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Jamie Oliver’s Eggplant Parmesan

08.26.2015 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

This is the way the summer begins: with a whimper.

This is the way the summer ends: with a bang.

The Child’s summer days were divided into two parts: Mornings were spent at driving classes, learning the rules of the road so that next spring, when she turns 16, she will be ready to hit the road in the car she hopes to have. Afternoons were spent at the local pool, teaching youngsters to swim.  Summer settled in to a nice rhythm, one that didn’t require much of me.

It lasted a few blissful days.

The Child calls from a phone number I don’t recognize: her phone – and her bus pass – has been stolen out of her locker at the pool.

I drive over to pick her up, and then to the phone store, where I learn a few things. First, once reported as stolen, phones cannot be re-activated, and are effectively useless. Second, you can buy a stolen phone on craigslist for cash; it will seem to work right up to the time it is reported as stolen.

From a theoretical standpoint, I have gained an interesting insight into a portion of the economy whose existence I was previously unaware of.

From a practical standpoint, the other information I obtain is far more useful: Although I declined insurance coverage when purchasing The Child’s phone, it is, in fact, insured. It is probably the only time I’ve  been happy – grateful, even – that my clearly stated preferences were ignored. So, after several more visits to the phone store and various websites, a new phone arrives for The Child. A new bus pass arrives a few days later, to significantly less fanfare.

Teenagers don’t get excited about buses; they get excited about cars.

Summer resumes its rhythm. The Child begins actual driving lessons, the kind where she gets behind the actual wheel of an actual car and drives on actual roads in actual traffic. She does this with a professional instructor, apparently quite well, and though she’s supposed to practice outside of class, with her parents, she looks for alternate teachers among our neighbors and friends, as do I. She locates a willing parent of a friend, but then that doesn’t work out, and so one warm evening, we head over to the empty parking lot of the nearby community college, and I hand her the key to my car.

She drives gingerly up the center lane, and stops at the sign.

She makes a left turn into the second parking lot, and remembers to signal.

She attempts to park neatly between the white lines, and puts imaginary dents in the cars that aren’t parked there. She circles around the lot, tries again, and fails.

I did this really well in my lesson, she says. There were actual cars there and I pulled up between them.

This is a bigger car. You have to make a wider turn to line it up.

She tries again, drives across the lines again, pulling the car slowly to the concrete stopping block. With a bang and a scraping of metal, the car hurtles abruptly forward, stopping just as suddenly, then quietly whirrs and waits. The Child is crying and hyperventilating, and jumps out of the car, still in Drive, but motionless. I shift it into Park and pull the brake, then get out and walk to the now-vacant driver’s seat to turn off the motor, but the car isn’t going anywhere. It is neatly propped up on the concrete block, which is what stopped it from going down the hill, into the fence and a mass of overgrown blackberry bushes.

We spend the rest of the evening sitting on the curb, swatting mosquitos and waiting for the tow truck, which arrives two hours later, hooks the car incorrectly to the winch, and does additional damage to the rear of the car.

At least you still have your bus pass, I point out.

I’m a good driver at driving school, she says. You just have a bad car.

Summers should not be spent like this. Summers should be spent tending the garden, picking blackberries, going to the pool with friends, or riding nowhere in particular on a bike, alone. There should be sand and ice cream and picnics on red-checkered blankets. Summer may mean different things to you, and that’s fine. I’m willing to wager that calls to insurance companies and calls  from angry tow truck drivers aren’t on your list, either.

Still, I did manage to pick some blackberries this summer, and summer isn’t quite over: there may yet be enough berries to make jam. I also managed to pay just enough attention to my garden that it  gave me a gift: some basil, some tomatoes, and one almighty big eggplant.

I fear eggplant in much the way that I fear The Child’s driving. The only time I ever ate it as a child was when my mother made eggplant parmesan, which was fortunately not very often. I could not choke it down: the eggplant was bitter, with a slimy texture, then encased in breading and baked under sauce. My mother served it with great pride, when we had guests, but as I got older she stopped having dinner guests and eggplant was something that simply vanished from my existence.

When choosing plants for my garden this year, I ran across an eggplant, flowering nicely, and thought: How could anything so pretty produce anything like my awful memory? The answer is, it can’t, if you take proper care of it and cook it well.

I chose Jamie Oliver’s Eggplant Parmesan Recipe because it seemed to right some of the wrongs of more traditional recipes: the eggplant is roasted in the oven, rather than breaded and fried, then baked in a simple sauce with lots of fresh tomatoes and basil.

It was incomparable for dinner. It was superb for lunch the next day. It would make a wonderful sandwich.

I used more parmesan cheese than called for in the recipe, because I simply grated a layer of parm onto each layer of sauce and didn’t bother to measure. I also came up a bit short on sauce because I neglected to cover the pan while cooking it, so it cooked down a bit more than it should have.

Never mind if you make mistakes; it’s a very forgiving recipe – a last taste of summer, or an early taste of fall. Whichever you prefer.

