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It’s A Long Story: Christmas Gifts

12.26.2013 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

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One of the interesting aspects of my childhood was the gifts that showed up for me. Other children, it seemed to me, received things I saw on TV: Barbie dolls and Hot Wheels racing sets. I got a little bit of that – not Barbie dolls, which my mother was opposed to on some sort of political correctness basis – but other things like a Big Wheel, various plastic dolls, and games like Tiddlywinks and Hi-Ho Cherry-O. I don’t remember the things so much as the stories that were invented around them; one of my dolls had her arm chewed off by the dog, an event I don’t recall, but she was ever after the doll victim of many shark-attack scenarios devised by my cousin, which I remember well.

My grandmother’s seemingly endless siblings presented me with a number of treasures, mostly, I suspect, handed down from their own grandchildren, but all of them “still with lots of good use left.”

More exotic items arrived at the house for me, though, from all over the world, and these were presented to me always with a bit of awe and an effort to impress on me what a wonderment such things were. Jewelry from my grandparents and aunt in South Africa. Marvelous toys from my godfather, a Swiss banker.

The Swiss Banker sent an expensive set of plasticine clay to me one Wisconsin Christmas, exquisitely beautiful in the packaging, but I wanted to play with it – it was clay, after all – so I sat at the kitchen table and tried to make things with my four-year-old fingers, I don’t remember what. I liked the feel of the clay and all the different colors.

I showed my mother what I had made, and she told me I wasn’t doing it right.  That’s not how you use clay like that.

I had been happy with what I had made and how I had spent the afternoon, but now I was not so sure. I went upstairs, and later, to bed, but I peeked downstairs that night, because my mother was not upstairs, asleep with me. She was at the table, modeling with my clay. In the morning,  there was an array of zoo animals – I remember a tiger with carefully applied stripes in particular – on display on the kitchen table. I stared at her perfect figures made from my clay, things I could never hope to make. That is what you do with clay like that, she said.

I determined to try, and sat at the table that day, pulling apart what bits remained of the clay and trying to copy the little animals she made, or make some of my own devising. They didn’t look like hers, and after a while, I realized I didn’t want them to. I mashed up all my failed attempts into a ball and then mashed that together with what remained of the clay and by then there was an ocean of grey clay and her animals were the creatures that missed Noah’s Ark and got eaten by the flood and turned into grey clay too.

I made little balls out of the grey clay, which is what my mother saw when she found the whole mess.

She was angry at me for ruining that beautiful, expensive clay set, which seemed logical enough, and I was angry at her too, though I couldn’t explain why.

 

 

Categories // It's A Long Story

Salted Chocolate Rye Cookies

12.25.2013 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

The Child and I completely opted out of Christmas, at least the endless socializing part of it. For years, we co-hosted Christmas and Thanksgiving with one friend, who has a son about The Child’s age; for years we have abandoned our Christmas treats and toys midday and headed off to play board games with people we see twice a year – three times, if they showed up at our cookie party – and only during the holidays.

 

It seemed like a good thing, until The Child pointed out that she has exactly nothing in common with my friend’s son, who usually spends the time playing video games with his father, a man whose past I know too much about to make eye contact, most of the time. Other years, I would have felt too guilty to not attend Christmas at her house, but this year she did me a kindness: She declined Thanksgiving.

 

And so, with no guilt, I decide to honor The Child’s request, and cancel our Christmas visit. She wants to eat cookies and go to the movies and maybe, if she gets lucky, play on the Xbox she hopes she’s getting. Instead of all the things we usually do this time of year, we do nothing except watch Christmas movies of varying degrees of quality, and bake cookies. Lots of cookies.

 

I am not usually a maker of anything that involves melting chocolate, but when I ran across this unusual recipe from the Tartine No. 3 cookbook in several places (Tasting Table, Saveur magazine), I thought it must be a sign to try something completely new. Rye flour in a cookie definitely qualifies as new to me, but once you get past that, there isn’t really anything unusual in terms of technique. As an added benefit, the recipe didn’t require me to do any rolling out or complex assembly, things I’m not good at but probably should try to learn, one of these days.

 

These cookies, not unlike the lebkuchen, are not the prettiest cookies I’ve ever made, but they make up for it by being intense and sophisticated. The bittersweet chocolate and rye flour together create a complex flavor, offset by just the right amount of sweetness. The cookies have the soft texture of a brownie, but none of the heaviness, and a slightly chewy texture.

 

The dough was a little unnerving, because it’s all made with a whisk and when you’re done mixing, it looks more like a thick pancake batter than a dough, leaving me wondering if I’d done something wrong somewhere. After the required 30 minutes of refrigeration, though, the cookies were easy to scoop and drop. Don’t skip this part. Also, don’t skip the parchment paper, because the cookies are fairly delicate, but they came right off the paper with ease.

 

Given the cookies’ intense flavor and lack of plate appeal, I expected The Child to turn her nose up at them, but she didn’t, and pronounced them delicious. The recipe doesn’t make a lot of cookies, but they are so rich and satisfying that they go a long way.

 

Merry Christmas, one and all, and thank you for reading along this year.

 

 Salted Chocolate Rye Cookies

Salted Chocolate Rye Cookies
 
Print
Author: Saveur Magazine, adapted from Tartine #3 Cookbook
Ingredients
  • ¾ cup whole-grain dark rye flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • 2⅔ cups bittersweet chocolate (finely chopped or chips)
  • 4 tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 4 eggs, at room temperature
  • 1½ cups light brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp. vanilla extract
  • Maldon salt or fleur de sel, for sprinkling
Instructions
  1. Whisk flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl; set aside. Place chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until melted, 5 minutes. Remove bowl from pan; set aside.
  2. Place eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment; whip until fluffy. With the motor running, slowly add sugar until eggs have nearly tripled in volume, about 6 minutes. Add reserved chocolate mixture and the vanilla; mix until combined. With the motor running, slowly add dry ingredients until a soft, loose dough forms. Cover dough with plastic wrap; chill 30 minutes.
  3. Heat oven to 350°. Using 2 tablespoons for each, drop cookies onto parchment paper-lined baking sheets, spaced about 2” apart. Sprinkle cookies with Maldon salt or fleur de sel; bake until cookies are puffed, about 10 minutes.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chocolate, cookies, rye

It’s A Long Story: The Christmas Card

12.24.2013 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

I was three or four, and Christmas was coming. Cards were sent, and received. I liked the way mail came then, with a mailman walking through the Wisconsin snow, house to house, dropping cards into a slot where they landed, in a pile, in the front hall closet. I could hear the thump and watch the mailman and often was the first to get the mail.

A card came from my great-Aunt’s house. I tore open the envelope and was confused, because she had sent us the same card we sent her. When I showed the card to my grandmother, I got a reprimand for tearing open the envelope, which could have been re-used: the card we sent had been returned to us, with the address written slightly wrong.

Another card came back, too, but someone else got the mail that day, so all I saw was a bit of the card as I peered over a shoulder during the confused discussion that followed: The card to my father had been returned, addressee moved, no forwarding address.

Years later, I would find the divorce papers that my mother filed the following year, her versus him, address unknown.

 

 

Categories // It's A Long Story

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