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That Plum Torte

08.15.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Of the many gifts the internet has given us, I would argue the greatest may be this: Targeted recycling.

Yes, keeping stuff out of landfills is nice, but that isn’t why I recycle, and I suspect that’s true of a good many people. I will grudgingly separate out the recyclables in my trash because I am required to do so, to avoid a fine. I will happily recycle, though, when there is a monetary gain involved.

My most enthusiastic period as a recycler was during The Child’s infant and toddler years, when she required a new wardrobe with each change of season. Baby clothes are expensive, especially if you don’t have anyone passing along hand-me-downs, and even more especially when you crave only the most exquisite clothing for that baby.

It is entirely possible I was overcompensating for my own childhood, a time that photographic evidence suggests I spent wearing primarily hand-me-down boys’ play clothes, except for special occasions, which I spent in dresses sewn by my mother, and which was spent in the 1970s either way.

My Child’s photo albums would not suffer the same cruel fate, but my wallet could not bear the burden. I quickly discovered consignment stores, but then a magical thing occurred: Ebay.

I found out one could buy beautiful, slightly used boutique baby clothes at a fraction of the original price, and an obsession was born. I learned about internet auctions, and online payment systems, and bid sniping, and bid stalking, and became somewhat of a pro, buying at a discount, then selling what I could bear to part with once she had outgrown it.

Eventually, she preferred choosing her own clothes, and wore clothes long enough that they actually showed signs of wear, so I moved on from Ebay, unless I happened to be in the market for something from my childhood that I did want to remember, like a replacement for my favorite Christmas book, the now sadly out of print Grimble at Christmas.

I discovered other recycling sites had their uses, notably Freecycle, a Yahoo group that allowed me to get rid of large pieces of furniture without having to haul them to a donation site or pay for trash removal. I just emailed out to the group, and chose someone from among the replies, and that someone showed up with a pickup truck and an appreciative smile. The Departed’s massive, battered old desk was freecycled away to a grateful divorcee who needed it to study as she prepared to return to the workforce. Even he couldn’t find a reason to object to this hassle-free system.

Then Facebook came along, and with it, the Buy Nothing group. If you’ve never been in one of these groups, here is how they work: Group members, who live in a small geographical area, post pictures of things they don’t want anymore. Other group members comment on the photos if they are interested in having the item. The giver chooses a recipient. No one is allowed to ask for or offer money.

That’s it. Free stuff on the internet.

The posts are, not surprisingly, heavily tilted toward outgrown children’s items, but there’s quite a bit of other stuff. I posted quite a bit myself, after reading Marie Kondo’s The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up – a book we have two copies of, one for me and one for The Child – when I began my household purging, starting with my vast collection of last year’s handbags. I asked everyone who posted to come up with a creative name for each bag’s color, and whoever made the suggestion that tickled my fancy got the bag. I got some free entertainment and a lot of closet space from that.

Occasionally, I get chosen for other people’s items: On one occasion, some vintage cookbooks; on another, an elegant unused Kate Spade organizer, for The Child to keep track of her school assignments. A second batch of free cookbooks turned out to be mostly useless, but included a copy of  Fifty Shades of Chicken, which gave me a laugh and a very handy last-minute gag gift for a newly divorced – and, apparently, newly vegetarian – friend. I wanted to find a reason to need someone’s extensive rubber duck collection, but, much to my dismay, couldn’t.

It’s summer now, and people are posting their garden surplus – they have too much zucchini, or too many apples. I shared some of my rhubarb. A woman who was overrun with plums offered them to me, and when I couldn’t get over to pick them up that same day, she delivered them to my house, so that they wouldn’t go bad before I could get them.

Suddenly, I had too many plums.

Fortunately, I also had a recipe for a plum torte that I’ve been wanting to try, having read about it several times over the years on various food blogs. Created by Marian Burros, the recipe was originally published in the New York Times in 1982, and it made an annual appearance in the paper until 1989, when the editors decided it was time to move on.

The readers thought otherwise, and the Times was “flooded with angry letters.”

