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Mixed Berry Crumble

08.11.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When I moved to Oregon, I was delighted to discover I could pick two things on the side of the road: hazelnuts and blackberries. It turned out that the hazelnuts were actually on someone’s property, and possibly grown for profit, since Oregon is a major producer of hazelnuts.

The blackberries, however, were growing wild, all over the place, which I found delightful. When The Foreigner and I bought our house in Portland, I mentioned to our realtor my plan to put some blackberry and raspberry bushes in my backyard. They seem to grow so well here, I said.

I thought nothing could rattle our realtor, until that moment. Her eyes popped, but she quickly regained her composure, tactfully suggesting that I shouldn’t give up any of my limited yard space to grow something that I can pick so freely anyway.

I soldiered on: But it would be so nice to be able to go pick some in my own yard, to put on my cereal in the mornings.

Her eyes got big again. You don’t want these in your yard, she said. They will take over your yard; you will never, ever get rid of them. You’ll hire a service to get rid of them, and pay a fortune, and they’ll come back. Don’t do it.

I suspect the part she wanted to finish the sentence like this: … because I’ll never be able to sell this house if you do.

I learned two things from her that day: First, what the phrase invasive species means, and later, after we signed the contracts, how to pronounce Oregon properly (“not Ore-gone, Ore-gun. Repeat after me: Gonna get a gun, and move to Ore-gun.”)

I never did get a gun, but I did successfully sell the house with its blackberry-free yard a year later, and every August I head outside and pick fresh, ripe, blackberries that grow, well, everywhere in the Pacific Northwest. On Sunday, I took the Red Dog out for a walk, and came home with a Safeway bag full of fresh, free berries.

I was lazy, too – I only picked the ones I didn’t have to go on my tiptoes to reach.

Last year, around this time, I made Dahlia Bakery’s Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Berries and Cinnamon Streusel, which is a great use for blackberries, but after making Blueberry Buckle twice, well, I was kind of coffeecaked out. Also, I had foolishly purchased far more blueberries than I needed the second time I made the buckle, so not only did I have an abundance of fresh blackberries, I was overloaded with blueberries.

Fortunately, David Tanis came to my rescue with this recipe from A Platter of Figs: Mixed Berry Crumble. It calls for 6 pints (12 cups) of berries, but they can be any mixture of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry. I used half blueberries and half blackberries – use whatever you have on hand and is in season.

The wonderful thing about a recipe like this is how it is deceptively simple: It seems like there should be more work involved getting that much flavor out of berries, but there isn’t. Everything is there to highlight the berries, full stop.

This was one of those things that I just kept having a little bit more of – not too sweet, not too gooey, nothing but delicious berries and crunch.

I used up all my blueberries, which was a relief, and all my blackberries, which was a little disappointing as it seemed like I had picked more than I really did. But I walked the Red Dog again this morning, and there were more berries along the road, waiting for me to pick them.

 

Mixed Berry Crumble

Mixed Berry Crumble
 
Print
Cook time
1 hour
Total time
1 hour
 
Author: David Tanis, A Platter of Figs
Serves: 6
Ingredients
  • 1½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 8 tbsp cold butter, cut into small pieces
  • 6 pints of raspberries, blackberries, or blueberries, or a mix
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
  2. For the topping, combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a medium-sized bowl. Add the butter, and work it into the flour mixture with your fingertips until crumbly.
  3. In a large bowl, gently toss the berries with the sugar. Pile the fruit into a large gratin dish or into two pie plates. Spoon the topping over the fruit.
  4. Bake for an hour, or until the topping is browned. Cool for 15 minutes before serving.
Notes
6 pints is 12 cups. I used equal parts of blueberries and blackberries.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blackberries, blueberries

Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Berries and Cinnamon Streusel

06.14.2013 by J. Doe //

Some times, there’s nothing left to do but eat cake – it’s like waving the white flag at life. I’d like to say I gave in to fine-crumbed despair on a Friday, after a long week, but I didn’t. It was just a Monday.

A Monday from someplace that isn’t heaven.

I ordered the new dishwasher but had to wait a couple of weeks for the particular one I wanted, which was okay, especially because, just after I placed the order, the old dishwasher miraculously started working again (I’m not dead yet!). I thought my appliances were rising up against me, but a few days later, the dishwasher had a relapse. I’ve never been so happy about a major appliance failure before, and likely never will again: I’m not crazy, it really did need to be replaced.

I turned my attention to the grill in the backyard. It’s summer, after all – it’s time to grill. I didn’t use the grill much last summer, but this year I’m all excited about the possibilities. Also, I have a dinner guest on Friday that I want to make a flank steak for. Since I don’t know the precise time of the guest’s arrival, something that can be tossed on the grill and be ready whenever is the best possible plan. I love this plan.

