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Laurie Colwin’s Mustard Baked Chicken

01.03.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

The first year I attempted gardening was the year I knew, for sure, that I could continue living in my house. The Brazilian man who mows my lawn built two large raised beds, that I joyfully filled with an assortment of nursery plants that did not grow. I planted them too close together, or too early or late in the season, or over- or under-watered them, depending which website I read and which day of the week I read it on.

I learned quite a bit that year, mostly this: It doesn’t matter what website you read or how often you water or what fertilizer you use if the actual problem is slugs.

The second year, I started plants from seedlings, carefully applied slug repellant, discovered the wonders of Neem oil spray, and followed the planting schedule recommended by Seattle Tilth. I  managed to grow even less than the first year, a feat I would not have thought possible. Sections of the beds often seemed to be dry, in spite of regular waterings, and I noticed there seemed to be fewer earthworms, but I could not account for it until I finally removed some despairing pea plants, but could not seem to remove their roots.

No matter how much I dug and pulled, there were more roots, fighting me tenaciously to remain in the raised bed, next to my melancholy zucchini.

I dug in other areas of the beds, and there were roots there, too: tangled masses of them in bone dry soil.

Then I looked a bit to the side, just past the fence, at the three large emerald greens that hide my windows from the street. They don’t know where the fence line is, or at least, their roots don’t – they are growing right up into my beds.

I showed the gardener and he was as surprised as I was, and when he had a day in the fall, he came and trimmed the emerald greens back. This past week, he stopped by again one quiet day, and carefully dug out all of the dirt and roots from the beds, and lay down a barrier, and refilled the boxes.

Gardening doesn’t seem like it should be that hard, and I do have evidence that it isn’t, really. Last summer,  I had the gardener put in an extra garden bed, just for The Child. We put it in an unused spot on the far side of the house, where it was filled with one rhubarb plant for me and several strawberry plants for her, and left it mostly untended. She rejoiced in bowls of fresh juicy berries, and I delighted in big, tart, unnervingly green stalks of rhubarb.

If you get the basic mix right, you can be successful with very little work involved.

I’ve only managed to apply this rule successfully in one other area of endeavor: the kitchen. I received a review copy of Laurie Colwin’s book Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen, which is a delight to read, filled as it is with stories of kitchen disasters and unnerving dinner party offerings (Starry-Gazey Pie, anyone?). I’ve run across Colwin’s name and recipes before, and searched her out – I wanted more.

I discovered, with much sadness, that she died in 1992, at the absurdly young age of 48. I felt like I had lost a friend, and one I’d only just met, at that – the writing is so fresh and effortless, it feels like it could have been written yesterday, in an email, to me and a few other close friends.

Her recipes are a little unnerving for those of us who are in the measure-and-follow-directions cooking crowd: Scarcely paragraphs of instructions, with ingredients listed as you go, and sometimes with no specific quantities. She promises things will work, and since she seems like someone I should trust, I decide to give it a shot with her recipe for Mustard Baked Chicken.

Okay, I looked around the internet for some approximate quantities, which I’ve included below. Who am I kidding? I measure; it’s who I am.

That said, I don’t think I’d need to measure this recipe out a second time, and it’s a recipe I’d definitely make a second time, and a third, and so on. It’s comically easy – mix together some mustard, thyme, and garlic, roll the chicken pieces in it (I used thighs since that’s what I had), and then roll the mustard-coated chicken in bread crumbs or panko.

Then toss it in the oven and ignore it for a good long time. Two hours or more.

Really.

The chicken isn’t dry or burned at the end of all this baking; rather, it is delicious and moist, encased in a flavorful crisp, crisp, crisp and mustardy crust. It’s perfect for a Sunday afternoon, or any time you have time to cook something for a long, but untended, time.

Success, with almost no effort.

The chicken is good for lunch the next day, not as crisp but definitely still tasty.

