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Ricotta, Lemon, and Blackberry Muffins

07.15.2017 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

Most people can tell when it’s rhubarb season because they go in their back yard garden, and see rhubarb growing. It’s a good method, and it goes without saying, a fairly obvious one.

As with so many things, it doesn’t work quite like that at my house. It could, of course, but when I started my little garden, I immediately filled the planting beds with every type of herb and four or so zucchini plants; later that year, I had learned the answers to important gardening questions, such as:  What Does Slug Damage Look Like?  How Do You Get Rid of Powdery Mildew? and the all-important, Why Shouldn’t I Grow Four Zucchini Plants?

When the main beds were full, The Child requested a spot to grow strawberries, and located an unused sunny spot right next to the similarly unused shed. The shed once had a function – it stored gardening equipment owned and theoretically used by The Departed, but left behind when he departed and subsequently discovered to be unusable (weed whacker with missing cords, leaky gas can for use with nonexistent lawn mower), expired (10-pound bags of moss-be-gone and fertilizer, each with a few handfulls missing), or simply unrelated to gardening (half-full cans of latex paint, an outgrown bicycle). When the beds were put in, I put a few useful-seeming implements into a small box, which I stored in a convenient location, near the beds. So the large shed sits, mostly empty and completely out of sight. 

We put a small bed next to the shed, and the cleaning lady gifted several strawberry plants, and since there was a little space left, I added a rhubarb plant. I made muffins the first year, and posted the recipe here.  Each year since, I notice one day that my blog suddenly has a lot of traffic, most of it coming from pinterest and all of it going to that one recipe.

When this happens, I go outside and discover I have rhubarb, and lots of it. Then I make muffins, too. And jam. And cookies. And a pie, if I feel like pie, or a cake, if I feel like cake. If my neighbor has brought apples from her tree, I make rhubarb applesauce and share it with her.

I give rhubarb away to neighbors, and when they’ve had enough, too, I freeze some. Sometimes I use it during the winter, and even then, I often still have some when winter becomes spring and rhubarb muffin bakers re-appear on this blog, and my rhubarb re-appears outside.

Blackberries are a somewhat similar story, or at least, they were until this year. They grow wild in the area, by which I mean, untended spaces are quickly overrun with masses of thorny bushes. They crowd out everything else, and make nice homes for bunnies and rodents. There are service companies that have entire businesses based on removing blackberry bushes, some of which employ herds of goats to deal with the problem.

We live next door to a community college with a large property, some of it undeveloped, and while this means that there are an assortment of critters that live there and pay us occasional visits – a regrettable assortment of moles, rats, raccoons, as well as, more pleasantly, rabbits and the occasional deer – it also means that every year, in August, I can walk the college grounds on my lunch hour and pick blackberries for baking, for eating, and of course, for freezing.

That is, until last year. The the bulldozers appeared; the blackberries disappeared. Bunnies appear in my back yard, to the delight of my cats; rats appear in my neighbors’ garage, to the dismay of everyone on our block.

I could have found another blackberry-picking spot last year, but there was no urgency about it, since I was still working through the numerous bags in my freezer, not to mention an ample supply of blackberry jam, so I didn’t. This year, I made muffins, and upon discovering the muffins were quite delicious, decided to make a second batch, only to find I had finally exhausted the seemingly inexhaustible supply of frozen wild blackberries.

Finding the recipe – like having endless, free wild blackberries – was a bit of good fortune; I received a review copy of The Harvest Baker, by Ken Haedrich. I had previously enjoyed a book he co-authored with the late, great Marion Cunningham, the Maple Syrup Cookbook, so I was pleased to receive another of his books and give it a try.

As baking books go, it’s pretty straightforward, which is one of the things I enjoy about Haedrich’s books: They are meant to be cooked from. Yes, there are a couple of recipes that veer off into Look At Me Being Unique territory, notably a recipe for Whole Wheat Blueberry Beet Muffins, which are certainly colorful, if not enticing.

I showed the photo of those to The Child, who remarked, You know, we can all learn something from Jurassic Park: Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.

Still, that was just one recipe, and there are numerous others that we found incredibly enticing. As it happens, The Child’s favorite cookies – which I have, oddly, never shared on this site – are Lemon Ricotta cookies, soft, tender, and tart, so I was delighted to find a similar offering, in muffin form: Ricotta, Lemon, and Blackberry Muffins.

They were everything I hoped they would be: Tender and light muffins, brightly flavored with lemon and studded with sweet-tart blackberries. They don’t require any special equipment, just a mixing bowl, and if you happen to have blackberries in your freezer, you can toss them into the batter still frozen.

