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Deborah Madison’s Brussels Sprouts and Smoky Onions on Cheese Toast

03.27.2015 by J. Doe // 2 Comments

I’ve been playing around on Tinder lately. If you’re not familiar with it, it’s a dating app that distills online dating to its essence: Look at a picture of a potential match, swipe the picture left for no, right for yes. If they swiped right for your picture too, you can communicate with each other. It’s entertaining, in a way: it requires very little effort – less effort than Candy Crush, which is the other app I use when I have time to kill.

I’m having better luck advancing levels on Candy Crush than I am in advancing my love life.

The problem with something that requires so little effort, of course, is that most people put very little effort in. In my zip code, fully half of my prospective matches – no, I didn’t count – have no text on their profiles at all.

Half of the available men in my area have absolutely nothing to say for themselves.

Of the half that do have something to say, often it goes a little like this: I like hanging out with the guys, working out, and watching sports. This is usually followed by some sort of statement of tribal allegiance (Go Hawks and/or Dawgs and/or Cougs!). I wonder where it is a woman fits into this equation, but I already know the answer.

Someone’s got to make the nachos.

The photographs in their profiles are usually taken at games, where they sport team logo gear, or at bars or parties, where they hold frosty mugs aloft, but either way they are surrounded by people and it is frequently difficult to determine which one I should be looking at. Some of them just cut to the chase, and use a team logo as their profile pic.

Guys, if you actually were Seahawks, you wouldn’t be on Tinder.

Some of them post pictures of their rides – usually motorcycles or muscle cars – and the photos may or may not have a person in them.

Guys, if I needed a new vehicle, I’d go to a car dealer.

Fatigue has set in, but I swipe onward: Genghis Khan without his horde, left. A kilt-wearing crossbow-toter with no face, left. Teddy Ruxpin at a urinal holding a beer, I give up.

I don’t enjoy spending my time this way, so even when a guy appears – not offering any information and wanting to get together ASAP – I smell hookup, and worse, I just can’t muster up any enthusiasm in spite of his GQ-worthy profile picture. I spend my free time going to brunch or the movies with friends, or at home, watching The Sopranos (who feel like friends, so many times have I re-watched the series), or maybe catching up on Game of Thrones (who I hope aren’t friends, though maybe that’s better than having them as enemies? hard to say). I take long walks with The Red Dog and Miss Liberty, a rescue dog I am fostering.

All in all, I find the time passes pleasantly this way. I make dinner for two, or often, just myself and when it’s the latter, I make what I want, exactly how I want it. This is how I ended up discovering Deborah Madison’s lovely recipe for Brussels sprouts – I had some of everything it called for, and nobody to tell me they don’t like Brussels sprouts, so I made it one evening as Tony Soprano had someone whacked in the background. Nobody was killed making this recipe, though I did burn a finger getting the toasts out of the oven.

It’s wonderfully simple, and takes pan-roasted Brussels sprouts off the side of the plate – where they don’t belong – and puts them center stage. If you’re not already pan-roasting your Brussels sprouts, you’re really missing out – the sprouts lose all the bitterness and become sweet and flavorful as they caramelize. I usually just toss them in the pan with some olive oil and salt, or maybe truffle oil if I’m feeling extravagant. But Deborah Madison takes it up a notch, adding onions and smoked paprika, which elevate the whole dish to heights I had not thought possible.

I redid this recipe a tiny bit: In Madison’s original, the Brussels sprouts are boiled briefly, then added to the onions. But I saw no reason for the extra step, since pan-roasting Brussels sprouts is the way to get the best flavor out of them, and if the onions caramelize a bit along the way, so much the better. So using this method, I’ve made the dish several times, each time better than the last.

The original recipe also calls for sharp cheddar cheese, which would be fine. I use Beecher’s cheese, which is local to Seattle, delicious, and can be purchased in large quantities at my neighborhood Costco. Another blogger adapted this recipe somewhat and used gruyere, which would also be lovely. It’s your dinner: Use whatever cheese you please.

I found the original recipe on Food & Wine; I am not sure which of Madison’s cookbooks it is from. I’ve already checked one of her books out of the library, so hopefully I’ll know soon.

Brussels Sprouts and Smoky Onions on Cheddar Toasts

Deborah Madison's Brussels Sprouts and Smoky Onions on Cheese Toast
 
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Author: Sprung At Last
Ingredients
  • 1 lb brussels sprouts, thinly sliced
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large onion, finely diced
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 4 slices of bread, toasted
  • 4 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, thinly sliced
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 5 minutes. Add the paprika, cover and continue cooking another minute.
  3. Add the brussels sprouts to the skillet and cook, stirring only to prevent scorching, until tender throughout and browned in spots, about 10-15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  4. Arrange the toasts on a baking sheet and top with the cheddar. Bake for 2 minutes, until the cheese is melted; mound the brussels sprouts and onions on top and serve.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // brussels sprouts, cheese, vegetarian

Za’atar Roast Chicken

03.21.2015 by J. Doe // 1 Comment

So many food blogs seem to have a theme: Baking, healthy eating, gluten-free, paleo, food on a budget. And then there’s this blog: Dating, divorce, and what I cooked when I discovered I’d bought too much of something. Though the three elements don’t seem to add up to a unified theme, they actually do.