 

Laurie Colwin's Baked Mustard Chicken

 

Laurie Colwin's Mustard Baked Chicken
 
Print
Prep time
10 mins
Cook time
2 hours
Total time
2 hours 10 mins
 
Author: adapted from Laurie Colwin, Home Cooking
Serves: 4
Ingredients
  • ¾ cup Dijon mustard
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 tbsp fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried)
  • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1 cup panko crumbs
  • 4 chicken thighs
  • 3 tablespoons butter
Instructions
  1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Combine mustard, garlic, thyme, cinnamon, a pinch of salt and ½ tsp black pepper, in a bowl. Place panko crumbs in another bowl.
  3. Working in batches, coat chicken thighs on all sides with mustard mixture, then coat completely with bread crumbs. Arrange in a single layer in a large, shallow baking pan. Dot with butter.
  4. Bake until crust is deep golden brown and crispy, about 2 hours. Serve hot or at room temperature.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, meat, mustard

Buttermilk Pecan Fudge

12.26.2014 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

I had a plan for Christmas. It involved boxes of cookies and treats, delivered to neighbors and shipped off to friends. The family room walls, recently painted, would no longer be bare. The pets would all have their own stockings, filled with treats, and their stockings would match. In short, I would create a very photogenic Christmas.

We did get the bare minimum done: a tree was acquired from the one tree stand I could find that would tie the tree to the top of my car for me. It took about a week to decorate the tree, which was mostly The Child’s doing, although I can take credit for festooning it with lights, not once but twice, and in the process, learning a Christmas lesson about plugging strings of lights in before putting them on the tree. The Child set up the Christmas Village, which looked festive even after the cat Godzillaed through it, sending miniature trees and New England skaters to their near-deaths on the family room carpet; thankfully, New Englanders are a hardy bunch. I finally replaced the photo frame stocking hangers I bought with The Departed for our first Christmas together, with a vow to update the photos each year as the kids got older, but somehow never did.

The Child rescued the photos of now-departed pets from them as I set out new stocking holders that spell out PEACE: a timeless message,  one that requires no annual update.

I never quite got to the matching pet Christmas stockings and boxes of treats. I did binge-listen to the Serial podcast and make possibly the best cranberry sauce I’ve ever made, so it was holiday time spent well, if slightly less than traditionally.

For Christmas Day itself, I planned carefully, getting everything ready and wrapped beforehand. I’d get up before The Child and bake a New England Spider Cake, the scent of which would rouse her from her bed; we’d open gifts together by the twinkle of the tree.

I did get up before her; the Red Dog woke me up several times during the night. Christmas began with a nice hot cup of coffee waiting patiently on the counter while I discovered why he was so agitated all night. The noise of the carpet cleaner roused The Child. We did open gifts to a twinkling tree, but Christmas breakfast consisted of bacon and eggs. Neither of us had the patience or energy to make – and wait for – Spider Cake.

Nobody was disappointed.

There were treats around anyway, of course. The Child arranged some Sour Gummy Stars for my stocking, and Santa made sure her favorite chocolates found their way into her stocking. And a few days before Christmas, I made fudge. I think I meant to put it into gift boxes.

I’ve never made fudge of any sort before, and to be honest, I’ve never really been a fan, having been subjected too often to fudge that tastes of gritty chocolate or is overly sweet or comes in pieces that are much too large, like those big slabs you order by the quarter-pound on some stores. But I ran across this recipe a while ago on Bon Appetit and saved it, because it struck me that a bit of buttermilk tang might be the antidote to the ills of inferior fudge.

It was, and then some. The recipe produced a delicious, slightly tart, delightfully nutty fudge. I used a pan a bit larger than the one called for in the recipe, which produced a thinner fudge that I cut into approximate one-inch squares – a perfect little sweet treat. Just a bite, or maybe two, because that’s all you need when you’re perfectly satisfied.