Of course, it is now freely available throughout the year through the Times online, and pops up elsewhere with some regularity. I was surprised to find a version of it in Burros’ 1967 cookbook Elegant But Easy (it includes blueberries, apples, and peaches, alongside the plums). It’s the standout recipe of the book, which can best be described at a mesmerizing culinary time warp, particularly the chapter on salads, which contains 19 recipes, of which 12 involve Jell-O and a mold.

The first time I made it, I covered every inch of the batter with plums, since I had so many. The plums I was using were a tiny Japanese variety, so I couldn’t use the stated number of the recipe, and it looked quite pretty. It may have been a bit too much, because even baking the cake for a significantly longer time than called for, the center was still a bit more moist than it should have been. Delicious, but not quite right.

I decided to make the cake a second time, using fewer plums, and as I was washing out my springform pan, I happened to notice the diameter measurement stamped into the bottom: I was the proud owner of an 8 inch pan, rather than the 9 inch pan called for in the recipe.

When I say “the recipe,” I mean every cake I’ve made in a springform pan in the last ten years.

On the one hand, it’s rather disheartening to realize you’ve been fouling up any number of perfectly good cake recipes this way; on the other hand, it’s nice to have a reason to go to the cookware department and buy a shiny new 9 inch pan.

This cake comes together very easily, so making it a second time was a snap. I used fewer plums, and was probably a bit too cautious about it, as the plum to cake ratio was definitely tilted toward cake.  But, the cake did cook through, in the expected amount of time, and it was perfect in every way.

The recipe could easily be made with other fruit; it struck me that apricots in particular would be a nice variation, when they are in season. Sadly, the rest of my bounty of plums had gone off by the time I finished the second cake, but it’s something to look forward to next year.

Plum Torte

 

Plum Torte
 
Print
Author: adapted from Marian Burros, The New York Times
Ingredients
  • 1 cup/125 grams all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp/5 grams baking powder
  • salt
  • 1 cup/200 grams sugar, plus extra for topping
  • ½ cup/115 grams unsalted butter, softened
  • 2 large eggs
  • 12 small plums, halved and pitted, or six larger plums
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Instructions
  1. Heat over to 350°F.
  2. Whisk flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl; set aside. In a larger bowl or stand mixer, cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, then the dry ingredients, mixing until just blended.
  3. Spoon batter into a 9-inch springform pan and smooth the top. Arrange the plums on top, skin side up, covering the surface. Sprinkle with lemon juice and cinnamon, then one to two tablespoons of sugar.
  4. Bake about 45 minutes, until the cake is golden and a toothpick inserted into a center part of the cake comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.
  5. And remember, once cool, if you can stand it, leave it covered at room temperature overnight as this cake really is even better on the second day. (But don't beat yourself up if you can't wait. We tried a slice on the first day and it was amazing then too.)
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, cake

Apricot Jam with Vanilla

08.01.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Summer arrives, and with it, boredom and fresh fruit.

This is an annual occurrence: Many of The Child’s friends are traveling, with family, to relaxing vacation destinations, or on their own, to costly, enriching experiences. I don’t have the funds for the latter, or the time for the former.  Summer is busy season at my office, when time off is forbidden, outside of a few short weeks.

It doesn’t matter much, though,  as The Child’s time is committed to math tutors and group therapy and appointments with doctors. The little free time that remains is similarly limited; she cannot be unsupervised, so she cannot go places I cannot take her, or be somewhere I am not.

I squeeze in a week off during one of the allowed windows, at the beginning of July, and we do what we have not done since The Child was eight: We visit family in Wisconsin. While The Child’s friends are instagramming Ivy League schools and palm trees, she sits in the back of a battered twenty-year-old Saturn that doesn’t start on the first try.

Somehow, though, it always does start, one of the many wonders of middle America she will witness on this trip. Most of them, she ignores, opting to read a book as my cousin drives us on a series of country roads on a quest for factory fresh cheese curds. She puts her book down long enough to taste some samples, and marvel at the way they squeak when she bites into them.

