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Fruity Pebble Cookies

02.07.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When I first moved to Seattle, it was July. I stayed with a friend on the Peninsula for two months, commuting by boat to downtown Seattle beneath glorious clear skies. The weather stayed like that through the fall – never too hot, never too cold, and so little rain that I wondered how the city had earned its reputation.

I mentioned this at my office Christmas party in early December, and my coworker replied, wait until February.

I laughed, and he laughed.

By February, I was suicidal.

People in New York City in August like to says this whenever someone complains about the heat: It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity. I never said that, because in the first place, everyone says that so there’s really no point in repeating it, and in the second place, it’s both.

And so it is in Seattle in February: It’s not the rain, or the darkness, it’s both.

Every year, by the time February rolls around, I am ready to kill someone, and anyone will do.

It’s the little bright spots that see me through. When the sun comes out, even briefly, everyone who possibly can go outside, does. They beam with delight, they are happy to see you, and the streets are full of people either walking around puddles or splashing through them, and saying, isn’t it great? The sun came out!

It happens just often enough to keep me out of jail, but not enough to keep me from being a little too grumpy, a little too often.

I bake a lot this time of year. It’s what I do when I’m trapped indoors and in need of a little pick-me-up.

After my successful effort with English Muffin Bread, I thought it would be cool to make actual English muffins, so I started researching recipes and, in the way of the internet, discovered there was such a thing as Fruity Pebble Cookies. I have no idea how I got from English muffins to Fruity Pebbles, although technically, they’re both breakfast foods, so presumably that’s the connection.

My mother would beg to differ, of course. She bought me a box of sugary cereal exactly once – it was a box of Trix, and I had the flu and could barely taste them, but savored every sugary morsel like the manna from heaven it was.

My house now is full of rebellious sugary cereal, yet I had no idea I could bake with it. Cookies, no less: Little color-flecked pick-me-ups for grim, grey days. They’re not an indulgence, they’re a necessity.

You want to try these cookies. It’s okay if you don’t live in Seattle, or it isn’t raining where you are. I won’t tell.

Even the instructions of this recipe will make your inner child happy: They actually tell you to put a tablespoon of sugar onto two cups of Fruity Pebbles.

I will venture there aren’t many times in life when a college-educated, gainfully employed person will tell you to do this. Savor the moment, along with all that sugar.

The recipe is from Christina Tosi’s  Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook, which moves sugary breakfast cereal to its rightful place on the menu – dessert (another recipe included in the book is Cereal Milk Ice Cream and yes, it’s on my to-do list for warmer weather). Originally, the recipe also included mini-marshmallows, and I bought a bag of them, but then balked at the last minute. If you want to include them, add 1 and 1/4 cups right after you blend in the Fruity Pebble crunch.

The cookies were fun to make and smelled outrageously good as they baked. It’s a ton of sugar, but interestingly, even though the cookies are incredibly sweet, it is not in that obnoxious way – the sweetness seems to be tempered a bit, possibly by the additional of milk powder to the cereal.

The cookies spread a lot when baking, so you really do want to space them out well on the cookie sheets. You also really do want to let them cool on the cookie sheets for five minutes – they are incredibly fragile right after being taken out of the oven.

The Child liked these right after they cooled off enough to taste. The next day, I sent some in her lunch, and she proclaimed they were now Too Hard to Eat with Braces. I didn’t find them hard, but then I don’t have braces.

I put them in the cookie jar, where they kept nicely for a week, but did seem to disappear a little faster than I was eating them.

 

Fruity Pebble Cookies

Fruity Pebble Cookies
 
Print
Author: adapted from Christina Tosi, Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook
Ingredients
fruity pebble crunch
  • 2½ cups of fruity pebbles
  • ¼ cup of milk powder
  • 1 tbsp of sugar
  • ¼ tsp of kosher salt
  • 6 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
cookies
  • 16 tbsp (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1¼ granulated sugar
  • ⅔ cup light brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • ½ tsp pure vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups flour
  • ½ tsp baking powder
  • ¼ tsp baking soda
  • 1¼ tsp kosher salt
  • 3 cups fruity pebble crunch
Instructions
Make the crunch:
  1. Preheat oven to 275˚F.
  2. Pour the fruity pebbles in a medium bowl. Add the milk powder, sugar and salt and toss to mix. Add the butter and toss well to coat. Some small clusters may form and that's fine.
  3. Spread the cereal on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes, until toasted.
  4. Cool completely.
Make the cookie dough.
  1. Line a baking sheet which with parchment paper. Combine butter and sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream together on medium-high for 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the egg and vanilla, and beat on high for 7-8 minutes.
  2. Reduce mixer speed to low and add flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than one minute. Do not overmix.
  3. Still on low speed, mix in the fruity pebble crunch just until incorporated.
  4. Scoop out the dough in rounded tablespoons onto the prepared pan. Wrap entire sheet in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to one week.
Bake the cookies:
  1. Preheat oven to 350˚F.
  2. Arrange the chilled dough at least 4 inches apart on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bake for 10-13 minutes, until golden.
  3. Cool the cookies for five minutes on the sheet pans, then transfer to wire racks to finish cooling. (You can also just cool them completely on the pan - just don't move them too fast, or they'll break.)
Notes
The original recipe calls for 1¼ cups of mini marshmallows. If you want to include them, add them to the dough right after the Fruity Pebble Crunch.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // cereal, cookies

English Muffin Bread

01.19.2015 by J. Doe // 3 Comments

I was looking forward to the New Year; last year didn’t go well, yet even so, managed to deteriorate further at the end. I hoped a new year would be a clean start, but only two weeks into the year, it doesn’t seem to be headed in the right direction: Too much work, too much rain, a call from the principal.

