cook over low heat for 20 minutes to allow the apples to release their liquid.
  3. Remove the lid, turn up the heat to medium, and then continue to cook for about 10 minutes to burn off extra liquid. The apples are done when they are tender and there is almost no liquid remaining in the pot. Stir frequently and be careful not to burn them. Taste the apples and add more sugar if they’re not sweet enough.
  4. When the apples are done, turn off the heat. Use a potato masher to roughly mash up the apples.
  5. Allow the apple sauce to cool, and then transfer it to an airtight container. It should keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Notes
If you want a smooth apple sauce, run it through a food processor.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // apples, comfort food

Gilroy Garlic Mac & Cheese

11.02.2013 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

The Child gets braces, and we immediately discover two things: 1) braces hurt, and 2) now there’s even less that she can eat. She mostly doesn’t mind – half the foods on the restricted list are things she didn’t eat anyway – but she misses popcorn as soon as she hears it will be banned, even before the braces go on.

I’m sympathetic, and vow that I will henceforth produce soft, bland, vegetarian food that The Child will love.

Also, I’m lucky – at least as far as cookbooks are concerned – and had recently received a review copy of The Mac + Cheese Cookbook, an assortment of, well, Macaroni & Cheese recipes.

So, the day after the braces were attached to The Child’s teeth, I settled on Gilroy Garlic Mac & Cheese, since it didn’t involve any meat nor any really radical changes to the Mac & Cheese concept. Mild gouda cheese sauce with a bit of Romano and a ton of garlic for flavor. It was pretty straightforward to make, although it did seem to involve a significant number of pans.

All the recipes in the book are made using a base white sauce, then adding cheese and other ingredients as directed. The resulting dish can then be cooked on the stovetop until done, or, if you like a nice crunchy topping like I do, you can toss it in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Either way, if you have anyone in the house, they will hover around the kitchen and ask helpful questions like, when will it be done? soon?

When it came out of the oven, I passed out forks to The Child and her friend, and although The Child and I immediately started sampling,  straight from the pan, and immediately loved it, her friend did not, and stepped back a bit.

Do you want your own plate? I asked her.

Oh, no thank you, she said. She handed me her fork. It’s just that … I’m vegan.

I could have sworn I’ve served this child pizza at this very table.

How long? I inquire.

Since a month ago, she says.

Got it, I say. This would have been helpful information to have had before she came over, but as it happens, we are all headed to a potluck: a lucky potluck, this time anyway.

Later, I let The Child know that she’s welcome to be vegan, but not while I’m cooking dinner. No problem, she says: Like I’d ever give up cheese.

I loved this recipe and we’ve made it a couple of times since, but I have one complaint about the cookbook (which I note, does include a recipe for Vegan Mac & Cheese, should The Child’s friend visit again): Nearly every recipe calls for two cups of “Mac Sauce”, but the base “Mac Sauce” recipe makes three cups. I imagine I could adjust the recipe accordingly, but it strikes me that the authors could have too. You can actually go ahead and use all three cups in this recipe, but it results in a much milder Mac & Cheese that kind of defeats the point of throwing in all that garlic in the first place.

 Gilroy Garlic Mac & Cheese

Gilroy Garlic Mac & Cheese
 
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Author: Mac + Cheese Please
Serves: 4
Ingredients
Mac Sauce (Makes 3 cups)
  • 3 cups whole milk
  • ½ cup unsalted butter
  • ½ cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Gilroy Garlic Mac
  • 4 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
  • ½ pound dried elbow pasta
  • 2 cups Mac Sauce (see recipe)
  • 1½ cups grated Gouda
  • ½ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Instructions
Make the Mac Sauce
  1. In a pot over medium heat, heat the milk until it just starts to bubble, but is not boiling, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat.
  2. In a separate, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the butter over medium heat until just melted. Add the flour; whisk constantly until the mixture turns light brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.
  3. Slowly pour the warm milk, about 1 cup at a time, into the butter-flour mixture, whisking constantly. It will get very thick at first, then thin as you add the full 3 cups.
  4. Set the pot back over medium-high heat, and continue to whisk constantly. In the next 2 to 3 minutes, the sauce should come together and become silky and thick. Dip a metal spoon into the sauce. If the sauce coats the spoon and doesn't slide off like milk, you'll know it's ready. You should be able to run your finger along the spoon and have the impression remain. Add the salt. Use the sauce immediately, or store it in the fridge for a day or two. (It will thicken in the refrigerator and may need a little more milk to thin it.)
Make the Mac & Cheese
  1. In a small bowl, mash together the garlic and butter to form a compound butter.
  2. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until a little less than al dente. Drain, rinse and drain the pasta again.
  3. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the sauce, both cheeses and the garlic butter. Cook over medium heat, stir until the cheese is barely melted, about 3 minutes. Slowly stir in the cooked pasta and cook, stirring continuously, until the dish is nice and hot, 5 more minutes. Spoon into bowls and serve hot. If you like your Mac & Cheese baked, top with breadcrumbs and bake at 400F for 15 minutes.
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Categories // Teen Tales, The Joy of Cooking Tags // cheese, comfort food, pasta

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