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Marion Cunningham’s Fresh Ginger Muffins

05.23.2014 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

If the shoe fits, wear it. If you happen to live in Seattle in springtime, I suggest rain boots.

For the past few months, my backyard has been a muddy swamp, much of which has been tracked indoors by two dogs: the Red Dog, who lives here permanently, and the Feisty Girl, who was supposed to be only a temporary resident but who shows no signs of having her own permanent home anytime soon. Her presence is a source of despair for the cats, who have not left my bedroom since Feisty Girl arrived, while her eventual departure is a source of distress for The Child, who has proclaimed Feisty Girl to be The Only Dog That Likes Me Most and is convinced that somehow, if we adopt her, it will all work itself out.

I visit the cats regularly during the day, because I miss them, but also because my bedroom window is the only spot I can observe my side yard, which doesn’t sound like a very interesting thing to watch unless you know that there’s a mountain range emerging there, at a pace much faster than glacial. The Himalayas are slackers compared to what’s going on in my yard, but then again, the Himalayas have to wait for tectonic activity to do its thing, and my yard has a decided advantage:  one very active mole.

You can (and really, should) complain about me using this space to make mountains out of molehills, but please don’t – having to draw cat/dog Maginot lines is all I can handle at the moment. The battle rages inside and out: I tried mole repellent, which should have made the mole leave, but he merely chuckled at the effort (I heard him). I moved on to poison worms, which should have been the mole’s last supper, but he was either too full or the worms were not up to his usual culinary standards.

I fought the mole, and lost.

I finally google to find out what actually kills moles, and learn a very helpful thing: traps are very effective, but also illegal in two states, one of which happens to contain my lawn.

My neighbor helpfully suggests that it’s not like anyone would report me or bother me about using the traps – which one can buy anywhere, since they are perfectly legal to sell in Washington State, just not legal to use – but based on the fact that 80% of the drivers I pass on the roads are talking on handheld cellphones, yet I got pulled over for doing the same, I think my personal track record suggests I might be among the unlucky 20% who get caught and fined.

When life hands you lemons, you’re supposed to make lemonade, and maybe I should have, because the lemon buttermilk sorbet I attempted didn’t work out very well. Still, I ended up with a refrigerator full of leftover buttermilk and lemons,  as well as an abundance of ginger from my love affair with Momofuku’s Ginger Scallion Sauce. As luck would have it, these are just the things I needed to make Marion Cunningham’s Fresh Ginger Muffins.

So, one sunny Sunday when I should have been outside enjoying a break in the weather, or, apparently, killing a mole with a shovel (which is legal in Washington), I made muffins. These are a wonderful way to start the day: Light and airy, lightly sweet, and brightly flavored with ginger and lemon. The muffins are studded with little bits of sweet, slightly crunchy ginger. They’re wonderful with a cup of coffee or tea and even better with some berries on the side. They don’t need anything extra, but some currants would be a nice addition.

I did eventually win the Battle of the Mole, by hiring a service that dispensed with the mole the same day they showed up. No, I don’t know how, and no, I don’t care. The battle inside the house rages on.

 

Fresh Ginger Muffins

 

Marion Cunningham's Fresh Ginger Muffins
 
Print
Cook time
20 mins
Total time
20 mins
 
Author: Marion Cunningham, The Breakfast Book
Serves: 16
Ingredients
  • 1 piece unpeeled fresh ginger (4 to 5 oz.)
  • ¾ cup plus 3 Tbs. sugar
  • 2 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • ¾ tsp. baking soda
  • 8 Tbs. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room
  • temperature
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup buttermilk
Instructions
  1. Preheat an oven to 375ºF. Butter standard muffin tins or use paper liners.
  2. Cut the unpeeled ginger into large chunks. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process until it is finely minced. You should have about ¼ cup.
  3. In a small saucepan, combine the ginger and ¼ cup of the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar melts and the mixture is hot; this takes only about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool until tepid.
  4. In a small bowl stir the lemon zest and the 3 Tbs. sugar. Let stand for a few minutes, then add to the ginger mixture. Stir and set aside.
  5. In a medium bowl, stir and toss together the flour, salt and baking soda. Set aside.
  6. In a large bowl, beat the butter until smooth. Add the remaining ½ cup sugar and beat until blended. Add the eggs and beat well. Add the buttermilk and mix until blended. Then add the flour mixture and stir just until blended. Stir in the ginger-lemon mixture.
  7. Spoon into the prepared muffin tins, filling each cup about three-fourths full. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, ginger, muffins

Saltie’s Focaccia – A Taste for Italian

04.18.2014 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

For whatever reason, some things are doomed to failure, and no matter how hard one tries, all the effort expended to prevent that outcome ends up being a waste of time, or money, or energy, or in the case of the Mini, a waste of all three.

This is not unlike a manuscript that was recently sent to me by my good friend Toby over at Plate Fodder – A Taste For Italian: Celebrating Italy’s Cuisine, Music and Language. The title is the first clue that all is not right here; I’ve managed to get past the irritating lack of an Oxford Comma, but not the fact that it sounds like the author has a hankering to eat the country’s people, rather than its food.

