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Garlicky Lentil Soup with Chard and Lemon

04.15.2015 by J. Doe // 5 Comments

The Child and I flew down to California to visit my father and stepmom last week, an experience made easier by direct flights and a funny coincidence: On the TSA screening line, I noticed that the agent testing people’s hands for explosives residue looked familiar. By the time I was close enough to read her name tag, she had recognized me, and threw her arms around me, and admired how much The Child had grown, before finally swabbing our hands and wishing us safe travels.

Seven years ago, she was the dog rescuer who saved The Dog – the first dog she rescued – and helped me adopt him. I’d kept in touch with her sporadically since then, through Christmas cards and the occasional email. Lately, she has struggled with multiple jobs to make ends meet, and more recently, a divorce.

I want to tell her things get better, but for a moment, they are.

For our return trip, I foolishly select a 6 am flight, and since my father’s house is not actually very close to the airport, the night before the flight, The Child and I stay in a nearby motel with 24-hour shuttle service. The motel was nice, and the shuttle picked us up right at the door of our room, saving us the trouble of hauling our luggage across the parking lot.

The driver loads our bags, heads for the airport, and after a few minutes, turns on the radio to Journey’s Don’t Stop Believing.

It is the second time I’ve heard this song in two days. The first time, I sat with The Child on Universal Studios CityWalk, and as it played on the loudspeakers, explained to her why every time I hear this song, I think of the final scene of The Sopranos. She couldn’t follow what I was saying, since she’s never watched the scene or the series, and so when it played again on the bus, she didn’t even notice. I did, though, and brooded about death symbolism as the bus passenger next to me asked me where I was flying, and why; as The Child was selected for the speedy TSA precheck line, and I wasn’t; and as the plane took off, and I placed my feet flat on the floor and reminded myself, again, how to breathe.

That’s right.

I didn’t do much on our first day back, but made up for it on the second by unpacking, rearranging my closet, and running a host of uninteresting but useful errands like stocking up on groceries, and filling my car’s gas tank.

Then, finally, I made a simple dinner to end my simple day: I made soup.

I’ve made lentil soup a couple of times, and though I like lentil soup when I eat it elsewhere, I’ve never managed to make one at home that I enjoy. My lentil soup efforts can be summed up in one word: bland. This time, though, I got lucky, with a review copy of Rose Water and Orange Blossoms by Maureen Abood. It’s a collection of recipes from Abood’s Lebanese-American childhood; more recipes can be found on her blog of the same name.

I enjoyed the cookbook, with its lovely photography and intriguing but accessible recipes for things like yogurt marinated chicken skewers and fig jam with anise (doesn’t that sound lovely with cheese?). But the recipe that appealed to me most was Abood’s recipe for garlicky lentil soup with lemon, which, it seemed to me, might be the solution to my lentil soup woes.

It’s pretty close.

The soup is simple enough to make – cook the lentils in one pot, while cooking the garlic, onions, and chard in another, then mix it all up at the end. I loved the garlic, chard, and onion mixture, and could have eaten that by itself. I’d happily have it any day as a side dish, or perhaps underneath some baked eggs for breakfast. The lemon adds a delightful brightness to the soup. Abood uses 1/2 cup freshly chopped cilantro, which I’m not sure I’d do again, but mostly a personal issue as I was unable to locate fresh cilantro and had to use some “fresh” from a tube, which isn’t quite the same thing, especially when used in such quantity in a recipe.

The recipe claims it makes ten servings; I suppose that’s possible if you have a thimble collection you want to show off at mealtime. I found it made four bowls of fairly thick, satisfying soup; there wasn’t much in the way of leftovers, so next time, I’ll double the recipe.