The Child adored them, and they were gone in just a couple of days, leaving me with the problem I never expected to have: I had no more blackberries with which to make another batch. There were other recipes of interest, so I did make more muffins, notably a batch of strawberry rhubarb muffins that were made special by the addition of some cardamom to the batter – rhubarb and cardamom, like rhubarb and strawberries, are made for each other.

But what The Child wanted most was more of these lovely muffins, so we’ve already begun to keep an eye out for the white blackberry flowers that, in August, will replenish our stock, even if we have to venture a bit further away to pick them.

 


Ricotta, Lemon, and Blackberry Muffins
 
Print
Author: adapted from Ken Haedrich, The Harvest Baker
Ingredients
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp baking soda
  • ¾ tsp salt
  • ¼ tsp nutmeg
  • 1 cup ricotta cheese
  • ½ cup sour cream
  • ½ cup milk
  • 5 tbsp unsalted butter, melted and cooled
  • 1 egg
  • grated zest of one large lemon
  • ½ tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 cups blackberries (fresh or frozen)
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Line a 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners, and set aside.
  2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg. Set aside.
  3. In a different large bowl, whisk together the ricotta, sour cream, milk, melted butter, egg, lemon zest, and vanilla. Gradually add in the sugar, blending thoroughly. Make a well in the dry ingredients, and pour in the liquid mixture, stirring thoroughly. When there are still streaks of flour in the batter, add the blackberries, folding gently just until the batter is evenly mixed.
  4. Divide the batter evenly between the muffin cups, Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the muffins are nicely risen and the tops are golden brown.
  5. Cool the muffins for 5 minutes in the pan, then remove and finish cooling on a wire rack.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, blackberries, muffins

Blackberry Apple Butter

01.24.2016 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

Although the oranges my father sent weren’t the Sevilles I anticipated, I found a place where I could order some, and promptly did so. While I waited for my order to ship, I began to research marmalade recipes, and of course the internet has many to offer. The internet also has Amazon, which has books on jam-making, and as you peruse the titles, helpfully suggests other books and even jam-making supplies.

This is how I discovered that there are special pans just for jam-making, made in France. Since Christmas was still in the air – in spite of its fire-hazard status, our tree had not yet come down – I ordered one last gift, for myself. Since I made quite a lot of jam last year, most of which was gifted to others at Christmas, it seemed like a Christmassy thing to do.

Having spent a tidy sum on the pan, I didn’t buy any of Amazon’s cookbook recommendations. Instead, I reserved three titles at our local library: The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook, Blue Chair Cooks with Jam & Marmalade, and The River Cottage Preserves Handbook.

The books arrived a few days later; two massive volumes, alongside one small, rather modest one. The Blue Chair books are so big they don’t fit in my cookbook holder, nor leave any work space when lying open on the counter. They are, however, filled with glorious photographs of fruit, and orchards, and the author, wandering wistfully among the fruit trees in an orchard.

The photographs don’t interest me, of course; I’m looking for recipes, and there are many, and they are detailed, and though the ingredients don’t contain too many surprises – fruit + sugar = jam – the technique employed is a marvel of detail, requiring three days to make each batch of jam.

I wouldn’t necessarily mind taking three days to do nothing except wander in an orchard and make jam, but according to the author of River Cottage Preserves, as well as my own jam-making experience, I don’t actually have to: just a few hours will do the job.

That said, I did pick at least some of the fruit involved, though it wasn’t in an orchard, it was on the campus of the college near my house, sections of which are overgrown with blackberry bushes. I filled my freezer with bags of berries in August, something I may not be able to do again, as the college recently bulldozed the blackberry bushes, leaving behind a wide swath of mud and a number of homeless bunnies.

Making jam – or in this case, fruit butter – in a pan designed expressly for that purpose is a hypnotic experience. The pan is wide and shallow, with sides that flare out, all of which is intended to increase the speed of evaporation and reduce the cooking time, resulting in a fresher tasting jam. I was a little skeptical that a pan could make that much of a difference, but once the berries and apples got started, the steam coming off the pan was something to behold – rapid evaporation, indeed, but also rather beautiful to watch.

I’ve always liked apple butter, though often I am disappointed when I buy a jar – dull color and flavors can be somewhat dispiriting, especially in the dark days of winter. Adding blackberries creates a butter with a bright, lively flavor and a regal purple color. The house smells like Christmas as it cooks.

I used honeycrisp apples, but any good baking apple will work. I accidentally increased the amount of sugar the original recipe called for, but the final result was a slightly more firm butter with wonderful spreadability and a very smooth texture, so I wouldn’t change it.