A bit of back story: A Taste For Italian is a unpublished manuscript that was found in an antique store (like a lot of things related to this book, we’re using terms loosely) by the lovely Julie over at Cookbook Fetish. The manuscript is described by its authors as “preliminary,” and that’s a good word. Julie sent the manuscript over to Toby, who described it as “uninspired,” also a good word. Toby then sent the manuscript over to me, and rather than try to sum it up in one word, I chose my Mini as a metaphor: A lot of time and effort went in, but in the end, it came to naught. It’s the car that everyone trades in.

The manuscript, such as it is, isn’t really a cookbook, or a travelogue, or a cultural history, or an appreciation of things Italian. Unfortunately, it tries to be all of these things, at once, and the result is a stream-of-consciousness hodge-podge of opera snippets and history (Aida was first performed in Cairo in 1871, and one song has “virtually become the National Anthem of Egypt”), Berlitz-style helpful phrases (“Is the pizza ready? I’m dying of hunger!”), and restaurant listings (in case you happen to be in Bologna in 1997).

And recipes.

Julie and Toby each cooked a recipe or two from the manuscript, but I didn’t even get that far, though it wasn’t for lack of effort. I got stuck on a recipe for The Child’s favorite soup, minestrone – it seemed like a fairly safe bet because, at the end of the day, how do you screw up soup?

This is how:

  • Don’t list the ingredients in the order in which they will be used, or in any particular order whatsoever.
  • Be nonspecific about your ingredients: If you don’t care whether the kidney beans are canned or dried, your reader surely won’t wonder which to use.
  • In the recipe steps, don’t use all the ingredients you have listed. (I should probably have listed this last step first, as it’s the most important, but maybe it’s at the end for emphasis?)

If you construct your recipe this way, your reader won’t be able to guess which type of beans to be using or at what point said beans should be added to the pot. They will, however, go back over the out-of-order list repeatedly in an attempt to figure out what else was omitted (the answer is the first ingredient, potatoes). They’ll have to check things off because the list order doesn’t correspond to the steps or any other sequence; in doing so, they will discover that a couple of ingredients are added twice (garlic and onion). Then they will get tired of trying to sort it all out, and will open a can of Progresso for The Child.

I still had the challenge of making something inspired by the manuscript, so I went with focaccia, inspired less by the manuscript and more by Toby’s take on focaccia, but also my recent success with the Saltie cookbook. Saltie is a Brooklyn sandwich shop, which uses focaccia in most of its offerings. I made the recipe twice, and had no trouble following it, and better yet, The Child loved this simple bread with lots of salt. The recipe would easily make 6-8 sandwiches, maybe more, but she just cut large hunks of it and ate them plain.

Saltie's Focaccia

The downside of a recipe that makes this much is that some is likely to go bad, since it’s only good for about 24 hours. On the other hand, the cookbook suggests that day-old focaccia is wonderful added to soup, and if I can find a recipe for minestrone that uses all its ingredients, I might just make some.

I did find the focaccia made absolutely superb sandwiches, and I tried one of the recipes from the book, the “Ship’s Biscuit”. This blissfully simple sandwich relies on the freshness of one ingredient – use only fresh ricotta cheese, not that packaged supermarket stuff – and the technique used with the other ingredient – the eggs, which should be “softly scrambled.” It took a while for me to master the technique, which is basically this:  melt some butter in a frying pan, then crack two eggs into the warm (not hot) pan. When the whites begins to set, start moving them around the pan with a small rubber spatula but don’t break the yolks until the whites are completely cooked and fluffed up. Then, take the pan off the heat, break the yolks, stirring them in with the whites while letting them cook over the residual heat. You may have to play with this a couple of times to get it right, but when you do, you’ll know – the eggs will be fluffy, yet with a nice softness of yolk.

To make the sandwich, take a piece of the focaccia, slice open for a sandwich, spread some fresh ricotta on the bottom half, and the soft-scrambled eggs on top. Then scarf it down and be amazed by the creamy, eggy texture against the salty, oily focaccia.

The Ship's Biscuit

I’m thankful to Julie and Toby for letting me share the fun with A Taste For Italian. If you’d like the information on how to join in, or just what the heck is going on, it’s here.

I am eagerly awaiting my instructions on where the manuscript will head next!

 