This is what someone did when things didn’t go as expected – in life, and in the kitchen.

A while back, I made Yotam Ottolenghi’s Slow-Cooked Chick Peas on Toast recipe, which called for za’atar, something I’d never heard of and certainly didn’t have.  It wasn’t at my usual supermarket, either.  To avoid a lengthy hunt, I ordered it from Amazon. If I’d found it in a store, I probably would have grabbed whatever jar had the prettiest label or the best price relative to the other jars on the shelf. Online shopping is a little different, though: It’s all about price plus shipping cost, and more to the point, getting the purchase to the point where there is no shipping cost. This usually entails getting the price of the item above a certain amount; once that happens, you can kick back and say, instead of paying for shipping, I got more stuff.

This is how I ended up with a pound of za’atar, when what I needed was a pinch of za’atar, for a recipe that I ended up omitting za’atar from anyway.

If I made Slow-Roasted Chick Peas on Toast every day for a year, even if I used a generous pinch of za’atar, I’m pretty sure I would still have too much.

I saw a recipe in another Ottolenghi cookbook for Roast Chicken with Za’atar, which sounds awfully good, but that recipe also calls for sumac, and given my current za’atar predicament, I’m reluctant to add another jar of infrequently used spice to my collection. Then I located a recipe on Sunset that sounded good, didn’t require any additional trips to the store, and as an added bonus, called for a full quarter-cup of za’atar.

Suddenly, there’s a chance that all this za’atar will get used, rather than expire in my pantry. I’m in.

I almost walked away from the recipe: Users who left ratings gave it a whopping one star our of five – an inauspicious sign. When I read the reviews, though, it turned out there was only one, left by someone  who had clearly not read the recipe. The complaint was this: if you cook the chicken at 475 degrees as directed, the coating would scorch and smell up your house.

I don’t disagree. The oil would smoke and smell foul if you did it that way, a fact the recipe author also notes when directing the user to roast the chicken at 400 degrees if it is coated with the oil-and-spice mixture.

Armed with this knowledge, I tried the recipe, and it worked.

In fact, it didn’t just work – it was delicious, and made my house smell like yum. I ended up cooking the bird a bit longer than called for – about an hour and a half – due to its large size. I also turned it over a couple of times during the roasting, to let the skin get crispy all over and help the bird stay moist (it’s a technique I learned from an Alice Waters recipe that always results in a delicious chicken).

I tossed in some potatoes towards the end, and let them soak up all the delicious accumulated juices.

Superb.

I hope to find some more ways to use up the za’atar, but if I end up making this chicken a dozen more times, it won’t be a hardship.

Zaatar Roast Chicken

Za'atar Roast Chicken
 
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Author: adapted from Sunset Magazine
Ingredients
  • ¼ cup zaatar
  • 2½ tbsp olive oil
  • 2½ tbsp lemon juice
  • 2½ tsp minced garlic
  • ¾ tsp pepper
  • 1 tsp salt
  • A roasting chicken
Instructions
  1. Whisk together zaatar, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper.
  2. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Smear the paste all over the outside of the chicken, and under the skin where you can. Use it all up! Let chicken sit at room temperature for a half hour.
  3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
  4. Roast chicken uncovered, breast side up, for 20 minutes, then flip it over so the breast side is down for the next 20 minutes. Then flip chicken a final time, so that the breast side is up again. Roast until the skin is crispy and the bird registers 160 on a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast.
  5. Let chicken stand 10-15 minutes, then carve and serve.
Notes
I used a 5-lb chicken for this recipe, roasted for 1.5 hours. For the last half hour, I added small yellow potatoes to the pan, which absorbed some of the spices and juices as they roasted.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, meat, za'atar

Macrina Bakery’s Rocket Muffins

03.05.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

For the past few summers, The Child and I have been tormented by unwanted guests. Not the rats that occasionally move into the crawl space, silent and unseen. Not the moles, which are visually destructive, but silent, and at least provide some marginal comic relief, in the form of neighbors doing Bill Murray In Caddyshack impressions.

The bees, on the other hand, we can hear, and they’re loud: They buzz aggressively on the other side of my office wall, and The Child’s bedroom wall.

Last summer, I hired a bee guy, who couldn’t locate them easily, but based on an inspection of the outside of the house, informed me that my noisy neighbors were “probably” mud daubers. They are tiny and harmless wasps, he said. Probably coming in through the vent screens. I suggest you wait until winter, when they go dormant, and replace the screens.

He took my check and was on his way.