She delights in the July 4 fireworks over Lake Winnebago, proclaiming them much better than the ones at home, where the crowd is far too restrained and sober to burst into spontaneous patriotic singing and far too big for us to get a front row seat at the water’s edge.

Some things are less interesting, of course, but she makes the most of these, too. In the midst of a dinner of Mexican food with an old school friend of mine, she smiles slyly and abruptly leaves the table, returning a few minutes later to send a stream of texts that doesn’t stop until her phone battery runs out.

The next evening, she informs me, she has a date with the busboy from the restaurant.

The following morning, she tells me about her date, a lengthy evening spent within a small radius of our slightly seedy hotel – dinner at Texas Roadhouse, followed by frozen custard and several hours spent swatting mosquitos and chatting next to the pool. She had a good time, though ordering dinner was hard, since there weren’t  lot of vegetarian options on the menu, a comment I find perplexing, because she wasn’t a vegetarian when we ordered breakfast the day before.

But she is now, and announces she plans to stay that way, which I don’t mind while we’re traveling but mind very much when we return home to a freezer full of chicken, shrimp, and ground beef.

I check vegetarian cookbooks out of the library as I drop her off for her weekly tutoring sessions, and we make lists of vegetables, divided into categories: Ones she likes (very short), ones she doesn’t like (also fairly short), and ones she should probably try again. I fall back on pasta dishes and other old favorites while we grapple with this new reality, and stock up on more fruit than we can possibly eat.

She eats the strawberries, but informs me that apricots are just not her thing.

Truth be known, I don’t really like fresh apricots either, but I like them cooked up into jams and glazes. So I make jam one evening, rather hurriedly. It doesn’t go well.

I tried to follow the recipe from Christine Ferber’s Mes Confitures, but unfortunately, it involves a multi-day process – letting partially cooked apricots sit overnight in sugar syrup – so I simply skip that step, then realize I have to make other modifications to make the recipe work, and finally, take a shortcut that will prove fatal to any pretense that I have made jam. I put it into jars at a moment I hope, rather than know, it is set.

It isn’t, so I end up with four jars of slightly sloshy apricot sauce.

It turns out that this is not a bad thing: It’s very tasty apricot sauce, slightly tart, perfectly sweet, scented of vanilla, and lovely when swirled into a bowl of plain yogurt.

I like it enough that the next time I spy apricots at Costco, I buy them, and follow my somewhat amended version of the recipe, except that I test the jam oh-so-carefully and make really, truly, sure it is set before putting it into jars and then a water bath. It works perfectly, and I find myself with four small jars of very tasty, perfectly set jam.

I think I will still play with the recipe. The one thing it is missing is some larger bits of fruit, since running it through a food mill renders it a perfectly smooth jam, but little chunks of apricot would add some nice texture. Staying closer to Ferber’s original recipe, in which the syrup is cooked separately from the fruit, might resolve this.

Next year, when apricots are back in season, I’ll try again. In the meantime, I have seven jars of lovely jam – some for days I feel like toast, and some for days I don’t.

Vanilla Apricot Jam

Apricot Jam with Vanilla
 
Print
Author: adapted from Christine Ferber, Mes Confitures
Ingredients
  • 2½ lbs fresh apricots
  • 3¾ cups sugar
  • 7 ounces water
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 2 vanilla beans
Instructions
  1. Wash apricots thoroughly, then cut pit them and cut each apricot into eight pieces (or so).
  2. Split the vanilla beans lengthwise.
  3. In a large glass bowl, mix the apricots with the sugar, water, lemon juice, and split vanilla beans. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit overnight.
  4. The next day, set a small plate in the freezer. Pour the mixture into a preserving pan or large pot, and simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently to avoid scorching. Skim off any foam that appears. Apricots will gradually break down as they cook.
  5. Test for set by using scooping a bit of jam onto the chilled plate. If the jam appears to gel (holds a trail when a finger is run through it), then take the jam off the heat.
  6. Remove the vanilla beans, and put the jam through a food mill.
  7. Ladle the hot jam into prepared canning jars, and process for ten minutes in boiling water.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // apricots, jam

Richard Olney’s Pork Chops and Apples in Mustard Sauce

06.28.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

Ten months ago, in a burst of enthusiasm, I offered to foster an abandoned dog for a rescue, sight unseen. He would be flown up from Texas, but he would not be with me long – while purebred dogs are a dime for several dozen in Texas shelters, they’re a high-demand item in the Northwest, and the dog rescue had a waiting list of people wanting a young, healthy, happy boy.

