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Blueberry Focaccia

05.23.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

The Child was on a school trip this week, leaving me on my own. Although it feels like I should have taken the opportunity to go on a trip somewhere myself, the truth of the matter is, there isn’t anywhere in particular I want to go. Or at least, there isn’t anywhere in particular I want to go that I can get to and from in between the times I need to deliver her at and retrieve her from the airport.

But having one’s house to oneself is a sort of vacation, especially when one suddenly has more time, fewer schedules. For example, there’s no one to drive to school in the morning, so I can wake up a little later – or I could have, had The Child not forgotten there was a time difference and called at 5am, urgently needing a document emailed to her.

I should have minded, but it was nice to be needed, just for a moment: A moment isn’t the same as all the time.

The rest of the time was my own; I came and went on my own schedule, and ate and cooked as I pleased.

Left to my own devices, with no one to please but myself, I cooked a couple of meals, a stir-fried dinner of sausage and vegetables, and a lunch salad of leftover chicken, grilled bread, and fresh spinach that was pretty tasty. But mostly, I didn’t feel like cooking, and preferred a big hunk of crusty bread with lots of butter, and a side of fresh berries. Simple, satisfying.

One of the leftovers I had was this lovely focaccia bread that I made before The Child left. It’s from Samantha Seneviratne’s upcoming cookbook, The New Sugar and Spice, which is available in the UK, while the US edition will be available this fall and can be pre-ordered on Amazon. I was lucky to receive an advance copy for review purposes, and it’s one of the nicer baking books I’ve seen recently: Recipes are organized by type of spice used in the recipes (Cinnamon, Cardamom), with each section introduced with an essay that is a little bit of personal reminiscence,  and a lot more history of the spice, how it is used, its origins.

The recipe is in the cinnamon section, but since I love the combination on blueberries with lemon, I swapped out the cinnamon for some grated lemon zest. It’s a very simple, forgiving recipe – you can use any kind of berry, or use the cinnamon, or maybe some vanilla sugar – whatever you want to top it with would probably work. I got a little impatient during the last rise, so I probably didn’t let it rise enough, but it was still light and tasty – and definitely bread, not cake, which is just as well, because it doesn’t need any more sweetness with all the  juicy berries and sweet, crunchy sugar crust on top.

It’s a lovely way to start the day, especially a warm, lazy day, when you have no particular place you need to be except right where you are.

 

blueberry focaccia

Blueberry Focaccia
 
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Author: adapted from Samantha Seneviratne, Sugar and Spice
Ingredients
  • ½ cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled, divided
  • 2 cups bread flour
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup sugar, divided
  • 2½ tsp active dry yeast
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1½ cups warm (not hot) water
  • 2 cups fresh blueberries
  • ¾ tsp grated lemon zest
Instructions
  1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flours, ¼ cup of the sugar, the yeast, and the salt.
  2. In a small bowl, combine the warm water, ¼ cup of the melted butter, and the egg.
  3. Turn mixer on low speed, add the water mixture, and mix until a dough starts to form. Switch to the dough hook, and use it to knead the dough about five minutes, until smooth and elastic. The dough should still be somewhat sticky; this is fine.
  4. Butter a large bowl. Form the dough into a ball and place it into the bowl, covered with plastic wrap. Set the bowl in a warm place until it doubles in size.
  5. Remove the dough from the bowl onto a buttered work surface, and knead it several times, then put it back in the bowl until it has doubled again.
  6. Spread two tablespoons of the remaining melted butter in the bottom of a jelly-roll pan. Tip the dough into the pan, then use your fingers to stretch it out to fill the pan. Set the dough aside to rise (yes, again), until it is higher than the pan sides.
  7. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup of sugar with the lemon zest.
  8. When the dough has finished rising, heat over to 450 degrees. While you wait for the oven to heat, use your fingers to poke small dimples all over the dough surface. Then, spread the remaining melted butter all over the top. Sprinkle half the lemon-sugar mixture on top of the butter, then scatter the berries over the sugar. Sprinkle the remaining sugar mixture on top of the berries.
  9. Bake until it's a delightful shade of brown and completely set, even under the berries, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly in the pan, then move to a cutting board, cut into pieces, and enjoy while still warm.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blueberries, bread, breakfast

Mixed Berry Crumble

08.11.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When I moved to Oregon, I was delighted to discover I could pick two things on the side of the road: hazelnuts and blackberries. It turned out that the hazelnuts were actually on someone’s property, and possibly grown for profit, since Oregon is a major producer of hazelnuts.