With winter almost over – at least in Seattle – my thoughts turned to Spring, and I called my handyman, who stopped by and inspected the crawl space next to my office, and the one next to The Child’s room, and then the attic area; he found nothing. He moved his ladder outside, and climbed onto the garage roof, and inspected the wall. Eventually he climbed down, and said he’d found two warped siding boards: The gaps are how the bees were getting in, he said. Your screens are fine.

Then he handed me his phone, to show me the pictures he’d taken of the furnace vent, specifically, the holes that had rusted out of it. He went into the attic again, and came back with more pictures: more rusty holes. I stare at the pictures like the inadequately knowledgeable homeowner I am.

Those holes will vent carbon monoxide into your attic, he tells me.

I listened to the sound of the mud dauber wasps in my wall all summer, several years in a row, and they frightened me, but could never have hurt me. It would seem I owe them a debt of gratitude, since they led to the discovery of a very real danger that I could have neither seen nor heard. I am grateful to the wasps, as I stand on a ladder, trying to help the handyman loosen rusted pieces of vent pipe. I am grateful to the wasps as I make a note on the grocery list to replace the batteries in the smoke detectors, including the one that kept going off, with no obvious cause, a year or so ago.

I am grateful to the wasps as the handyman nails down the siding, closing off their entrance to my wall.

When the handyman leaves, I lock the back gate after him, and notice that my rhubarb is coming in, and not just a little. I’m absurdly happy: The sun is shining, The Child and I aren’t going to die in our sleep, and there will be rhubarb, soon. Spring is coming; it’s almost here.

There isn’t much in the way of in-season produce that I actually want to eat at the stores, but late last summer I received a small bag of Oregon hazelnuts as a gift, and thought that now would be a good time to use them. I wanted cookies and cakes but since I also had yet another mushy banana to use up – just one this time – I chose a recipe from the Macrina Bakery & Cafe Cookbook that included hazelnuts, a ripe banana, and other things I already had on hand: carrots, molasses. The ingredient list sounded like a healthy way to start a day, and the name – Rocket Muffins – suggested they’d kick-start me with energy.

One thing I didn’t have on hand was whole wheat flour, and since I was feeling kind of lazy, and thus in need of a muffin to kick-start my energy level, I swapped in some dark rye flour to see what would happen. The original recipe also calls for adding a dollop of jam to the top of each muffin during baking, which I skipped entirely, figuring I’d rather add whatever flavor jam I felt like eating at the time I ate each muffin.

I don’t know how these are supposed to taste, and to be honest, when they first came out of the oven, they reminded me of the supposedly healthy “bread” that was the bane of my 1970s school lunches. A liberal dose of melting salted butter did not help matters much.

I set the muffins aside, but vowed I would finish them – all of them – no matter how much jam it took.

The next morning, I was running late, so I grabbed one of the muffins, and ate it at my desk as I began work: No jam, no butter.

It was stupendous.

It’s hard to appreciate a muffin that isn’t sweet, when muffins, for the most part these days, are simply small cakes pretending to be muffins. But when you stop expecting something to be sweet, and when there is no sweetness to overwhelm the flavors, well, you can really taste them. The delicious crunchy, nutty hazelnut was shown off superbly by the earthy rye and molasses; the buttermilk probably accounts for the muffins’ ethereal lightness.

They don’t need jam or butter or to be toasted or anything, except to be eaten.

And the best part: The Child doesn’t like them, so I get them all to myself.

Rocket Muffin

Macrina Bakery's Rocket Muffins
 
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Author: adapted from Leslie Mackie, Macrina Bakery Cookbook
Ingredients
  • ¾ cup hazelnuts, toasted, chopped
  • ¾ cup all purpose flour
  • ¾ cup dark rye flour
  • 2 tbsp light brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp baking powder
  • 2½ tsp baking soda
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1½ cup rolled oats
  • 3 medium carrots, grated
  • 1 small, ripe banana, mashed or pureed
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ cup vegetable oil
  • ½ cup molasses
  • ½ cup buttermilk
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350F. Spread hazelnuts out on a baking sheet and roast until they're golden brown and fragrant (about 15 minutes). Cool slightly and remove the skins by rubbing nuts together in a clean dish towel. Chop coarsely and set aside.
  2. Whisk the flours, brown sugar, baking powder and soda, and salt together in a large bowl. Add the oats, nuts, and carrots; toss together with a spoon or your hands until the carrots are well coated with flour.
  3. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Whisk in the banana, oil, molasses, and buttermilk until thoroughly combined.
  4. Add the liquid mixture to the dry mixture, stirring with a fork until the batter just starts to come together.
  5. Spoon the batter into a paper liners in a muffin tin, filling the cups to the top. Bake until the muffins are deep brown and spring back when pressed lightly with a finger, 15-20 minutes. Cool on racks.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // baking, bananas, buttermilk, carrots, hazelnuts, muffins, rye

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