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Gingerbread Caramels

12.22.2012 by J. Doe // 12 Comments

The Child wants to give gifts to her teachers and friends. We do this – like most people – every year, distributing things on the day before winter break. In years past, we have gotten quite elaborate with teacher gifts, as The Child was fortunate to have a superb teacher – the same one for three years, in fact – and we couldn’t help but want to do something very special for her. I would have sent her to Hawaii if it was in my power and budget to do so.

The Child started middle school this year, though, and what that means – apart from more homework – is that she now has eight teachers, an advisor, and assorted other school staff that she considers to be gift-worthy. She wants to give something to the head of school, she tells me, because sometimes he joins her gaggle of girls at lunch in the cafeteria. You get the idea. It’s a long list.

I ask her what she had in mind to give people, and as I’m headed out to Costco, she tells me: Gift cards. For everyone.

Everyone like Starbucks, she says. Do that.

I actually consider this a viable option until I spend a half-hour wandering the gift-card section at Costco and discover there’s not one gift-card bundle available at all for Starbucks, or for less than $25 per card for anything else.

I come home and suggest to The Child that maybe it’s better if we make something. She likes that idea and remembers the Spiced Apple Cider Caramels I made last year.

My class loved them and my teacher did too, she says. All my teachers this year will love them.

It’s a great plan, and I pick up some heavy cream and plan to make the caramels the day before, so they’ll be fresh. There’s only one small hitch: The recipe was from another blog, and it isn’t there anymore. I’m sure I printed it out, but I can’t find it, and I don’t have tons of time.

If only Google could search my house for me.

I find another recipe for Spiced Apple Cider caramels, but it seems, I don’t know – off. So I search Pinterest for “caramels” to see what appears that looks workable and doesn’t involve another trip to the store. Someone has pinned a Martha Stewart recipe for Gingerbread Caramels, which sound delightful and seasonal and involve four cups of heavy cream – which I have, but, really Martha? – as well as a vast amount of corn syrup, which I don’t.

This time, Google is more helpful, and I find this recipe for Gingerbread Caramels on Good Life Eats. The recipe was simple enough, and the caramels were soft and chewy with the perfect notes of molasses, ginger, and warming spices. It was hard to send them all off to school, but send them I did, in little baggies trimmed with Christmas paper.

I’ve made some minor adjustments to the original recipe, giving the exact spice quantities I used; my cooking times also varied from those originally stated, but what’s important with candy-making isn’t the time, but the temperature.

I learned the temperature lesson when I made a batch of the Spiced Apple Cider caramels from the new recipe. It indicated cooking the syrup to a temperature of 255 degrees, resulting in a too-hard candy, which was also unfortunately a bit too sugary-sweet.

I finally found the original Spiced Apple Cider Caramel recipe buried under a pile of recipes I’ve been meaning to try. I’d blame the Elf on the Shelf for hiding it there, but I don’t have one, as far as I know. They kind of scare me, and it’s not like I need any help misplacing things.

Happy Holidays, everyone. Thank you for joining me this year!

Gingerbread Caramels

Gingerbread Caramels
 
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Author: adapted from Good Life Eats
Ingredients
  • 1½ cups heavy cream
  • 8 tablespoons butter
  • ¾ teaspoon ground ginger
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • ⅛ teaspoon allspice
  • ⅛ teaspoon cloves
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • ½ cup molasses
  • ½ cup water
Instructions
  1. Line a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, then lightly oil parchment.
  2. Bring cream and butter to a simmer in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and set aside.
  3. Pre-measure the spices and salt out into a small bowl. Pre-measure the vanilla into another small bowl. You will need to access these ingredients very quickly at the end of the recipe.
  4. Combine the sugar, molasses, and water in a large heavy saucepan over medium high heat. Boil, without stirring but gently swirling pan, until all of the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is a deep amber color.
  5. Turn heat to low. Carefully stir in cream mixture (mixture will bubble up). Return heat to medium to medium-high and simmer, stirring frequently, until caramel temperature registers no higher than 248°F on thermometer. Turn off the heat and immediately whisk in the vanilla, salt and spices. Pour into prepared pan.
  6. Once the mixture has cooled slightly but is still tacky to the touch, sprinkle the tops very lightly with additional kosher salt, if desired.
  7. Allow the caramels to completely cool before cutting. Wrap in squares of parchment or wax paper.
Notes
There are lots of suggestions out there for how to make cutting caramels easier. Here are mine: 1) sharpen your knife, then 2) run your knife under very hot water before each cut.
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3.1.09

 

This is my contribution to Weekend Cooking, hosted by Beth Fish Reads. Why not swing by and see what other sweet treats await? There are no calories if you just read. I hope.

Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // candy, recipes

Apple Jellies

12.15.2012 by J. Doe // 12 Comments

Alice Waters is one of my culinary heroes (I guess technically, she’s a heroine), her laurels mostly resting on her superb and simple recipe for roast chicken. I found it in the early 1990’s in a cooking magazine that was full of complex, multi-step recipes involving asterisked ingredient lists with notes about where you could mail order all the unique things you would need to be a true gourmet home cook.

Her recipe was the one thing I clipped from that magazine: so simple and to the point that I only referred to it once or twice before I had it memorized. I’ve served it dozens of times over the years, always to raves.

I love simple cooking, and being so busy this year celebrating my newfound freedom and packing what remains of The Departed’s possessions, I didn’t have tons of time to make anything elaborate for my annual cookie exchange party in any case. I found Alice Waters’ recipe for Apple Jellies at the back of The Art of Simple Food, and it seemed ideal: Three ingredients, cooked on the stove. What could go wrong?

Everything, it seems. The road to hell is paved with Apple Jellies.

I cooked down the apples together with the water,  ran them through a food mill, and then cooked the resulting pink puree down for an additional hour. I checked that it held a mounded shape before I stopped cooking. I spread the resulting thickened pink mass into a baking pan lined with parchment paper.

After letting it sit overnight where the cat – who apparently likes apples – couldn’t get at it, I inverted the mass onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, to let it dry a further 24 hours. The instructions seem to indicate it should be possible to cut it into squares at this point.

It wasn’t, but the instructions helpfully tell you what to do if this happens: Stick the baking sheet into a 150-degree oven for an hour “or more” until you have a nice mass of jell that you can cut into squares that will stay that way.

I let it set in such an oven for an hour. I tested it. I inverted it onto another baking sheet so the bottom could dry, and put it back into the oven. I tested it again, I inverted it again.

I took it out of the oven when I went to bed, hoping it would be cuttable when I woke up the next day … which it wasn’t … so I started the process over again. At one point, I put the jell-that-wouldn’t in the oven, left the house to retrieve The Child from a slumber party, had a cup of coffee with the other parents, and returned home to find the jellies … still not jelled.

Five hours in the oven later, they were sorta-kinda done.

I tossed the squares in sugar and served them that day at my annual cookie party. The guests all liked them but agreed: these are not worth five hours of oven time. None of us could come up with anything that was worth five hours of oven time apart from, say, a Christmas ham.

The next morning, I was sorting all the extra cookies into gift boxes, and there was my plate of apple jellies, sitting in a sort of syrup, which was tasty but not exactly appealing to look at. The jellies no longer sparkled with sugar, but glistened with ooze.

I didn’t take a picture, because I like you and no one should have to look at that, unless they buy a ticket to see The Blob with a complete understanding of what they’re getting into.

I’m providing the recipe in case you’re feeling intrepid and or perhaps can see where I might have gone wrong. Maybe cameo apples were a bad idea. Maybe my climate is too moist to begin with. Or maybe … you have some idea?

Update: I tried the recipe again and found the problem.