 

Blackberry Apple Butter

Blackberry Apple Butter
 
Print
Author: Pam Corbin, The River Cottage Preserves Handbook
Ingredients
  • 2¼ lbs blackberries
  • 1 lb, 2 oz cored cooking apples (no need to peel them)
  • 2½ cups apple cider
  • 7 tbsp lemon juice
  • ½ tsp cloves
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • white sugar
Instructions
  1. Cut the apples into fairly large pieces, trimming away and bruised or bad bits. Place in a pan with the blackberries, cider, lemon juice, and 2½ cups water. Bring to a boil and cook gently, until the liquid is greatly reduced and the apples are very soft.
  2. Run the fruit mixture through a food mill into a bowl, and clean out your jam-cooking pan. Measure the volume of fruit pulp and return it to the jam pan (I had five cups). Add ⅔ cups of sugar for each cup of fruit pulp, along with the cinnamon and cloves. Slowly bring to a boil, then simmer until the mixture begins to sputter and is very thick. Stir frequently to avoid scorching.
  3. Remove from the heat and pour into sterilized jars. Put lids on the jars and process in boiling water for 15 minutes. Let cool completely, and use within a year.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // apples, blackberries, jam

Spiced Blackberry Jam

09.03.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

The laptop surprise was a helpful reminder of two things: first, that I need to really, really budget carefully, to make sure that all The Child’s school costs are covered, and second, that there are a lot of ways to cut costs, if you take the time to look for them.

Which brings me to the blackberries. Last year, I picked and froze several pounds of blackberries, which lasted through spring. I baked a couple of coffee cakes with them, and then The Child found the bags and I would discover her nibbling on bowls of thawed berries, so I left them for her to finish. They were gone in late spring, but it was only a couple of months until they were back in season.

This time of year, all I have to do is bring a bag with me when I walk the Red Dog, and I come home with blackberries. On the weekend, when we have time for a long walk, I can come home with a pound or more of fresh berries.

The Red Dog loves his walks, barking joyfully when I attach his leash, then dancing wildly until the door is opened, then trying to stand still while I untangle him so that we can, finally, go out. We wander through the college together, and he stays patiently by my side, watching as I use sticks to pull branches to that I can reach a cluster of berries without getting pricked by sharp thorns. I struggle a bit with the leash, at times, because holding it prevents me from reaching as far as I need to, so I finally let go of it.

He walks a few steps away, and sits down, quietly watching. Content.

When it is time for me to move on, I say his name, and he follows, and sits near the new spot, and after a couple of moves, I don’t say his name anymore. He’s just there, wherever I am.

We come home one Saturday with two pounds of berries, and after my success with Rhubarb-Strawberry Jam, I decide to try my hand at another jam, and finally settled on this spiced blackberry jam by Gloria Nichol, from her book 100 Jams, Jellies, Preserves and Pickles. (The book also has a recipe for a variation, which includes nectarines.)

This jam was decidedly trickier to make, since I did not want the seeds and centers that can make blackberries unpleasant, so I ran the jam through a food mill. It’s an optional step, but I wouldn’t skip it: it’s worth the time for the resulting smooth berry jam.

The spices give a subtle layer of flavor, a taste that will warm you up when spread on hot toast on a chilly autumn day. It’s also not for everyone, because the star anise gives a hint of licorice, which I love, but others might not. It is complex and thoroughly unexpected and comforting all at once.

I had no trouble processing the jam and getting a seal; the recipe makes a bit less than four cups – which means three jars for later, and almost a full jar to enjoy right now.

Spiced Blackberry Jam

Spiced Blackberry Jam
 
Print
Author: Gloria Nichol, 100 Jams, Jellies, Preserves & Pickles
Ingredients
  • 2 lbs blackberries
  • 1 star anise
  • 3 cloves
  • 1 small cinnamon stick
  • juice of 2 lemons
  • 1 lb 9 oz sugar
Instructions
  1. Place the blackberries and spices in a sauce pan with about 2 tablespoons of water (just enough to prevent fruit from sticking). Bring to a simmer, cooking until the berries are tender and juicy, mashing with the back of a spoon or potato masher.
  2. Run the berries through a food mill.
  3. Return the berries to a pan and add the lemon juice; heat through, stirring often.
  4. Add sugar, stirring until dissolved.
  5. Turn up the heat and boil rapidly until the jam has reached the setting point (holds its shape when a spoonful is put on a chilled plate).
  6. Pour hot jam into sterilized jars, leaving ¼″ headspace, cover with sterilized lids and rings.
  7. Process in a hot water bath for 10 minutes.
  8. Remove from water bath and let jars cool on a kitchen towel. If lids snap, jars are sealed; if they don't snap, refrigerate the jar.
Notes
This recipe filled three one-cup jam jars, with a bit of extra that went in the fridge. Put the water for the water bath on to boil before you begin cooking the berries; put the jars and lids in boiling water for about ten minutes to sterilize them. Leave them in the water until just before you fill them.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // blackberries, jam

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