The blackberries, however, were growing wild, all over the place, which I found delightful. When The Foreigner and I bought our house in Portland, I mentioned to our realtor my plan to put some blackberry and raspberry bushes in my backyard. They seem to grow so well here, I said.

I thought nothing could rattle our realtor, until that moment. Her eyes popped, but she quickly regained her composure, tactfully suggesting that I shouldn’t give up any of my limited yard space to grow something that I can pick so freely anyway.

I soldiered on: But it would be so nice to be able to go pick some in my own yard, to put on my cereal in the mornings.

Her eyes got big again. You don’t want these in your yard, she said. They will take over your yard; you will never, ever get rid of them. You’ll hire a service to get rid of them, and pay a fortune, and they’ll come back. Don’t do it.

I suspect the part she wanted to finish the sentence like this: … because I’ll never be able to sell this house if you do.

I learned two things from her that day: First, what the phrase invasive species means, and later, after we signed the contracts, how to pronounce Oregon properly (“not Ore-gone, Ore-gun. Repeat after me: Gonna get a gun, and move to Ore-gun.”)

I never did get a gun, but I did successfully sell the house with its blackberry-free yard a year later, and every August I head outside and pick fresh, ripe, blackberries that grow, well, everywhere in the Pacific Northwest. On Sunday, I took the Red Dog out for a walk, and came home with a Safeway bag full of fresh, free berries.

I was lazy, too – I only picked the ones I didn’t have to go on my tiptoes to reach.

Last year, around this time, I made Dahlia Bakery’s Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Berries and Cinnamon Streusel, which is a great use for blackberries, but after making Blueberry Buckle twice, well, I was kind of coffeecaked out. Also, I had foolishly purchased far more blueberries than I needed the second time I made the buckle, so not only did I have an abundance of fresh blackberries, I was overloaded with blueberries.

Fortunately, David Tanis came to my rescue with this recipe from A Platter of Figs: Mixed Berry Crumble. It calls for 6 pints (12 cups) of berries, but they can be any mixture of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry. I used half blueberries and half blackberries – use whatever you have on hand and is in season.

The wonderful thing about a recipe like this is how it is deceptively simple: It seems like there should be more work involved getting that much flavor out of berries, but there isn’t. Everything is there to highlight the berries, full stop.

This was one of those things that I just kept having a little bit more of – not too sweet, not too gooey, nothing but delicious berries and crunch.

I used up all my blueberries, which was a relief, and all my blackberries, which was a little disappointing as it seemed like I had picked more than I really did. But I walked the Red Dog again this morning, and there were more berries along the road, waiting for me to pick them.

 

Mixed Berry Crumble

Mixed Berry Crumble
 
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Cook time
1 hour
Total time
1 hour
 
Author: David Tanis, A Platter of Figs
Serves: 6
Ingredients
  • 1½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 8 tbsp cold butter, cut into small pieces
  • 6 pints of raspberries, blackberries, or blueberries, or a mix
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
  2. For the topping, combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a medium-sized bowl. Add the butter, and work it into the flour mixture with your fingertips until crumbly.
  3. In a large bowl, gently toss the berries with the sugar. Pile the fruit into a large gratin dish or into two pie plates. Spoon the topping over the fruit.
  4. Bake for an hour, or until the topping is browned. Cool for 15 minutes before serving.
Notes
6 pints is 12 cups. I used equal parts of blueberries and blackberries.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blackberries, blueberries

Blueberry Buckle

07.13.2014 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

The Child is a teaching assistant at swim class three mornings a week this summer, but the rest of the time, she’s home. Mostly, she’s enjoying a 1970s-style summer, which consists of watching TV and eating whenever she’s hungry.