I have lots of woes, none of them interesting in the slightest.

My coworker – the one who keeps me sane – isn’t having a good time either. This past week, his teenage daughter got her driver’s license on Monday morning; Monday afternoon, she got pulled over and cited for the second-worst violation one can commit where they live. No one was hit or injured, but she will likely lose her license, and as for my coworker, well, his car insurance is likely going to increase.

I’m not going to win Father of the Year, he tells me.

No, probably not, but he does win bragging rights: His year is off to The Worst Start of anyone either of us knows.

I’m not sure those are bragging rights I want, but I still feel like I lost out somehow.

It has to get better. Cooped up indoors, listening to rain drum against the roof, I root around the refrigerator and find some oranges that I bought to make something or other, so I spend a Saturday afternoon making the Orange and Campari Marmalade recipe from Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food, which turned out nicely, somewhat chunky and a bit bitter, which I like.

I woke up on Sunday wanting English muffins to slather with butter and marmalade, and I had none, nor any motivation to leave the house in the still-pounding rain to buy them. No, I would make something suitable for my lovely marmalade instead.

I had previously tried an English muffin bread recipe from Simply Classic, a Seattle Junior League cookbook I picked up somewhere, and it didn’t go well. The recipe seemed to call for too much flour, so the bread was a bit more dense than I would have liked. But it struck me as a good idea, so I researched it a bit, and found a Cook’s Country recipe that appeared on the Lottie + Doof blog, which has yet to let me down.

I followed the instructions to the letter, and the dough refused to rise. It just sat there glaring at me from the loaf pan in the oven. When I finally gave up and turned the oven off, I heard it laugh.

Since I still had a craving and just enough bread flour left for one last attempt, I researched a bit, and learned that bread does not rise well when it is too dry, a problem I encountered with both recipes. So, for my final effort, I used the Cook’s Country/Lottie+Doof recipe again, but heated up extra milk, just in case the dough became dry.

In the end, I didn’t use it, because I tried mixing it up a bit differently. I mixed four cups of flour to the remaining dry ingredients, but added the fifth cup of flour only after the milk had been thoroughly mixed in. The last cup was added in stages, with more flour only added in once the last addition was fully incorporated. I didn’t use any extra milk, and the dough was plenty moist, and rose, and even bubbled a bit, which you’d expect from a well-behaved English muffin dough.

This dough baked into beautifully browned loaves that sliced and toasted perfectly, even though I couldn’t wait an hour for it to cool down like I was supposed to. I started baking at nine in the morning and didn’t have bread until 1:30, which in my world is waiting quite long enough already, thank you.

It was lovely with marmalade. The Child sliced off a piece and ate it – untoasted, heresy! – with the last of the Rhubarb-Strawberry Jam I made last summer; she pronounced it delightful. It is fortunate the recipe makes two loaves, because although a loaf will keep on your counter for several days, it surely won’t last that long.

English Muffin Bread

English Muffin Bread
 
Print
Prep time
1 hour 15 mins
Cook time
30 mins
Total time
1 hour 45 mins
 
Author: adapted from Cook's Country/Lottie + Doof
Ingredients
  • Cornmeal
  • 5 cups bread flour, sifted
  • 4½ tsp instant yeast
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 3 cups milk, scalded
Instructions
  1. Grease two 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pans and dust with cornmeal. Combine the four cups of the bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, and baking soda in large bowl. Stir in the hot milk until thoroughly combined. Add in the final cup of flour in three additions, only adding more flour as each addition is fully incorporated.
  2. Cover dough with greased plastic wrap and let rise in warm place for 30 minutes, or until dough has doubled in size.
  3. Divide the dough between the two prepared pans, pushing into corners as needed. Cover pans with greased plastic, set them in a warm place, and let rise for 30 minutes, until dough is about at the top rim of the pans.
  4. Heat oven to 375°F, remove plastic, and place pans in oven. Bake until bread is nicely browned and smells delicious, about 30 minutes. Remove bread from pans and cool on wire racks, about an hour, then slice, toast, and serve.
Notes
The recipe calls for whole milk, but I used 2% since that's what I keep on hand. I do think while would be better here.