Apple Jellies
 
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Author: Alice Waters, from The Art of Simple Food
Ingredients
  • 8 medium apples (3 pounds), washed, quartered, and cored
  • 1 cup water
  • 1½ cups sugar
  • juice of one lemon
Instructions
  1. Lightly oil an 8x8 baking dish with flavorless vegetable oil. Line the dish with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper.
  2. In a large heavy pot, cook apples and water, covered, until apples are soft, about 20 minutes.
  3. Pass the mixture through a food mill.
  4. Return the puree to the pot and add sugar and lemon juice. Simmer over low heat, stirring often, about an hour. As the mixture cooks and reduces, it starts to bubble and thicken. Be careful of spattering.
  5. The puree is done when it holds a mounded shape (in theory). To be sure, briefly chill a small amount on a plate in the freezer. It should look and feel jelled.
  6. Spread the mixture evenly into the prepared dish. Cool for several hours or overnight. When completely cooled, invert onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Remove the top layer of parchment paper. Leave to dry uncovered overnight.
  7. The paste should be firm enough to cut. If not, put the paste into a 150 degree oven for an hour or more until firm. Maybe even five hours. Or more.
  8. When it's done - if ever - cut the jellies into squares, toss with sugar, and admire how pretty they are, if only briefly.
Notes
When I say be careful of spattering, I'm serious. This stuff gets HOT and spatters a LOT. It's just really uncooperative, if not downright mean.
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3.1.09

 

This is my contribution to Weekend Cooking, hosted by Beth Fish Reads. Why not swing by and see if the other participants had better luck?

Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // candy, kitchen disasters, recipes, vegan

Candied Orange Peel

12.08.2012 by J. Doe // 20 Comments

Every year around this time, I host a holiday cookie exchange. It was one of those things that kind of started on a lark, but then the next year people asked if I was going to host it again, so I did, and then the same thing happened the following year.

One year, I was too busy to do it and actually got phone calls asking if people had missed the evite and/or was everything okay?

It’s all rather gratifying to feel so appreciated.

Then again, you’d have to be a real Scrooge not to appreciate the event. I put all the leaves in my dining table, which groans under the weight of all the cookies. I like to bake, it’s true, but so do many of my friends. There’s not a Toll House in the bunch, and nobody has ever shamed themselves by showing up with a plastic box from Safeway.

Last year, I needed some candied orange peel for some recipe I planned to make – I don’t remember what – and I priced it out at Whole Foods (I know, I know). They wanted an egregious sum of money for orange peel, sugar, and water. But to give them the benefit of the doubt, it does take a bit of time to make candied peel – so that must be what we’re paying them for.

I’ll ignore the fact that the time is mostly spent letting them dry out. It’s the holidays, and I’m feeling generous. Tis the season and all that.

So I made the candied peel and it all disappeared from the cookie exchange table. Every last bit of it.

This year, I sent out my party invite and received several RSVP’s that inquired: Are you making that candied orange peel again?

Well, if something so simple makes my friends happy, then of course.

The recipe below works equally well with grapefruit peel. Probably lemon peel, too, but not with the lemons I bought – their peels were borderline intransigent. And one final note: when you finish cooking the peel in the sugar syrup, don’t throw out the syrup! You can store it and use it for Italian sodas and other things. It has a marvelous, intense orange flavor.

Candied Orange Peel
 
Print
Prep time
15 mins
Cook time
1 hour
Total time
1 hour 15 mins
 
The peel needs a couple of days to dry out, so you'll need to make these well ahead of time.
Author: Adapted from Bon Appetit, via Epicurious
Ingredients
  • 3 large oranges
  • 4 cups sugar, divided
  • 3 cups water
Instructions
  1. Cut top and bottom off each orange, then cut peel on each orange into 4 vertical segments. Remove each segment (including white pith) in 1 piece. Cut into ¼-inch-wide strips. Cook in large pot of boiling water 15 minutes; drain, rinse, and drain again.
  2. Bring 3 cups sugar and 3 cups water to boil in medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add peel. Return to boil. Reduce heat; simmer until peel is very soft, about 45 minutes.
  3. Use a slotted spoon to remove peel from pot; reserve the syrup for another use.
  4. Toss peel and 1 cup sugar on rimmed baking sheet, separating strips. Lift peel from sugar; transfer to racks. Let stand until coating is dry, 1 to 2 days.
Notes
The syrup that is left behind is sweet and infused with intense orange flavor. You can use it for Italian sodas, or to mix into cocktails that call for simple syrup, and probably a hundred other things. Tell me what you use it for, I can't wait for some new ideas.
Wordpress Recipe Plugin by EasyRecipe
3.1.09

 

This is my contribution to Weekend Cooking, hosted by Beth Fish Reads. Why not swing by and see what other sweet surprises await?

 

Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // candy, orange, recipes, vegan

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