This soup is a little adventurous, in its way, but also safe and soothing, the way soup should be.

garlicky lentil soup

 

Garlicky Lentil Soup with Chard and Lemon
 
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Author: adapted from Maureen Abood, Rose Water and Orange Blossoms
Ingredients
  • ½ cup lentils (brown or green)
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 tsp salt, divided
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1 large onion, finely diced
  • 1 bunch chard, any type, cleaned, trimmed, and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • ¾ tsp ground coriander
  • pepper to taste
  • 4 large garlic cloves, minced
  • ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves, minced (optional)
  • juice of ½ lemon
Instructions
  1. In a large pot, bring the lentils, water, and ½ tsp of the salt to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the lentils are just tender, about 20 minutes.
  2. Heat a large saute pan, and when hot, add the olive oil. Add the onion, chard, the remaining ½ tsp of salt, coriander, and pepper. Saute over medium heat until the chard stems and onions are soft, but not brown, about 5 minutes.
  3. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, another minute or so, then add the cilantro, if using.
  4. Add the chard mixture to the lentils, stir in the lemon juice, and continue to simmer over medium heat for a few minutes.
  5. Turn off the heat and let the soup sit about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings, as needed.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chard, garlic, lentils, soup

Chard, Raisin, and Pine Nut Tart

01.05.2013 by J. Doe // 14 Comments

My friend Anne and I have, for years, co-hosted Christmas and Thanksgiving – Thanksgiving at my house, Christmas at hers. All are welcome, and everyone brings something, but the cast of characters changes each year. Every year Anne, a vegetarian, gamely bakes a Christmas ham; I usually luck out and go home with a week’s supply of ham or even a nice bone for soup – because what is she going to do with the leftovers?

This year, the guests were – all of them – passionate cooks – so everyone brought their assigned dish (salad, bread) and then whatever they thought would make a nice addition to the meal … plus a dessert.

There was one dessert per adult – and I don’t mean one slice of pie, I mean one full pie. It was a breathtaking display.

My diet started when the leftovers ran out, but it was so good that I have no regrets.

It has always struck me as rather unfair that the star of the meal – the ham – can’t be eaten by the hostess, and not only that, she’s so busy with everything that she can’t really make something special that she can eat. So I try to make it up to her by making some special side dish – one that could take center stage.

This year, I succeeded. I found this recipe for Chard, Raisin, and Pine Nut Tart when I was hunting for my lost caramels recipe, and when I read it, could not understand why I hadn’t made it before. The most difficult part – the crust – you can easily cheat by using a store bought; I used a frozen sheet puff-pastry and it was wonderful and flaky.

The filling is a superb, moist mix of savory chard and plump, sweet raisins, with the pine nuts adding a nice texture. It all plays nicely against the flaky crust.

The recipe originates in France, where it sometimes served as a dessert, dusted with powdered sugar. I don’t see it as being a great dessert, but it doesn’t need to be a side dish – with a side of spinach salad, it would make a fabulous alternative to quiche for a light lunch. In fact, it did make a nice lunch the day after Christmas.

One final note: the raisins are plumped with water, and but soaking them in wine or perhaps some cointreau could add another level of flavor and sophistication to the tart.
IMG_8540_2

Chard, Raisin, and Pine Nut Tart
 
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This tart originates in the south of France, where it is often served for dessert dusted with powdered sugar. It makes an excellent main course or side dish.
Author: adapted from Gourmet, via epicurious
Serves: 8
Ingredients
  • ½ cup golden raisins
  • 1 cup water
  • 1½ pounds chard, stems and center ribs discarded
  • 1 large egg
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 1½ tablespoons sugar
  • ½ teaspoon finely grated fresh orange zest
  • ⅓ cup pine nuts
  • Pastry dough for a double-crust pie
Instructions
  1. Bring raisins and water to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan, then remove from heat and let stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain in a colander, then pat dry with paper towels.
  2. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400°F.
  3. Blanch chard in a large pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes. Transfer chard with a slotted spoon to a large bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain chard in a colander, then squeeze out excess water by handfuls. Coarsely chop chard.
  4. Whisk together egg, cream, granulated sugar, zest, and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Stir in pine nuts, raisins, and chard until combined.
  5. Roll out larger piece of dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin and fit into 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom (do not trim edges). Chill shell while rolling out top.
  6. Roll out smaller piece of dough on a lightly floured surface with lightly floured rolling pin. Spread chard filling evenly into shell, then top with second rectangle of dough. Using a rolling pin, roll over edges of pan to seal tart and trim edges, discarding scraps. Cut 3 steam vents in top crust with a paring knife, then put tart in pan on a baking sheet. Bake until top is golden, about 1 hour. Transfer to a rack and cool 10 minutes, then remove side of pan. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.
Notes
As always, some notes: The original recipe calls for two pounds of chard, but since I used a smaller pan than it called for, I cut back the chard, putting the raisins and pine nuts more center stage. This results in a slightly sweeter center. I also did not use pie crust, but instead a flaky pastry crust.
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This is my contribution to Weekend Cooking, hosted by Beth Fish Reads. Why not swing by and see what other savory surprises await?

Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // brunch, chard, pine nuts, raisin, recipes, vegetarian

Baked Polenta with Chard and Cheese

11.28.2012 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

I’m not sure how long it has been since The Child last ate meat, but it’s been at least a couple of years; at any rate, long enough to convince me that this isn’t just some passing phase.

I don’t mind, really. I was a vegetarian myself for about a year, in high school; unfortunately, my cooking skills as well as my mother’s were not really up to the task, so I spent a year eating Kraft Mac and Cheese and grilled swiss cheese sandwiches. I finally abandoned the effort one day when I was overpowered by the smell of my favorite fried chicken place.

If you knew how stunningly mediocre their fried chicken was – salt and grease were the primary seasonings – you would lose all respect for me.

But my cooking has come a long way since then, and, rather helpfully, I’ve learned to appreciate quite a few more vegetables since then. The Child has, unfortunately, not, but she’s getting better. Most spicy things are still off her list, but she’s more willing to give something new a try. She devoured my Artichoke Lemon Hummus, which was quite a surprise, given I spent years watching people eat hummus before I finally dipped a carrot in and tentatively sampled it for the first time.

I keep trying new things and hoping she will like them. The rule at our table is, she doesn’t have to finish something new, but she does have to try it. It seems to be a good rule, and she’s encouraged to say what it is she does or doesn’t like about something, so that she and I can both learn from the experience.

She didn’t like this Polenta and Chard casserole, which I’ve served twice now – both times on Thanksgiving – in hopes that she would put more on her plate than mashed potatoes and bread. She found it “too spicy,” but I’m not sure that cutting the red pepper would help the situation. The spice is somewhat strong, but I found it pleasantly so and didn’t feel it overwhelmed the other flavors, which come together quite nicely.

I used blue cornmeal this year, and I wouldn’t do it again: it was too fine a grind and the polenta remained hopelessly soft no matter how long I cooked it. As important, the blue cornmeal, so pretty in the back, turned a sort of  unappetizing gray color once the cheese was added to it. (When I made this dish last year with plain white cornmeal, I used rainbow chard, and the resulting dish was much, much prettier.)

I also thought I was doing the dish a favor buying fresh mozzarella cheese, which was a bit too watery and delicate. I drained it and squeezed out as much moisture as I could before adding it, in part because I was already battling the wateriness of the polenta.

The final dish – although not terribly attractive – was delicious and held its own at the Thanksgiving table. I think, though, that it would do better as the star of the show, with some white wine and perhaps some nice crusty bread. Heated-up leftovers make a wonderful, savory lunch.

Baked Polenta with Chard and Cheese
 
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Although I serve this as a savory side dish, it would also make a super main course. It is very filling.
Author: Bon Appetit (via epicurious)
Recipe type: Vegetarian
Ingredients
Chard
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large white onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • ¼ tsp dried crushed red pepper
  • 1 lb swiss chard, chopped and thick stem sections removed
Polenta
  • 3½ cups water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 cup polenta or yellow cornmeal
  • 1 cup ricotta cheese
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 cups coarsely grated mozzarella cheese
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 2-quart glass baking dish. Heat oil in heavy large deep skillet over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in garlic and crushed red pepper, then chard; cover and cook until chard is tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Uncover; stir until any excess liquid in skillet evaporates. Season with salt and pepper.
  2. Meanwhile, bring 3½ cups water and salt to boil in heavy large saucepan. Gradually stir polenta into boiling water. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until polenta is very thick, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
  3. Whisk ricotta and eggs in bowl; whisk in 1 cup hot polenta. Stir ricotta mixture into polenta in saucepan. Spread half of polenta mixture in baking dish. Spread half of chard mixture over. Sprinkle with half of mozzarella. Repeat layering with remaining polenta, chard, and cheese. Bake until puffed and brown on top, about 45 minutes. Cool 30 minutes.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chard, cheese, polenta, recipes, vegetarian

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