A note on loaf pans: You may have 9x5 loaf pans, which are not the same as those called for in this recipe. It is fine to use them, but realize that your bread will not rise as high if you do.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, bread

Buvette’s Brandade De Morue

01.12.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

At the beginning of The Child’s second year of middle school, she unfriended her best friends from the first year, and vice versa; at the beginning of her third year of middle school, she unfriended the group that had replaced the first girls, and was welcomed back to her original table in the lunch room.

I had thankfully been warned by other parents, of older girls, that all of this might happen, so even if none of the social drama made sense to me, I at least was able to roll with it, with a little help from the school’s guidance counselor.

So it was that I found myself sitting in a Starbucks over Christmas break, having coffee with a mom I had barely seen for a year, while our teen daughters giggled and checked their phones at a table next to us, warming themselves after some mitten-free ice skating.

More invitations arrive rapidly, and they are welcomed and accepted: An evening with the moms is infinitely preferable to an evening spent wondering why I’ve received not one reply to any messages I’ve sent on OKCupid. I’m a little surprised by that, but when I wonder out loud, one of the moms suggests I’m on the wrong site. A friend of mine told me all the sites have their own personalities, she says, and she’ll get dozens of messages on one and none on another.

Her comments make sense, but the context does not: I’ve never talked about online dating in a Mom gathering before, unless we are discussing How To Keep Our Daughters Safe From The Internet, which is a rather frequent topic among parents of teenage girls. But suddenly, I am being offered advice, from another mom, and I’m not getting any I Pity The Single Mom undercurrent with the remark, either.

Looking around the room, it makes more sense. There are seven moms, two of us fully divorced, two are separated and nearly divorced, and of the remaining three, one mentions the understanding she has come to that allows her marriage – of a sort – to continue, maybe. I spend a half hour discussing the ugly divorce of a mutual acquaintance with one of the two happily marrieds.

There is nothing happy or satisfying about it, but I am no longer on the sidelines of the moms; I am not only part of the majority, I’ve been divorced so long and, with two divorces under my belt, so frequently, that I’m actually an elder statesman in the group. I offer advice and empathy and maybe even a bit of hope that where they are now is a place they are just visiting.

I visited New York two summers ago, and the more infrequent my visits, the more I realize I am no longer at home there. I don’t know the places to go or remember how to get there anymore, and each trip finds me with fewer people I need to see. It feels sad, but at the same time, it leaves me with more time for the people with whom the ties remain strong, even though it’s been fifteen years since we saw each other on a regular basis. One such dinner – with a restauranteur friend – lingers for hours over small plates at Buvette.

I only remember one of those plates, partly because my friend did most of the ordering, but partly because I was so enthralled with it I kept wishing I could have it again. It was a strange sort of fish paste, with a sharp bite and smooth texture that went perfectly with some simple grilled bread and a glass of wine. It was the sort of thing I never would have ordered for myself; it was a revelation.

I was thrilled when the cookbook – Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food – was published, and even more thrilled to discover it included the recipe for this miraculous fish paste.

As if that wasn’t enough, the dish had a name, and it wasn’t fish paste.

Brandade de Morue. Elegant, no?

This is one of those things that you have to plan ahead: Although salt cod was once a dietary staple, these days, it’s pretty hard to find, and comes at a price when you do. (I found it in the freezer section of our local organic supermarket.) The good news is that the recipe doesn’t actually use that much, and salt cod keeps for quite a long time in the freezer.

You will have to soak the fish for three days before you make the recipe, so you need to allow time for that, too.

After that, though, there is nothing hard or fussy about it: chop, simmer, and blend. The recipe instructions said to beat the fish and potato mixture until smooth with a wooden spoon, which sounds very authentic but didn’t actually work for me, but an immersion blender did the job.

It tasted exactly as I remembered, fishy and garlicky and smooth and sensual. The Child wanted no part of it, but the moms seemed to enjoy it very much, especially with a topping of capers – which gives a very different but also very delightful effect.

Brandade de Morue

Buvette's Brandade De Morue
 
Print
Author: adapted from Jody Williams, Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food
Ingredients
  • ¼ lb salt cod, skin removed
  • ½ cup milk
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 large Idaho potato, peeled and chopped
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • Salt
  • Toasted bread or crackers for serving
Instructions
  1. Soak the salt cod in a bowl of water in the refrigerator for three days, changing water several times. Drain and dry the fish and cut into small pieces.
  2. Combine the milk, cream, garlic and potato in a pot and simmer over medium heat until the potato is tender, about 15 minutes. Add the fish and continue cooking until it too is tender, about 15 minutes more.
  3. Remove and reserve liquid, up to a cup. (You may not have much liquid, so simply remove the excess with a spoon and set it aside). Stir the potato, garlic, and fish with a spoon, adding the olive oil in a thin stream, until the mixture is almost smooth. If mixture seems too thick, add back some of the cooking liquid as needed. (If you are having difficulty breaking up the pieces of fish, use an immersion blender to complete this step.)
  4. Serve warm with toasted bread or crackers; a dish of capers alongside are a wonderful twist.
Notes
The cookbook says the recipe serves four, which is probably true if you're serving it small-plate style. If you're putting it out with a table of party food, it serves a lot more.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // salt cod, snack

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