Unfortunately, the dog that arrived, although young and healthy, was fearful, and when in a new situation – which, of course, every situation was – expressed his feelings by snapping and baring his teeth. This did not deter a family from adopting him three weeks after his arrival, but it did deter them from keeping him, and so three weeks after that, he came back.

In the months that followed, he became part of our household routine, when we had one, and we learned to work around him, putting baby gates in all the doorways to keep the cats safe from his chases, crating him to keep him out of trouble when we left the house, and leaving the house less often, since we didn’t want him to spend too much time in the crate. When The Child was in the hospital, he ended up spending too much of his time in his crate anyway, but he never complained, just wiggled happily when I returned to liberate him.

When The Child returned home, he slept on her bed at night, snuggled next to her, or else sat near the window, breathing the outside air and keeping an eye on the street below.

We waited for him to settle down enough that he could be placed in a permanent home, and eventually, a home came along that was so perfect that even I could not find a reason to refuse them, and he was adopted.

We cried when he left, and the next day, and the day after that, and slowly our routine adjusted back to what it had been before his stay. I did not have to let him out of The Child’s bedroom each morning, or fill a second food dish, although I left his food dish in its place on the kitchen floor, just as I left his crate in my bedroom, empty.

His adopter lifted our spirits by sending daily updates about his adventures, playing with her dog in the rain, chasing tennis balls, sleeping under her bed; at our house, our spirits were gradually lifted by the sight of our cats, no longer afraid to roam, playful again, taking up their spots at the window to watch the birds outside.

It didn’t feel like he really took that much time when he was here, but after he left, I had the unfamiliar sensation of having free time. My To Do list wasn’t actually shorter, but it seemed that way, and gradually, I began to do the things I used to do. I made dinner that didn’t come out of a box from the freezer; I cooked it in something that wasn’t a microwave.

As it happens, I made pork, for no particular reason other than that I like pork chops and hadn’t had any for an absurdly long time; I chose this particular recipe because, as seems to happen so often in my kitchen, I had an absurd amount of apples for reasons that remain mysterious. It required no special trip to the store for the other ingredients – a bit of wine, some cream, some mustard.

It was simple to prepare and I loved the mild, mustardy sauce with the apples and the pork – there are quite a lot of apples involved, especially since The Child didn’t want to eat fruit with meat, so each mouthful had a bit of meat and a lot of apple.

It was heaven, and a nice change from the usual pork chops with a side of apple sauce.

The recipe is (very slightly) adapted from the classic cookbook Simple French Food by Richard Olney.

Pork Chops with Apples

Richard Olney's Pork Chops and Apples in Mustard Sauce
 
Print
Author: Richard Olney, Simple French Food
Ingredients
  • 2 lbs apples, quartered, cored, peeled, and thinly sliced
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 4 pork loin chops, boneless, thick cut
  • salt
  • ¼ cup dry white wine
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ⅓ cup Dijon or country mustard
  • pepper
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
  2. Spread the apples in a buttered baking pan large enough to hold the chops without crowding, and bake for 15 minutes.
  3. While the apples are in the oven, Heat a large, heavy skillet, and brown the chops in some butter over medium-high heat, about 7-8 minutes on each side.
  4. Arrange the chops on top of the apples, and deglaze the skillet with white wine, reducing it by about half. Pour over the chops in the baking dish.
  5. With heat on medium low, warm the cream in the skillet and mix in the mustard, using more or less as you prefer. Season with salt and pepper, and pour over the chops and apples, shaking the baking dish to ensure the sauce is distributed among the apples.
  6. Bake 15 minutes, or until chops are thoroughly cooked, and serve.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // apples, meat, pork

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