 

Eggplant Parmesan

Jamie Oliver's Eggplant Parmesan
 
Print
Author: adapted from Jamie Oliver via The New York Times
Ingredients
  • 3 medium-large eggplants, cut crosswise into ½-inch slices
  • Olive oil
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced
  • 1 ½ tsp dried oregano
  • 1 28-ounce can finely diced tomatoes, or an equivalent amount of fresh tomatoes, cored, peeled and diced
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • ½ cup packed fresh basil leaves
  • Salt and pepper
  • ½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese, or as needed
  • ⅓ cup bread crumbs
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Brush both sides of eggplant slices with olive oil, and place in a single layer on baking sheets. Bake until undersides are golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes, then turn and bake until other sides are lightly browned. Set aside.
  2. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.
  3. While eggplant is baking, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, and cook until soft. Add garlic and oregano and cook another 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and their juices, breaking up large pieces with the back of a spoon. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 15 to 20 minutes. Add vinegar, basil and salt and pepper to taste.
  4. Into a 9-by-9-inch baking dish, spoon a small amount of tomato sauce, then add a thin scattering of parmesan cheese, then a single layer of eggplant. Repeat until all ingredients are used, ending with a little sauce and a sprinkling of parmesan. Sprinkle bread crumbs on top and drizzle with a bit of olive oil or additional cheese, as desired.
  5. Bake until eggplant mixture is bubbly and center is hot, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
  6. Leftovers can be reheated.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // eggplant, vegetarian

Orange-Walnut Blondies

08.01.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

I’ve learned a lot about gardening in the past three years. Things like this: Neem oil applied with a sprayer is infinitely superior to every homemade concoction that has been dreamed up and posted on the internet, and it’s organic, too.

This is the reason I have zucchini, basil, and tomatoes, instead of aphids, whiteflies, and leaf miners.

Here’s another thing: The internet will tell you not to harvest your rhubarb the first year you plant it, but if you have stalks that appear harvestable, by all means, do so.

On the other hand, if you have an early spring, and see a large flower-bearing stalk emerging from your rhubarb plant, don’t go outside to admire it daily, and don’t take pictures of it to post on Instagram.

Yes, it’s pretty. Hack it off fast, if you want rhubarb any thicker than a pencil.

Water your plants as often as seems prudent.

Apply slug bait liberally.

If you do all of these things, I have discovered, vegetables will appear, and you will need to learn other things – mostly, what to do with them.

It is possible to have too many green beans, and if you somehow manage to grow an eggplant, you are going to have to think of a way to use it. If it takes you three years to learn how to grow zucchini – by which I mean, be overrun with zucchini – you will find it very disheartening to watch it go bad because your freezer is full and your neighbors are stocked up on zucchini, but thanks anyway.

It’s as disheartening as the realization that you like the idea of organic vegetables much more than you enjoy actually eating them.

Gardening is much like summer itself: I look forward to it, earnestly and hourly, starting in early February, when it dawns on me that the only holiday coming up to break the oppressive Seattle gloom is Valentine’s Day. It’s the one holiday I hate.  I hate it when I’m single, and hate it even more when I’m married.

Then summer actually arrives, and I remember that I actually do need the air conditioning that everyone says you don’t need in Seattle. I remember the beehive in the wall that neither the handyman nor a professional beeslayer could find. I remember that I don’t have a swimsuit and that even if I did venture onto a beach, I wouldn’t tan, I’d burn.

What I really like, more than I care to admit, is a nice rainy Sunday, one that allows me the luxury of not having to go anywhere. The perfect rainy Sunday would ideally follow a Saturday in which, in a burst of enthusiasm, I’ve run all the errands and folded the laundry and even crossed a few minor tasks off the to-do list. A Sunday on which I have nothing to do, and no place to go, and if the stars are aligned correctly, enough butter in the freezer that I can bake something that I shouldn’t really be eating.

And then I had one such rainy Sunday.

Truthfully, I had plans, but they involved being outdoors. There was a backup plan that didn’t involve getting wet – I live in Seattle, after all – but The Child came downstairs with stomach pains that were bad enough that she didn’t want to spend the day with her friends, which meant I could, with a clear conscience, stay in.

The universe gave me one last gift: a review copy of The Messy Baker cookbook. I spent some time perusing it, and it’s a nice cookbook, with some good ideas for scones and savory tarts. It reminds me a bit of The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook, a cookbook that seems quite ordinary and unexceptional and that you own for many years without much thought until the day you realize that it’s been your go-to book whenever you want to bake something comforting and reliable.

I tried out the recipe for Orange-Walnut Blondies, because it’s filled with things I love, butter and orange zest and vanilla and nuts. The original recipe includes a caramel sauce, which is fine if you’re serving it for a formal occasion. I didn’t consider a Netflix marathon of Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt to be such an occasion, so I skipped the sauce.

The blondies were superb, perfectly gooey, and buttery, with an orange-vanilla flavor reminiscent of an orange creamsicle – which as it happens, is one of the things I truly love about summer.

The Child devoured these right out of the pan, and they were all gone within a day.