Teenagers are always hungry.

People who swim burn a lot of calories, which makes them hungry.

I’m not sure a word exists that can adequately capture the extent of The Child’s need for food.

Since I’m working during the day, and the only store within walking distance of our house is a 7-11, which has its culinary limitations, The Child begins to avail herself of the kitchen. At first, this involves googling recipes on her iPhone, which doesn’t turn out half badly when she makes a pasta dish that turns out to be Marcella Hazan’s Spaghetti Aio e Oio. She discovers some blackberries in the freezer – the last of the bunch I picked and froze last August – and makes muffins using The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook‘s recipe for blueberry muffins, but the substitution doesn’t really work out. Undeterred, she sets out to make a rich chocolate cake, which breaks her heart when it breaks into two pieces on being removed from the pan, and breaks mine by requiring two hours of baking on an 82 degree day in a house with no air conditioning.

I don’t want to discourage her newfound love of cooking, and I’ve learned in the past not to offer advice, because she typically replies with, I already know that, I saw a youtube video about it. Suddenly, though, she’s asking questions and listening to my replies. She complains about how hard it is to peel garlic, and I show her how to smash the skins off using the flat side of a knife. When the cake breaks into pieces, she calms down quickly when I explain that no one will ever know what it looks like once it’s frosted, and she takes my advice and simply pushes the two pieces together and frosts them into one.

The only real problem we have is that I can barely get into my own kitchen, and when I do, I find it has been re-organized in a way that may be logical, even improved – but that doesn’t help me find anything where I expect to find it.

I do manage to get into the kitchen on Friday night, and even though it’s a scorcher (by Seattle standards), I am determined to bake something with blueberries, which The Child recently announced she doesn’t really like when they’re fresh, which would have been a handy thing to know before I went to Costco. As it stands, I have a refrigerator full of fresh blueberries, which, to be honest, aren’t really my thing, either. So I bake them, in spite of the heat, into a blueberry buckle, a recipe that popped up on my Facebook feed, courtesy of Bon Appetit magazine.

The recipe says that a buckle is like a “glorified blueberry muffin,” and then goes on to show pictures of several individual sized muffins, which a number of readers complain is misleading. But the definition of buckle is a single-layer cake with a streusel topping, which gives it a “buckled” appearance, and if that is what you’re expecting, well, that is what you get – and it may be the best one you’ll ever eat.

The cake is satisfying, nearly decadent, with butter- and cream-rich batter that is heavily studded with blueberries. The streusel crisps magically and forms a crisp, cinnamon layer that plays perfectly against the moist cake below.

You won’t mind when the smell of the baking buckle fills up your house, even in the summer heat, I promise you.

We took the buckle with us on Saturday, when we had an early start to a day of boating: We were invited along on a trip to Blake Island with the Feisty Girl’s new owner. We hadn’t seen her for a month, and in that time, she had made her new home joyfully on the boat. She jumped with delight when she saw us and the Red Dog, and spent the day showing us what a confident and well-behaved girl she’s growing into. She did sit and snuggle with me for a bit, and when I had a piece of the buckle, she gladly helped herself to a large bite of it, right out of my hand.

 

Blueberry Buckle

 

Blueberry Buckle
 
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Author: Salt Water Farm (Rockport, ME) via Bon Appetit
Serves: 6
Ingredients
Topping
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ cup (1/2 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½" pieces
Buckle
  • ¼ cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
  • 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ¾ teaspoons kosher salt
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 1 pound fresh (or frozen, thawed) blueberries
Instructions
  1. Whisk sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter and rub in with your fingers until mixture comes together in large clumps; set aside.
  2. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter and flour a nine-inch springform pan. Whisk baking powder, salt, and 1½ cups flour in a medium bowl.
  3. Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat sugar and ¼ cup butter until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in egg and vanilla just to combine, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low and gradually add dry ingredients, then cream; mix just to combine. Gently fold in blueberries. Scrape batter into prepared pan, smooth top, and place pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Evenly sprinkle topping over.
  4. Bake buckle until top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 80–90 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cool before unmolding and serving.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blueberries

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