Buttermilk Pecan Fudge

Buttermilk Pecan Fudge
 
Print
Author: adapted slightly from Alison Roman, Bon Appetit
Ingredients
  • 1 cup pecans
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • 1 tbsp honey
  • ⅛ teaspoon salt
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 9x9” pan with parchment paper.
  2. Toast pecans on a rimmed baking sheet, until fragrant and slightly darkened in color, 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop.
  3. Heat sugar, buttermilk, butter, honey, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until butter and sugar are melted, about 3 minutes. Fit saucepan with thermometer, bring mixture to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until thermometer registers 238° (mixture will be pale golden), 6–8 minutes.
  4. Pour the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer, and beat with the paddle attachment on medium speed until cool and thickened, 8-10 minutes. It will be stiff and matte. Fold in the pecans.
  5. Scrape fudge into the prepared pan and smooth it. Let sit at least an hour, then cut into one-inch squares.
Notes
The original recipe uses a 9x5 inch loaf pan, which would result in thicker pieces.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // buttermilk, candy, pecans

Old Witch’s Magic Nut Cake

12.21.2014 by J. Doe // 6 Comments

I don’t really remember much of my mother’s cooking, which is odd because it’s what I grew up eating. We could not afford to eat out much; even McDonald’s was a treat. She had a few things I liked, like toad-in-the-hole, and a chicken in hoisin recipe that she found in the paper and was her staple for guests. Then there were the other things, like eggplant parmesan, that she declared healthy and left me with a lifelong aversion to eggplant.

When you hear the word eggplant, you might think, Delicious, but the word that comes to my mind is Slimy.

My father had a similar experience with my mother’s food; the story he likes to tell is about the first cheeseburger she cooked for him, which involved pouring a can of undiluted cheese soup over a patty. I’ve not seen anyone make a cheeseburger that way, before or since, he’ll say.

Holiday cooking was a source of alarm. At my grandmother’s house, it involved popcorn balls – the recipe for which I still wish I had – and cookies, and one magical year, she produced three kinds of pie when I could not decide which kind I wanted most – apple, pumpkin, or mince. My mother did not have a standard repertoire, and would attempt things she found in the paper, with mixed success. When I was in second or third grade, she decided we would make a gingerbread house, which was very exciting until the sugar mortar refused to hold the walls together, and the resulting frustration led to a screaming match, followed by tears, with no pretty candy-clad house at the end.

Still, my mother would occasionally stumble onto a recipe that worked and when she did, she stuck with it, doggedly, for years. For the holidays, it was Old Witch’s Magic Nut Cake, which came from the back of one of my books, Old Witch and the Polka Dot Ribbon. The first time she made it, she knew it was a winner, and every year that followed, she made loaves all through the fall, giving them as gifts to teachers and crossing guards and offerings to holiday potlucks.

I didn’t have many holiday recipes, so when I reached my teens and started babysitting, I made loaves of it too, and gave it to the families I babysat for, who all pronounced it delicious. One recipient told me she had discovered it was incredibly good spread with soft cream cheese, and I was surprised to realize the original recipe calls for a cream cheese frosting. My mother never made it and neither have I: the cake is perfectly moist, spicy, and nutty, and doesn’t need anything else. Still, if you wanted to make it into a cake, you could just pour the batter into the right size pan and top it with your favorite cream cheese frosting – nothing too sweet!

Or do like I do and have a piping hot piece with a bit of salted butter – pure winter decadence.

I usually make the bread in two loaf pans, but you can of course make smaller gift loaves if you like. Be very careful to check with a toothpick, rather than use the stated times – the cake is finished when a toothpick comes out clean, which may correspond to the expected baking time, but more often than not, doesn’t.

Old Witch's Magic Nut Cake

Old Witch's Magic Nut Cake
 
Print
Author: adapted from Wende and Harry Devlin, Old Witch and the Polka Dot Ribbon
Ingredients
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 15-ounce can pumpkin
  • ¾ cup vegetable oil
  • ½ cup water
  • 2½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2¼ cups sugar
  • 1½ tsp baking soda
  • 1¼ tsp salt
  • ¾ tsp nutmeg
  • ¾ tsp cinnamon
  • 1 cup golden raisins
  • 1 cup chopped walnuts
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil two loaf pans and set aside.
  2. Beat together wet ingredients in a bowl. In a second bowl, mix together dry ingredients. Combine the two mixtures, then mix in raisins and nuts.
  3. Pour batter into loaf pans, and bake for an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes. Cake is done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  4. Let loaves cool for 15-20 minutes in the pans, then remove and finish cooling on a rack.
  5. If desired, top with your favorite cream cheese frosting and additional chopped walnuts.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, pumpkin

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