IMG_0093.JPG

Orange-Walnut Blondies
 
Print
Author: adapted from Charmian Christie, The Messy Baker Cookbook
Ingredients
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1½ cups lightly packed brown sugar
  • zest of one orange
  • 1½ tsp vanilla
  • 1 tbsp orange juice
  • 2 eggs, at room temperature
  • 1½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13"x9" baking dish.
  2. Scatter the walnuts on a cookie sheet and toast until fragrant, about 8-10 minutes.
  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and orange zest until light. Add the vanilla and orange juice, stirring to combine, followed by the eggs, one at a time.
  4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour slowly to the butter mixture, while mixing on the low speed. Stir in the toasted walnuts by hand.
  5. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and smooth the top. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until your house smells so good you can't stand any more waiting, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  6. Cool the blondies in the pan, set on a cooling rack, and cut into squares of any size that makes you happy.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cookies, orange, walnuts

Howard Johnson’s Coconut Loaf Cake

07.08.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

It is one of the enduring ironies of my life that although my initial experience with the stock market – choosing Howard Johnson for a school assignment in a year when the stock sank and the company was sold – was negative, I eventually found my way into a reasonably successful career working in the industry.

That said, I work with people who choose stocks, and don’t actually choose them myself.

The only reason I recognized the Howard Johnson company name at all was that my mother and I ate there, exactly once, when she took me there for a very big treat. The ice cream!

I’m not sure I ever saw one of Howard Johnson’s famous bright orange roofs, since the one we went to was in the ground floor of a Manhattan building. The restaurant seemed a bit beat-up, and the waitress was not friendly like the waitress at the VFW fish fry in Wisconsin, who was also the school crossing guard and admired my pigtails while I played tic-tac-toe with my grandfather, who never seemed to win no matter how hard he tried or how many hints I gave him.  My mother and I sat in a booth and ate our meals, and then had ice cream, which was probably okay but not special enough that I remember it. I liked the ice cream from the Baskin-Robbins near where we lived; one flavor had pieces of frozen bubble gum in it, and at Halloween, they had licorice-flavored black ice cream that tasted awful but disgusted my mother so much that I looked forward to ordering it every autumn.

If it were not for my fifth-grade school project, I don’t think I’d remember Howard Johnson at all, but as it happens, I remember it well: An inauspicious beginning to my future career. It makes me smile, and so it was that when a recipe for the original Coconut Loaf Cake sold at Howard Johnson appeared on the King Arthur Flour blog, well, I had some coconut and some free time and plenty of nostalgia, so I made it.

It was superb: A buttery loaf cake, dense but not heavy,  with a hint of coconut. I didn’t include any additional coconut flavoring, so the flavor is there, but only from the coconut – not overpowering at all. The frosting is just divine with a bit of tang to it, and should not be omitted – there isn’t enough coconut without it. Cool the cake completely before frosting it (I mean it!) and then press in as much shredded coconut as the frosting will hold. Use all the frosting, and be generous with the coconut. Plan to be sticky. Lick fingers thoroughly when done.

The Child was less impressed than I was, explaining to me that she would like it, if she liked coconut. I thought she did like coconut; at least, I can’t come up with another reason why Kate Smith’s Coconut Squares are her most-frequently requested cookie. Apparently, that was a few years ago and I need to keep up.

It was because of her that I discovered one of the nicest features of this cake: It refrigerates really well. This should be surprising, since the original was apparently sold frozen, then thawed and served at home. The cake kept really well in the fridge and tasted divine served cold. It’s an ideal summer cake in this regard – a sweet, cold treat for a hot summer day.

Howard Johnson Coconut Cake

Howard Johnson's Coconut Loaf Cake
 
Print
Author: adapted from the King Arthur Flour website
Ingredients
Cake
  • ¾ cup unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • 5 large eggs
  • 1¼ teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups All-Purpose Flour
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • ⅔ cup sweetened flaked coconut
Frosting
  • ½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 cup cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • ¾ to 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9" x 5" loaf pan.
  2. Make the cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter at medium speed for about 10 seconds, then gradually add the sugar. Beat for 2 to 3 minutes, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until the mixture is fluffy.
  3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating each in completely before adding the next. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl, and beat briefly, just until combined, then add the salt, baking powder, and vanilla.
  4. Add the flour to the bowl in three portions, alternating with the cream. Beat at low speed, just to combine, after each addition.
  5. Stir in the flaked coconut, and scoop the batter into the prepared loaf pan.
  6. Bake the cake for about 70 to 75 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center/top of the loaf comes out clean. Tent it gently with aluminum foil if it appears to be getting too brown.
  7. Remove the cake from the oven, let it cool in the pan for a couple of minutes, then turn it out onto a rack. Cool completely.
  8. Make the frosting: Mix the butter and cream cheese at low speed, until thoroughly combined, then beat in the sugar and salt until smooth.
  9. Place the cake on a large piece of waxed paper. Spread the frosting all over the cake. Pat the flaked coconut onto the frosting. Plan to get sticky, or use a piece of wax paper. Be generous with the coconut.
  10. Cake keeps well in the refrigerator, and may be frozen.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, coconut, vintage recipes

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