Saltie's Focaccia
 
Print
Author: Caroline Fidanza, Saltie
Serves: 8
Ingredients
  • 6¼ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon active dry yeast
  • 3½ cups warm water
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing and drizzling
  • Coarse sea salt
Instructions
  1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and yeast. Add the warm water to the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the flour is incorporated and a sticky dough forms (no need to knead). Pour the ¼ cup olive oil into a 6-quart plastic food container with a tight-fitting lid (see Note). Transfer the focaccia dough to the plastic container, turn to coat, and cover tightly. Place in the refrigerator to rise for at least 8 hours or for up to 2 days.
  2. Oil an 18-by-13-inch baking sheet. Remove the focaccia dough from the refrigerator and transfer to the prepared pan. Using your hands spread the dough out on the prepared pan much as possible, adding oil to the dough as needed to keep it from sticking. Place the dough in a warm place and let rise until about doubled in bulk. The rising time will vary considerably depending on the season. (In the summer, it may take only 20 minutes for the dough to warm up and rise; in the winter it can take an hour or more.)
  3. When the dough is ready, it should be room temperature, spread out on the sheet, and fluffy feeling. Pat down the focaccia to an even thickness of about 1 inch on the baking sheet tray and begin to make indentations in the dough with your fingertips. Dimple the entire dough and then drizzle the whole thing again with olive oil. Sprinkle the entire surface of the focaccia evenly with sea salt.
  4. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Bake, rotating once front to back, until the top is uniformly golden brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool, then slide out of the pan. Use the same day.
  5. Note : This easy recipe calls for a large plastic food-storage container, about a 6-quart capacity, with a tight-fitting lid. Otherwise, you can use a large mixing bowl and cover the dough with plastic wrap. Unfortunately, focaccia suffers a rapid and significant deterioration in quality after the first day. It is also impossible to make bread crumbs with focaccia. Ideally, bake and eat focaccia on the same day. If there is some left over, wrap it tightly in plastic and store at room temperature for one day more. Day-old focaccia is delicious in soup.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, bread

Spiced Carrot Muffins with Currants and Brown Butter

01.11.2014 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Everything comes to an end, and in the case of this past week, that’s really for the best. It started off well enough, and I had all sorts of ambitions for things I’d get done: My to-do list was long, my vegetable drawer full.

 

By the end, the to-do list was no shorter and the vegetable drawer was still full, and even as Friday evening rolled around with time enough to do something about one of those things, I couldn’t find the list – it’s probably here somewhere, but I wouldn’t swear to it – and I had some awareness that me using a sharp knife at that moment was probably not the best plan.

 

In any case, I didn’t want dinner as much as comfort. The Child didn’t want either.

 

I flipped through The Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, which pretty much lives on my counter these days, and ran across these carrot muffins, which seemed like a good idea on several counts:  I had all the ingredients on hand; spiced, baked anything sounded really good at that moment, and at least three of the carrots in my kitchen would get used before they expired. So, on the Friday night of the week that I hope is not a sign of how the new year is going to go, I made them.

 

These muffins are delicious – buttery, light, moist, and spicy. Douglas uses a mixing technique I’ve not encountered before, layering the carrots and currants between the beaten wet ingredients and sifted dry ingredients, then folding the mixture just enough to blend. I’m not quite sure why, and if you happen know, please fill me in. The muffins didn’t rise quite as much as I expected them too, so I may have done something wrong (over-folded?). Still, I managed not to burn the butter, and render it a deep, nutty brown.

 

There is something comforting about a house that smells like melted butter, and there are times when breakfast is what you really need for dinner. So The Child and I watched Disney movies together, and scratched The Dog behind the ears, and ate muffins out of the oven on a Friday night.

 

 Spiced Carrot Muffins

Spiced Carrot Muffins With Currants and Brown Butter
 
Print
Author: Tom Douglas, Dahlia Bakery Cookbook
Serves: 16
Ingredients
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
  • 1⁄2 cup dried currants
  • 1⁄2 cup water
  • 1 3⁄4 cups all purpose flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 3⁄4 tsp cinnamon
  • 3⁄4 tsp ground ginger
  • 4 large eggs at room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 1⁄2 tsp grated orange zest
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • 3⁄4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 cup peeled and grated carrot
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line the muffin pan with paper liners and set aside.
  2. To make the brown butter, place the butter in a small saucepan over medium- high heat and cook until the butter solids are browned and smell toasty, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes or a little longer. Watch carefully so the butter does not burn. As the butter browns, the foam rises to the top and dark brown particles stick to the bottom of the pan. As soon as the butter is dark golden brown, pour it into a small bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
  3. Combine the currants with the water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Simmer until the currants are plump, about 10 minutes. Remove the currants from the heat, drain, and transfer to a small bowl to cool to room temperature.
  4. Into a bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and ginger together twice, then set the dry ingredients aside.
  5. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the eggs, sugar, orange zest, vanilla, and salt. Using the whisk attachment, whip on medium- high speed until thick and pale, about 3 minutes.
  6. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Without stirring, place the carrots and currants on top of the egg mixture. Then pour the dry ingredients on top and, using a rubber spatula, gently fold everything together. Finally, fold in the browned butter, combining everything thoroughly but gently.
  7. Scoop the muffins into the paper- lined muffin cups, dividing it evenly, using about 3 ounces, or about 1 ⁄3 cup, of batter per muffin.
  8. Bake until the muffins are cooked through and golden, about 18 minutes, rotating the pan once halfway through the baking time. A wooden skewer inserted into a muffin should come out with a few crumbs clinging but no batter.
  9. Remove the pan from the oven and cool on a wire rack about 10 minutes before unmolding.
Notes
Douglas suggests grating the carrot use the largest holes of a box grater. I have no idea where my box grater is or if I still own one. I used the grating disc of my Cuisinart. Douglas also suggests sprinkling the top of each muffin with sanding sugar and salt before baking, which I didn't do, but would be a very nice touch.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, carrots, currants, muffins

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