It’s fortunate that I did a trial run of this plan. I turned on the grill and made some “hamburgers” for myself and The Child, and though I managed to heat them through, I couldn’t get the temperature very high and the whole thing lacked the usual sizzle. The tank seemed to be nearly empty, so I decided that was probably the issue, and took the tank to be refilled.

I know that doesn’t sound like a big deal to you, but it is to me: I’ve never filled a propane tank before. I thought it might be something that I would be expected to know how to do myself, and had visions of some big guy giving me a look that said “Silly, helpless women,” before showing me how to do something ridiculously easy and yet, highly flammable. So it was quite a relief when the gal at the gas station said, no, we do that for you.

And all was well with the world for one brief moment. The next moment, though, I connected the tank and turned on the grill and still couldn’t get much of a flame.

I will spare you the story of how I disassembled the grill’s rusty innards; the punch line is, I either have to transplant some new innards or transplant a whole new grill. The latter will be hard on my pocketbook, while the former apparently involves a socket wrench.

Either way, I won’t have a working grill by Friday, so I have to come up with a new dinner plan. I know this doesn’t seem like it should be a hard thing, but the last thing I made for dinner – shrimp-stuffed peppers – was shockingly bad. I don’t know what to make. How can I? I don’t know what will break next.

I know sometimes the universe is pointing you along a path, saying, Go this way. But I can’t see the path. My view is obstructed by all the broken appliances.

I still have the library copy of The Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, which I’ve had for so long the library has sent me an actual letter about it and I finally decided it might be time to get my own copy and return theirs. But it was still around, and still had that nice recipe for sour cream coffee cake with blackberries, and I had all the ingredients I needed including a bag of frozen blackberries, and all of this could only mean one thing.

The universe was telling me to make cake. So I did.

And it was good.

It was so good, in fact, that I managed to forget I don’t especially like blackberries. I often have them around because they grow wild in the area, and The Child and I like berry-picking, even if we’re not too crazy for the specific berry in question. They’re plentiful and free, so who are we to argue? The coffee cake is light and moist and delightfully buttery, and the berries add a sprightly tang.

I learned a few things, too. First: sift, sift, sift your flour. It really is the difference between a cake and a superlative, light confection – well worth the extra couple of minutes it takes. Next, it’s important to bring your ingredients to room temperature when baking, as it allows them to trap and hold air better. So, what to do when you decide at the last minute, I had a really lousy day that only cake will solve? Douglas offers one suggestion in the opening chapter of the cookbook – put your eggs in a bowl of warm tap water for a few minutes. This works well for butter, too, I discovered.

One thing that didn’t go so well on this recipe was the streusel topping: I used the food processor and ended up with a big lump of streusel that I then had to tear into little-ish pieces, which then sort of melted down and formed a giant cinnamon crisp layer on the top of the cake. It tasted great and honestly, didn’t look that bad – it just wasn’t what I was going for. I did a bit of research and learned that one is done mixing streusel when it is mostly mixed – there should be little bits of butter and so on.  I’m going to try this next time I try a streusel – my last several efforts have all had the same problem.

I give Douglas credit, though, since even when I screwed up his streusel, it still worked: The Child pronounced the whole thing delicious and liked the topping best.

Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Cinnamon Streusel

 

Sour Cream Coffee Cake with Berries and Cinnamon Streusel
 
Print
Prep time
25 mins
Cook time
45 mins
Total time
1 hour 10 mins
 
Author: The Dahlia Bakery Cookbook
Serves: 12
Ingredients
Streusel
  • ½ cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup packed brown sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 6 tbsp cold unsalted butter
Cake
  • 2½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 1 tbsp vanilla
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 cups berries (blueberries, blackberries, or raspberries)
Instructions
  1. Preheat over to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9x13 pan and set aside.
  2. Make the streusel: combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a bowl. Dice the cold butter, add it to the mixture, and blend with your fingers until crumbly. Set aside.
  3. Make the cake: Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda into a bowl, and set aside. In an electric mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Scrape down the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each and scraping down the bowl as needed. Mix in the sour cream, vanilla, and salt. Add the dry ingredients a third at a time, mixing until just blended. Fold in the berries.
  4. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread it evenly with a spatula. Sprinkle the streusel over the top.
  5. Bake 45-50 minutes, until a tester comes out mostly clean. Cool in the pan in a wire rack. Cut into 12 squares.
Notes
Sift the flour well before measuring. The batter will be thick at the end so fold the berries in gently. Stop blending the streusel when it gets crumbly.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blackberries

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